Impuls build
 

Initial briefing:
This is her. Bought about a year ago, after my deployment/divorce, as my first venture away from domestics. Since then money pit.
Attachment 185590

After my 99 motor blew from low oil, I joined the boosted world with an 04 MSM motor with FM piping. I got her running with Megasquirt 2 and tuned myself with boost set to 14-15psi. Yes I know, pointless on that tiny turbo.
But now due to my luck ( probably from reading fae's thread) I believe to have bent a rod.
Video of sound to haunt your nightmares.

Story time:
This was the result of a bored night and thinking I'd get lunch control/flat shift to work. Didn't matter what wire on the clutch switch it was on it would always engage. So there I was in Advanced auto parts parking lot ( just happened to be down the road when I was going into launch control while driving) messing with it
Settings 3000rpm 15 timing retard ( or so I thought)
Decent settings right for testing?
A buddy that works at advanced yells "I don't see any flames!"
Well shit.. let's fix that 4000rpm set wait wut timing retard was set to 1? it didn't take my keystroke of 5?
Shiiiiiiiit.
Boom.


So what do I do?
I spend moneys to build it bigger, better and stronger.

Attachment 185591

Current parts listing in pile:
- Typical turbo Miata bottom end
Wiseco pistons 84mm
Eagle H beam rods
Full ARP studs
ACL racing bearings
Boundary Engineering oil pump
- My supporting mods and upgrades for my final goal
Fidanza flywheel
Walboro HP 255
RC 440cc injectors
Precision 350hp intercooler
Cometic head gasket
Full Gates racing belts ( timing and serpentines)
-Coolant reroute parts
Begi rear spacer
Escalade hose?
Block off freeze plug
______

Explanation:
RC 440cc injectors because I was planning on staying with the stock internal msm motor and not that much power increase. and got them for really cheap from a buddy 100$

Flywheel but no clutch huh?
I already have a ACT clutch in there already that was use a total of 1-2 months maybe.
________

My goal:
~20psi 400hp with decent spool.
I'm not picky on the exact numbers but this is where I want to be.
How?
EFR 6758
Top mount turbo manifold?? I kinda like the look of them up to opinions/ facts.
ID1000's
Stronger clutch
Stronger rear end with 3.63 gears hopefully
Steady state dyno tune

Out briefing
Thanks for your time.
My engine should be coming out the car and start being built this week.

Questions:

What am I missing? ( If anything)


Any pro/cons to anything in my setup that I should consider? or parts that may have better rivals.

I like the the pile of parts.

Change of plans.
Going:
Artech top mount
Quick spool valve
EFR 7163 twin scroll/IWG


Already got a 405-415ft/lbs clutch now

Still waiting for ALC bearings to polish/ balance the crank then put the engine back together.

Interested to see the how the EFR7163 performs. I assume Abe is making you a twinscroll manifold?

QSV = non twin-scroll manifold. You use the twin-scroll housing with a regular manifold and the QSV will halve the A/R.

I'm liking the parts list too and can't wait to see what the bigger EFR's do on a miata. Good luck

Why not have abe make a TS manifold? You're already getting a custom manifold and DP to fit that monster turbo. I bet the cost of QSV + normal manifold is close to a TS manifold.

Yeah that sounds like a better idea. TS>QSV

I want to correct my monster turbo statement. I just realized that he said 7163 is the new turbo the same external size as my efr, well besides the exhaust housing being much bigger. Its not a monster turbo like a 7064 but its still pretty big.

The data on it that I have seen was impressive. It spools like a 6758 but provides significantly more top end.

Borg Warner EFR-7163 Test and Tune » PERRIN Performance Official Blog

It does not seem to be available yet though from any vendors that I can find.

I'm guessing that OP already has or Abe has already started building his non-TS manifold because he was going with the 6758.

PM me when you decide to sell off that 350 and buy the 600 :party:

This should be a VERY interesting build. I know EFRs are pretty much magical, but I didn't think 1.8 liters of displacement was enough to spin a turbo that size.

there are people with GT30's and GT35's on miata's. Yeah, it is.

Because after talking with Abe he thinks making a TS manifold for the bigger B2 frame EFR would be very difficult ( not impossible) mainly because I still want PS/AC. Other then that after research and talking to some supra guys that use QSV alot it may spool the smaller TS turbo faster then Going full TS. Just because ALLOFIT is going the the smaller spool side first then opens up to be normal.

I'm open to options though, I've talked to Sav too I'm wanting to see what TSE had four their manifolds since it'll be PS/AC compatible. Which waiting for the release + waiting to actually acquire the EFR MAYBE TSE will actually really something about their turbo kit that they're making. Not like they keep pushing back dates or anything :P ( Because quality product)


I would go bigger EFR ( one of the 7 series, B2 frames) Because I want to get good numbers with less psi. But fitment is such an issue, especially since I'm ignorant and want to keep PS/AC. Before I wanted to run 20psi thinking it'll get me to 400. Creep'ed Soviet's build and he needed 26+psi


My question:
Anyone here have any experiences with quick spool valves? I know if Fae running one but that's about it.

Yeah I was gonna say, wheel size wise its like a 3071R, but wheel inertia wise it should be like a GT28RS or smaller. I want to see spool data of it with the TS housing. I would be serious consideration into redoing my manifold and DP in 2 years to switch to the bigger housing if its the same or better.

I actually do want a 600!

When everything gets squared away I'll definitely post dyno + spool data

Here's what I got laying around now
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369414732

I wouldnt use that T6 as break in oil, buy regular Rotella T instead. ;) Savgington almost had a heart attack when I emailed him with "what should I use for break in oil? Rotella T6?"

So what did Full Race tell you about availability of the 7163?

Mmm thats a good question. I've been hearing 2014. From them, treadstone, and southeast power systems.

Haha xD yeah never use synthetic oil for break in. I'll probably go get some shit oil.
I saw awhile back that Royal People is now making break in oil. ( over priced conventional oil I'm sure)

Nothing just yet, still waiting on a reply. But they are the ones that recommended it to me Before it releases "here soon"
So I did research, and got so excite.

yeah, heard the same thing... Royal Purple isnt terrible, but im willing to bet you are right... overpriced conventional. I used rotella T, and right now it is only $13 if you have an advanced auto nearby.... doesnt get cheaper than that.

My friend (has that gross honda virus) had his H22 taken apart recently to sleeve it, and he used nothing but royal purple for 3 years... engine had a shit ton of sludge in it...
i know they are reputable, but i wont use it because of this

Well if it was a non-detergent race oil (which some royal purple oils are) the sludge is completely understandable. Non-detergent oils will sludge every time, they're supposed to be run in engines that have their life measured in hours. But any detergent oil has no business sludging at all unless the oil change interval was stretch WAY to long (common symptom of the honda virus).

you dont need to change oil often when you have mad V-Tec yo.... everybody knows that... :drool:

makes sense... it probably was the non detergent race stuff... slap "race" in the name, and it automatically looks better for the V-Tack

They can be difficult to get hold of. Best to email them directly (Geoff/Jon/Raffi)

For oil, I used Rotella for the whole process.

Rotella T1 SAE30 (straight-grade) for initial fill, start and drain (to clean up all the crap after assembly)
Rotella T1 SAE30 (straight-grade)for break-in (like first 10-30 miles)
Rotella T Triple 15W40 (good conventional) for first 500 miles or so
Rotella T6 after that (full synthetic)

Bought everything at walmart

straight-grade rotella -
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369416691

Thanks Soviet & Leafy
I'll probably end up doing the Rotella T1 route now.
Thank God... someone that knows engine break in isn't 500-1000mi. It doesn't take THAT long for rings to seal.

How did you do your break in?
My plan was:
fill with strait weight oil, start up and idle. Change oil, normal drive to nearby bridge. forth gear to vacuum/boost threshold let off gas, repeat untill over bridge (4-5 Times or more) then just normal drive around to put miles, change oil.


Hondas don't need oil changes. they eat a qt a week so it's like having a new oil every month!

Yep... that Honduh engineering is unbeatable!!!!!

its not vtec if it isn't MAD VTAK

Do you even BWAAAHHH?!

I broke my engine in the same way you described

Okay cool deal, What type of manifold are you running for your 6758? Still begi log?

On the news side of things I bought some brand new ID1000's from a member not but a few minutes ago :3

no I have a 1-off tubular log manifold.

this one - https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...-thread-59615/

Update on the new EFR 7163 from Geoff:
The 7163 "is likely to be released in August and shipping in sept"

I'm not going to lie(I can not, I like big butts), I'm pretty fucking excited.

Some ID1000's arrived today
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369842722

I love that their new ones have the clips holding down the extenders/adapters.

I sold my old set and bought a new set for this very reason :)

Interesting.
But makes no difference to me :party:

Yeah I'm pretty impressed by them, I can't wait for everything to be running.
There will be a delay in getting and EFR sadly, thanks to the ol AirForce shaft, but all in due time. It's still fun with the IHI rh55 :/ even though they are horrible.

I don't think the 7064 is that much larger. A bit longer, yes, but that's not really hard to compensate for when you're custom-building a manifold.

6258 0.64a/r T25 vs 7064 0.92a/r T4TS

Attachment 239635

Attachment 239636

Maybe I should man up and take AC/PS out..
Florida summers are horrible though, especially in a black car.
It would make my " well it fit" manifold worry go away

Think about that really hard before you do it. I don't see why you couldn't make it work. My turbo is larger physically(probably not as long, though) and I have tons of room for a/c.

There is nothing worse than sitting in traffic and the sweltering heat just engulfs you. No one will ever want to ride in your car.

True true.
I want to wait for the 7163 it'll be about the same size as the 6758, according to everything I've read on it. I should expect spool of an 6758 but +50hp up top.
I would think though with my TS/IWG/QSV set up I should spool even faster.

I was talking to a 2JZ person (lord knows they need all the spool they can get) he was saying QSV are about an inch to an inch and a quarter thick though. That really shifts the turbo position.

There's seems to be no doubt I'll have to get a custom manifold/downpipe, I'm realizing that.

For the record, Brad Penn sells really good break in oil. My local speed shop gets 5.25/qt for it.

What's the point of "break in oil"? or even the difference from conventional?

Break in oil usually has lots of anti wear additives and detergents and no temperature stability agents.

How is it any better than single grade SAE30 oil from Walmart @ $17/gallon?

Well hopefully a break in oil is a crap load thinner than straight 30 when cold, unless you're going to run an oil heater. Straight 30 doesnt work as a hydrodynamic bearing lubricant until like 180*F IRRC, thats a whole lot of time on your fresh engine to be clanging the bearings off the crank.

Apples and oranges. Dedicated break-in oil has higher phosphorous/zinc levels to promote ring seal and prevent excessive bearing wear, and a specific lack of molybdenum (friction modifier) to promote ring seal. I break in new race engines on Amsoil SAE30 break-in oil. Worth the extra $2/qt IMO.

Is Sav says he uses it you know it's true.

Also here I'm attaching my tune file. I want to make sure it's all set up like it needs to be.

It's for a 1.9L using ID1000's, 36-1 trigger wheel w/ sequential injection, launch control/flat shift (Woe is me, I fixed the number that fucked my engine up), Using MSM CoP wasted spark ignition system, EBC as yet to be wired up though.

Let me know if you need to know anything else to make sure the settings are good to go.
To me it looks like it's good to crank and set timing. (thus I have anything that could change timing or fuel off, ya know the standard first set up of MS on your car deal) but I'm not nearly as knowledgeable as most... well some of the guys here.

PS: Ignore my noobie tuned VE table :greddy:

Some updates:
I finally got my bearings
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372030632

Now I'll be getting the rotational assembly balanced and journals micro polished. Then I can finally assemble and get my car running again.

I acquired a blox manifold from 18psi. It's pretty cool and all.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372030632
I plan on running a 70mm throttle body and I plan on having the actual manifold "ported" if I can find someone who does it.

I'm still waiting for August to come around and hopefully order the EFR 7163 and have the manifold and downpipe made.
I was getting a little anxious thinking about buying my buddies 16g6 to run. But figured it would be a waste.


______
This Saturday I went with my friend to have it newly turbo equipped s2000 dyno tuned. The dyno is $60 an hour which seems pretty damn good. Though it's not a steady state :/ It is suppose to be biggest dynojet made though. Very nice in ground setup. 2 screens next to the car. The wall in front of the car has a projector to display chart as well.

The shop that owns it though can talk shit like no other though haha, they are a LS engine specialist. Lots of corvettes. I was in a twin turbo vett and never knew it till I looked where the mufflers were suppose to be.

August will come and go. Time moves a lot faster than you expect.

True true, thanks for the incite.
August the EFR becomes available, September they ship out... hopefully.
It'll give me time to make sure everything is sound on the car though.

So maybe you guys can shed some light on pistons a call from the machine shop saying my pistons weren't connected to the rods right? (sweated the metal to push the wrist pin in)
They are saying that it's free floating and needs hone bored for an extra $180.

I did not quite follow. Do you mean that the pin is tight on the rod or the piston? The pin should move freely on the rod, be snug against the piston bore. If it is too tight on the rod, it will overheat.

They never said anything was to tight. They just said the way it was put together was wrong.
It probably was to tight on the rod. as I quote what they said "if you would if put this into your engine like this it would of torn apart and probably rip apart your block"
It's a good thing I wanted everything balanced I suppose.

They also said that my ARP flywheel bolts are the wrong size.
I got them here http://miataroadster.com/arp/arp_fly.../i-404514.aspx

Edit: which turns out Fidanza threads their flywheel differently then stock. Which I guess Fidanza did 8x1.25 mm thread pitch,16 mm bolt. After some research.

Yes, the Fidanza flywheel bolts are coarse thread. The aluminum they're threaded into can't be fine thread for obvious reasons.

If you are unsure what is going on with the rods, I would suggest making a visit to your shop just so you have a full understanding on what the problem is. That way you can articulate exactly what the issue is to us, and for your own personal knowledge.

Why exactly is a flywheel threaded?
Wouldn't/ couldn't that cause a gap between the crank?
if the crank is fine thread and the flywheel is course thread.. they shouldn't work?

The clutch cover bolts thread into the flywheel.

Most aftermarket aluminum flywheels are also thicker than the stock steel ones they replace. I imagine your ARP bolts aren't long enough. Call Fidanza.

I thought you were referring to the clutch to flywheel bolts. My bad. The threads are coarse because it is going into aluminum.

I'm referring to crank bolts. I'm thinking the old guy from the machine shop was thinking about the clutch bolts (6ea), the crank bolts(6ea) shouldn't have threaded holes on Fidenza flywheel.

Machine shop just closed. They said my rotating assembly is balanced and everything is good to go, AFTER they told me the flywheel bolts won't thread.

There's some serious miscommunication going on.
I'm going tomorrow to see what's up in person.

The fidanza holes for the crank bolts are really tight, so much so that my bolts have "tapped" the holes a bit. That may be why he's under the impression they thread into the flywheel.

He should know better, though.