I have that PCV, just wondering if I needed to do one after. I know for a fact that my BOV is leaking @ idle...isn't it supposed to? The BOV is a brand new AUDI (bosch) BOV.

So when you said unplug the IAC I am pretty sure you mean once the car is warmed up. When I unplug it what should happen if the IAC is good? Also should I use diagnostic box jumper when I do this? Thanks

Updated:

I went to an exhaust shop and got my Hotside IC piping fixed. Before it contained aluminum piping, silcone couplers, but also had...PVC piping, home depot couplers, and bendable exhaust tubbing. I got a GTX 323 PCV and cleaned the Intake manifold again. With all of these changes my idle is completely fixed! Now just saving for MS so I can run my WI and turn up the boost. Right now I am maxing out @ 5 psi and the turbo is loud...is this the wastegate maximum boost or does it sound like I have a leak? I will try to get a sound clip today...thanks again for all your guys help. My miata is now just as worry free as when the motor was stock, but now its like 10 times as fun.

Is anyone running an heater core near the water cooled turbo? I have a new heater core sitting around and was just wondering if I would see any difference. I plan on mouting it behind the radiator to pick up the cooler air from below...it is about 9 by 8 inches. PS I am running @ 202- 208 when my car is sitting...

Just checked today and I have huge shaft play...does anyone know a good rebuilder or a good cheap turbo (t2 inlet). I bought both turbos used and both were super cheap so I guess I get what was coming to me. Please let me know any good preferably local (LA) locations...thank you.

gpopshop.com will sell you a kit to do it yourself for less than $75.

I tried it once before on the old turbo and hated the process...if anyone wants to do it in the LA area I will pay...but I need it done right :)

Ryan, Call up Church Automotive. They are local to you and do tons of tuning for FI cars and are really nice guys, I am pretty sure they can recommend a rebuilder if not themselves. Or try David on HT. He works with Jerry Built and thats a small company that is putting out huge numbers so it might be cheap

Hi guys, just wanted to update this...I am now running my Progressive DOWI, along with now using a Uego to monitor my A/f...I installed a new t25 with a 8 psi wastegate. Here are some pics... Next on my list is to get MS so I can get all the power, & more importantly tuning capabilities. But as of now with the FMIC I am having no problems. Please I am open to any comments/suggestions/advice, also does anyone know a good place to it dyno'd in LA area? Now for some pictures.
Attachment 213991
I know my oil feed is ghetto rigged along with the intake arm, but I should be taking care of these in a while...also the wheels are now polished by hand, not great quality but it gets the job done.
Attachment 213992
Attachment 213993

looks good.

Just bought MS two days ago...planning to run MS-II with no NA CAS. I will update this thread as I hopefully make some progress.

How do your A/Fs look with stock fueling + intercooler & WI?

a\f
 

It seems to drive ok, but under boost even with the wi it runs lean.

Update for this...yesterday I used the largest nozzle from my DO kit and I am now almost perfectly stoich. When I boost approximately 3-6 pounds (WI comes in @ 2psi) I am running anywhere between 13.7 - 15.1...I am super happy with it:jerkit:, but I will still be adding MS to it (building it next week) to actually be able to tune.:)

i think you want to be slightly richer while in boost right? Or is being richer in boost just to help with detonation by cooling, which is what DO does?

So basically you are lean as fuck and you need a real ECU. Don't boost on your car until your AFRs are WAY under 13:1. Most of us run in the 11.8-12.5:1 range, even with water.

Lean as fuck would be more like 17+. My MS will probably be operational hopefully in two weeks, but honestly why should I not boost, my set up has been going strong for a few months and I have had no problems with the car, (had to replace the turbo, because I purchased crappy used ones that were already set to fail). I have not once ever had knock/detonation, and that is a lot more then some people can say running MS.

13.5:1 would be a good target for 0psi (naturally aspirated). I consider anything leaner than 13:1 on a turbo car to be lean as fuck. 17:1 is where you'd lean cruise if you were trying to save gas. You're going to start melting pistons if you continue to boost on the car with AFRs in the 13.5:1 and up range.

:bowrofl:

I agree with you Ryan, you car runs very very nice for no engine management. Its pretty badass.

Thanks, I think it is just most people are probably right, your car will run like shit without management, but I think they are only correlating that to experiences with NA's. Out of the four people I know personally who have had boosted Nb's only one of them had aftermarket management. I completely agree with people that MS, EMB (to a lesser extent :giggle:), etc is a much better way to run, but people need to see that it can be done with stock management (on NB's, NA's can have they're timing problems all day long:giggle:). While I know I am nowhere near the power I desire or the gas mileage, I have comfort knowing that my set up is safe and reliable, even though it lacks my tuning desires :) until my MS is all set to go!!!

I'm going to wait for someone else to back me up, but I really don't think 13.5:1 AFRs in boost are safe, regardless of power levels or detonation.