DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?
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Griff turbo LFX NA build

 
Old 04-19-2019, 09:21 AM
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Baller and thanks for posting up all the info!
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Old 04-19-2019, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by LukeG View Post
Baller and thanks for posting up all the info!
When you get ready to order yours, and we all know you will, let me know LukeG. I'll get you in touch with the right guy! ;-)

Last edited by griff; 04-19-2019 at 01:12 PM.
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Old 04-19-2019, 01:13 PM
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Very curious about your feedback on the oil-less turbo. I haven't really heard of them before your post and was looking into it. I've been debating a dual front mount setup with GT2560's. The exhaust flanges/mounts seems like they would be easy to machine and set it up like the LF4. I've got way more room than you since it is an exocet. What are your thoughts on that too?
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Old 04-19-2019, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by LukeG View Post
Very curious about your feedback on the oil-less turbo. I haven't really heard of them before your post and was looking into it. I've been debating a dual front mount setup with GT2560's. The exhaust flanges/mounts seems like they would be easy to machine and set it up like the LF4. I've got way more room than you since it is an exocet. What are your thoughts on that too?
If I had the room I would have 100% gone with a SC and a crank mount at that. A twin turbo setup would be fun as hell but I'm not sure I would go that route if I planned to track the thing. I've been in a few TT cars and the transition to boost is generally too much too soon which makes the car a hand full coming out of corners and on long sweepers. I'm sure you could make it manageable with a really good boost controller though. I though for sure the LFX was going to be a pain in the *** and fight me the whole way on the tuning side of things but the motor actually seems to love a little boost. Guessing that is why they decided to use it in the ATS V. I think if you decide to TT yours, I would for sure change out the rods and pistons to LF4 hardware because the prices are really pretty damn affordable from the dealer.

Left Pistons : 12641602 - Cost: $66.70 Trade: $90.78
Right Pistons: 12641603 - Cost: $66.70 Trade: $90.78
LF4 Ti Rods: 12652977 - Cost $370.24/e Trade: $504.03/e
LF3 Steel Rods:12641607 - Cost $27.38/e Trade $37.27
LF4 Crank: 12653000 - Cost $501.64 Trade: $682.73

FWIW, The LF4 & LF3 use the same pistons/crank, and the only differences between an LF3 is the titanium rods in the LF4,
and the LF4 turbos use a specific turbine wheel that is very light, but they are otherwise identical housings and compressors.
They use the same ECM, heads, cams, pump etc.

The LF4 is just 2 different PN's and a different tune to run higher boost.



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Old 04-19-2019, 01:37 PM
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Interesting, thanks for the info! Very curious to see what Ryan has up his sleeve, but from what I have seen the Overkill supercharger kit seems like a great piece of hardware, albeit expensive. I had plans to go E85, but there are only two gas stations in Austin that carry it and the closest is 30 minutes away from me. If you ever make it to Austin please hit me up. Would love to chat more.

How are the Vr1's holding up? I had traction issues at 250whp, so ended up going to RC1's in the hopes that I can put the power down. What rear gears are you running?
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Old 04-19-2019, 01:49 PM
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I am running a LSD 3:23. Damn thing was HARD to find too in Colorado.

So far I for sure get better traction over the NeoGens and they seem to be providing solid traction. They seem to "float" a bit more than I would like but I need to check my alignment again before I blame the tires.

I pulled the hell out of my flares before I painted the car and I just need a little bit more to clear these.



Will hit you up for sure if I am up towards Austin and do the same if you find yourself down here in Houston.
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Old 04-19-2019, 02:07 PM
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Car is looking great and I'll definitely hit you up next time I'm in Houston.
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Old 04-19-2019, 10:37 PM
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I was able to seal up the v band leak today with one of these. Worked great and I will be putting one in every v band I install going forward. I have tried several ways of welding them on but unless you are willing to spend the time to make a jig to keep them from warping you will never get them to seal properly. These gaskets should do the trick for 99% of the leaking v bands out there. I also have found that if you use some copper anti-seize in the band and on the threads of the t bolt they seem to seal up MUCH easier.

Now on to a front splitter and full flat bottom....
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Old 06-03-2019, 04:50 PM
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Sorry for not getting dyno results in the thread sooner, but my relationship status with the miata went from "its complicated" to "married with dog and kids in the suburbs". It is currently getting a full cage, fire system and various other items.... As soon as those are done, I have an appointment with a professional tuner to get it 100% dialed in and actual HP number to see where we landed.
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Old 06-29-2019, 12:03 AM
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The caterpillar...... butterfly coming soon.....
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Old 07-19-2019, 09:23 AM
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Took her out for her first track day since the cage and turbo and this is a COMPLETELY different car now with the cage. I expected the chassis to be stiff but wasn't sure what that would really mean or feel like. Before the car would flex a bit and it was clear when you were on the verge of the tires cutting loose and you could play in a pretty wide safe zone of control. The car now has significantly more traction until it has ZERO! Caught me off guard the first lap I really started to push the car. By the end of the day I was starting to get used to it so it will just take me learning to feel new zone in the car. I also had a noticeable amount of understeer which the car never really had before. Going to play with the aero and alignment a bit to see if we can remedy that.

The turbo is adding a fair bit of heat into the cooling system. Pushing the car really hard in the heat of the afternoon pushed the temp gauge up to 260. I exited that session and skipped the next one to let the car cool off.

Overall the car did pretty well in her first real shakedown. After getting the car back home and up in the air I looked over EVERYTHHING. I found one bolt that was trying to come loose and one spot where the chassis was rubbing on an intercooler pipe. I fixed those up and set out to fab up a cooler for the turbo in the back of the car.

I ended up ordering one of these coolers. I knew I wanted it right after the turbo before the coolant started its journey back to the engine but wasn't sure if I wanted it in the trunk lid, like a Porche, or the license plate area.



The lid would have been pretty straight forward but would have required a support structure to be fabbed up in the trunk.

The license plate area looked like a near perfect fit and I could mount the cooler to the body. I wasn't sure how the aero would impact the cooler in the ducktail and someone guided me to Emilio's "Vegas" build here. In his buid he placed a trans and diff cooler in the plate area to take advantage of the low pressure behind the car but he is also feeding the fans from the rear wheel well. Made good enough sense to me so I decided to mount the cooler in the license plate area.

Here is the end result and I will post up the resulting temps after the next track session.




Next up is the front aero and GT 250 wing. I found a cheap front bumper locally and had most of the other stuff needed to build an air dam and frame mount the GT 250 so both are already under way...

Nothing special and both are well documented elsewhere. I have most of the air dam done and just need to trim the splitter 3" out and I can get started on the rear wing.

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Old 07-19-2019, 10:15 AM
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That license plate cooler is bad ***!!! Well done, looks very nice.
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Old 07-19-2019, 01:45 PM
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Needs more video Awesome build man, car sounds like a blast. It is crazy the difference a cage makes in a car, especially a floppy miata.

Also, fastback definitely confuses the hell out of people.
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