Wut?

My AFR gauge has to calibrate everytime you turn it on and it doesn't idle long enough before it dies. Plus using VE live to tune idle is stupid. Wut is teh problem? :dealwithit:


I tested idle with and without the IAC. It idled and stays running with the IAC disconnected.
Video for better explanation.. be warned horrible quality.
IAC Disconnected actually holding idle.


I'll supply tune file and the datalogs if it helps.
I checked for vacuum leaks, whilst idling, with carb cleaner. I got nothing.


It's kinda funny looking at scatter plots of the idle making an oval..

Could be spark, ve, afr.
Try and get it somewhat stable at around 1300 or so by cracking the throttle open using the set-screw. Idle valve disconnected.
Then slowly lower RPMs and keep tuning.

Alright so!
The car runs and drives now, ended up being a multitude of things and at the very end just being needing to scale the VE higher.
Thanks Stefanat for that suggestion on my other thread.

From all the cranking my front crank seal kinda.. have up? leaks like crazy when running:

And I'm wanting to track the reason down why my MS interprets my AFR signal as crazy oscillations.
Here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...57#post1066557

Changed shifter bushings and whatnot so since I have 6 speed greatness I changed my gear oil as well to Amsoil MTG

6Speed greatness: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1382804376

No so great:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1382804376

is that a bb on your magnet? ahhhhh....

Yeahhh... it came out of my transmission?
Very sad
It hasn't exploded thankfully. Yet.

I may need one of those badass oil catch cans/ breather boxes. Or the new cap seal I ordered will fix this. It happens after any boost is seen. Obviously gets worse.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383138168

Time to drill a hole in the block like a man.

I see you have the car idling now, but thought I would share this in case it helps you dial things in....

I have a MTX-L WBO gauge also and it does take 30-40 seconds to calibrate. However, if you wire it to a power source which is hot with both the key on and during engine cranking, it can be used to diagnose idling issues just after engine start. With that wiring, you just turn the key to on and wait for the WBO to calibrate before starting the car. Once the WB gauge is showing ready, start the engine normally. The gauge won't go off during cranking, so it will start reading as soon as the engine starts.

Hope this helps.

Not sure about the MTXL manual but it says specifically not to do this in the LC1 manual since its bad for the sensor. Something about condensation.

Drill my block?! D:
____
I have my AFR wired to a hot while in ignition and start)

My tach/RPMs are being lame.
- Gauge not matching TS
- Datalog of WOT pull to my 6800 redline shows me only at 82ish% TP and engine wont rev past 6000.

Stone really weird stuff with this car keeps making me think something in the Harness is fucked.. But not fucked enough to not run.

I replaced the oil fill cap seal and it doesn't leak. I still need proper oil catch can set up.
I tried to dial in my idle valve settings for closed loop.. yeah my valve doesn't do anything it's idling purely off the idle screw.

My boost is back down to 7-8psi :( I believe my cat is clogged. I'm in serious need of exhaust but I've been trying to wait till I get all new hit sides.

Anyone know a reason why the Tach would go crazy after 5800-600rpm and the odometer numbers fade out?

Grounds? IDK.

Here's data and composite log of a 1-3 gear pull, where the Tach went crazy every time and reset my radio.

I'm separating from the military here soon soI'm going to be in need of a job, in Tampa, FL or around Huntsville, AL.
If anyone knows if any job opportunities it would be great. I'd hate to make a For Sale.. :(

Upon investigating about boost leak since I'm limited to six to eight psi right now.
I find this:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1384743740

Then after finding some boost leaks and fixing them (besides my brake booster inside the cabin) I'm still limited on boost :( Sad.

So I had over to Bradenton motor Speedway. 1/4mi.
What do I do?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1384743740

The pic maybe deceiving, but it looks like your ride height is set too low. If your ride height is too high or low, you are much more likely to break axles.