Lc-1 12V source

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Oct 7, 2010 | 02:22 AM

#21

triple88a

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Cococarbine3

I am thinking about using a Single Pole Double Throw relay with a 12v source from the blue diagnostic connector (which is only hot when the key in the ignition is set to "on"), and ACC from the radio harness for deactivation during cranking. Right now I'm trying to figure out how to wire this.

Can I splice the ACC wire into 85, have 86 go to radio ground, wire the 12v source to 30, and have 87a go to the LC-1?

Sorry I am really bad when it comes to wiring electronics. I am slowly learning however. I do know that the LC-1 needs close grounds to the ECU and no voltage drops.

Also some fun facts for you, the LC-1 draws 1 amp running and 2 amps during warmup. Innovate advises a minimum fuse size of 5 amps.

the radio is automatically OFF during cranking, wire it to the radio acc wire. 85 goes to that wire, 86 goes to grd, 30 goes to the lc1 and then 87 goes though the center console behind the passenger seat and directly to the battery with a fuse.

I would also recommend making a restart button that temporarily turns off the LC1. Once in a while mine likes to not work and it needs to be restarted which if you dont have that button requires you to shut off the motor.

Oct 7, 2010 | 03:07 AM

#22

rbluemx6

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Cococarbine3

I haven't seen any manual that states it needs a constant 12v during cranking.

Your right. My memory fails me. But I wonder if interupting warm up has any impact on the sensor reading when fully warmed up.

Oct 7, 2010 | 08:54 AM

#23

tyson87

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Quote:

Originally Posted by triple88a

I would also recommend making a restart button that temporarily turns off the LC1. Once in a while mine likes to not work and it needs to be restarted which if you dont have that button requires you to shut off the motor.

I GET THIS SAME PROBLEM. When it happens to u, does ur far read as 7.4 or something to that nature??

Oct 7, 2010 | 03:39 PM

#24

triple88a

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it blinks at 7.4 meaning it has no signal. Its normal. Interrupting the sensor after it has warmed up (restarting the engine) restarts the LC1 and it takes roughly 7-8 seconds to get a signal and start reading back.

The only thing i've seen is the issue with the lc1 going nuts if voltage drops too much which would happen during cranking anyways.