Stripes

iTrader: (8)

I wired my LC-1 to my Link today and cannot get the led to blink during the first time calibration mode. Here's how I wired it:

Brown anolog 2 -> green/red wire in egr harness
yellow anolog 1 -> blue wire at 02 narrowband harness(the other wires were taped off)
blue ground -> grounding post under throttle body
green ground -> blue/black wire in egr harness
white -> grounding post at rear of intake manifold
red power -> purge 12 switched source(same as FM WB install)

black calibration wire -> red LED wire ->black LED -> black reset button wire -> other black reset wire back to engine block.

I ran through the Link install procedures by turning on the wideband setting and disabling the egr.

I'm able to hook up my laptop to the LC-1 and the anolog settings and fuel mixture are correct. If I press the red reset button for open air calibration, the LED does light up.

Has anyone had this problem with a Link or can see what I'm doing wrong?

Ben

iTrader: (33)

If you run logworks2 your computer will sim an xd-16 gauge for you that will show you what's going on. I think the heater calibration comes first and it will display "htr_cal" (or something similar) on your laptop. The free air calibration comes next. I think it displays just "cal" for the free air. It's a better way to see what's going on than watching an led.

Easiest way to get the lc to do a full cabiration is unplug the wb sensor from the lc module, cycle the ignition, then plug the wb back in. That will trick the lc into thinking you've got a new wb sensor, so it will automatically do the full calibration. Watch the calibration progress on your laptop to make sure it happened.

Stripes

iTrader: (8)

Ok, I'll give that a shot.

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

You can take a look at my LC-1/Link installation on my homepage (WBO2 section). Maybe you can see something there that will help you.

Stripes

iTrader: (8)

Ok, we're getting somewhere. I ran logworks and the heater calibration came up and then the air calibration did it's thing. After it was done, the number hovered around 20.8 or 28.8.(I can't remember) So I guess my Lc-1 is calibrated. Does this sound like it's ready to be started? I have a hard time understanding electronics. It's not my strong suit.

I wonder why my LED is not working though. I would like to get it working before I fire the car up to make sure all my grounds are correct.

thanks for your help

Stripes

iTrader: (8)

I've read your page at least 50 times. Nothing is really jumping out at me. Then again, I really don't understand what I'm doing

Stripes

iTrader: (8)

OK, I found something I don't understand:

"Mount the LED and switch that are supplied with the LC-1. Connect the BLACK wire on the LED to the BLACK wire on the switch. Connect the RED wire on the LED to the RED wire on the switch. "

My LED has a red and black wire, but my switch only has two black wires.

So you don't have to go through my first post again, here's how I wired my LED:

black calibration wire from LC-1 -> red wire on LED -> black wire on LED -> one of the two black wires on button -> the other black wire on push button-> ground on engine block.

Does this sound right? Where did you link up your black calibration wire?

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

Your grounds are too far apart also. Theyneed to be grounded at the same spot with the two thin wire grounded together and the thick wire grounded around an inch away to prevent interference. If you ground them too far apart like you have it can throw off your readings. The lc1 units is SUPER sensitive to grounding problems, which cause almost all issues people have with it.

I personally grounded mine directly into a ground wire on the engine harness. Ground disparities of feet like you have will cause problems.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Sounds like you are ready to go. The lc doesn't like ground variatations, but I don't think that a tenth of a volt or so will matter with the calibration ground like it would with the output ground. An led has polarity, so it's possible that you have the leads reversed. You could try switching them around.... that sounds like the problem from what you wrote.

I don't have a calibration switch or led. That was one of the things I considered when I decided to get the lc with the xd gauge (the other reason is it automatically dims at night, I hated how bright my nb gauge was).

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I ripped the damn LED and button off, I couldn't ever get it to work....if I need to recalibrate I use the LM programmer, or just unplug the sensor.

Stripes

iTrader: (8)

I wish innovative would tell you this information in their instructions. I thought the most important thing was to have all the grounds grounded to the block and not to split the grounds from the block and chassis.

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

They had a "contest" where you could write the documentation for a certain car and they would give you one of their $200 gauges (XD-16???). They chose my documentation for the Miata. I have never seen it posted though (much more detail than I have on my webpage).

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I think I read a thousand places where all the grounds (except heater)must be to the same ground point. If I can get it to work, any common idiot can.

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

Nobody said that ANYTHING about you is common.:gay:

Stripes

iTrader: (8)

I was referring to the heater grounded an inch away opposed to the distance I grounded my wires.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

IIRC there are 4 total grounds
LC1 Main Ground
Sensor Heater Ground
Output Ground
Calibration Ground

If you are going to use one of the outputs to feed data to an ecu (either sim nb to stock ecu or wb to a piggy/standalone), you need the Output Ground at the same ground as the ecu/piggy/standalone. Other than that, there's not much of a need to get all the ground potentials identical.

What worked best for me is:
LC1 Main Ground--Engine Block
Sensor Heater Ground--Engine Block
Output Ground--Grounded with ECU (tapped at pin 2B I think?)
Calibration Ground--N/A
Power +12v: Something switched at the fuse panel (in the driver's dash/kickpanel area)

I tried many different combinations before I settled on this. You can also source +12v at the ecu.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

similar to my setup:

Main - PPF
Heater - PPF
Outputs - ECU
Power - ECU
Cali - N/A

hustler

iTrader: (6)

So can I literally use the same wires as the MS for power and ground, or do I need to find (care to tell me where) where the MS/emc ground hits the chassis?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

i redid mine....it's got it's power and grounds right off my DB37 harness....