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Understand Goof. This will be a solid clutch and their alu flywheel made specifically for a 2009 3.6 CTS after they made changes from the Camaro flywheel part number. I am hopeful and cautiously optimistic I guess but there is a chance I will end up no better off than other like you have.
I don't think a high performance clutch for the MV7 exists, unless the one for the MV5 will work. And to second what gooflophaze said above, do not buy a spec. The interwebs is full of customers who were fucked by their garbage products and their only response is to offer a discount on a future purchase. Their products and customer service are both trash. I would call monster clutches in TX and see what needs to be changed if anything to use their MV5 clutch with an MV7.
At first the clutch would not 100% disengage and I mean just barely as in 99.999%. You could just see/feel the clutch still touching the flywheel with the clutch fully depressed but after 50 or so miles of street driving it is just fine. The ask that you put several hundred miles on it before hard use and I gave it a full boost run after about 250 miles of street tuning and it held just fine. It is also not a lightswitch clutch so that is nice. Only time will tell if it holds up at the track but I will let you all know if it fails.
EDIT- Be sure to specify that you want a solid clutch otherwise they will ship you a sprung clutch that seems to have a high failure rate.
COVID19 project #13. I was getting a bit more back pressure that I like so I found these boost activated dump valves. Now when I'm under boost this will just dump straight out of the driver side exhaust tip and when at a light or cruising around it will go through the muffler out the passenger side.
running a Bosch T-MAP (provides IAT with MAF gone)
NTK L2H2 WB sensors in place of NB
Shielded wire for crank, cam and knock sensors
k-type EGTs for each bank
Full tefzel
Full concentric twisted
Mil-spec
Always wanted to try the concentric twisted method and while it is a SERIOUS pain to do, the end result is impressive. A branch of 20+ wires ranging from 4 conductor shielded to 16 and 20AWG and placed together will bend and lay like a single piece of wire. Pretty amazing...
***PSA. - Unless you have ever built one of these it is pretty easy to question why a custom motorsport harness goes for over 2k. TRUST ME when I say that if done properly, they are worth every single penny! ***
I am going to have to 3d print a housing to hold the e39 header connectors to make a true plug-n-play "kit" with the LFX harness, but that is already in the works!
Seems like a relatively simple swap. Get an lfx flywheel to dct splined adapter plate and trans mounting plate along with a driveshaft, rear trans mount and exhaust rerouting.. Hardest part sounds like electronics.
that trans should be able to handle lots of power...
100% doable and the ball has already been set into motion.... I say there is a chance this can be a "kit" by Halloween.
I have already started printing parts for a button panel and paddle shifters to integrate with everything and working on building a CAN controller, but having to teach myself A LOT about CAN since I have not had a chance to get too deep into it before. May have to get Gooflophaze to school me a bit since he is THA MASTA at all things CAN.
Alright, for anyone following my madness on here, I learned over the weekend that the LF3/4 internals do NOT work with the LFX heads/block. Intake valve clearance issues. Looking for options now, but they will not work off the shelf to lower your compression ratio.
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