Have I destroyed my engine before I even built it?
#1
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Have I destroyed my engine before I even built it?
Long story short I moved house after I got all the parts to build a new motor. And I thought I put everything safely in the new garage..
Forged internals.
Honed block with matching pistons / rings.
Milled crankshaft with matching bearings.
And I just found my main bearing caps in the back of the Ute stuck behind the air compressor, with a few months of rain on them 😭
There's plenty of main bearing caps on eBay etc.
However I feel that's a bit iffy.
So is throwing in random bearing caps all good??
Or
A new block and matching it to everything else is the best way to go??
Forged internals.
Honed block with matching pistons / rings.
Milled crankshaft with matching bearings.
And I just found my main bearing caps in the back of the Ute stuck behind the air compressor, with a few months of rain on them 😭
There's plenty of main bearing caps on eBay etc.
However I feel that's a bit iffy.
So is throwing in random bearing caps all good??
Or
A new block and matching it to everything else is the best way to go??
#4
Isn't there a company selling billet mains now? That would indicate to me that main bearing caps don't necessarily have to be matched to the block. This is way out of my area of expertise though.
Edit:
Just did a quick google. Mazworx apparently makes a set. The say that a "line bore/hone" is required after install. Looks like Ian was right, replaceable, but machine work required.
Edit:
Just did a quick google. Mazworx apparently makes a set. The say that a "line bore/hone" is required after install. Looks like Ian was right, replaceable, but machine work required.
#7
I wondered about something like this when I first read the post. Surface rust not the issue, the caps need to seat the bearing shell, is all. I would be willing to take the risk on that surface if it was largely intact - how 'largely' depends on your appetite for risk/reward considering your investment in that block. Cleam 'em up (carefully!), put the crank in with some bearings and use some plastigauge on both shells then compare results top and bottom. Somebody with more experience with bottom ends than me can then tell you if it is totally knackered, or not.
#8
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I might even go for a chemical rust removal and see how they look. ****, even a soak in household vinegar, which is a very mild acid, for about a week and the rust will melt away. Avoid anything too harsh that might eat the metal if you go the chemical route.
#9
To expand on my post, treat the bearing shell surfaces with kid gloves - that is the critical dimension, you don't want to take off anything more of that than absolutely necessary. I would go so far as to say, as long as there is nothing loose, moveable, compressible there, it's good to go! OK, maybe not, but all you are looking for is a good surface to seat the bearing shell, so do the minimum to achieve that.
#10
Assuming that's the case, you're still going to need to machine it after you're done, in which case you might as well go with the billet main caps (stronger) or just get another block and machine it for the pistons (probably the cheapest option).
--Ian
#11
To expand on my post, treat the bearing shell surfaces with kid gloves - that is the critical dimension, you don't want to take off anything more of that than absolutely necessary. I would go so far as to say, as long as there is nothing loose, moveable, compressible there, it's good to go! OK, maybe not, but all you are looking for is a good surface to seat the bearing shell, so do the minimum to achieve that.
--Ian
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