LowNSlo Turbo Goals: Intro and Shopping List
09-03-2018, 10:56 AM
#101
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The coolant funnel is really only necessary if you've replaced the thermostat. You can just fill it, run it while it overflows until the stat opens, this just makes all that process cleaner. If you're confident you've removed all the bubbles and your car is not over heating, you really don't need it unless you plan on replacing a lot of thermostats.
RMS is fairly easy to diagnose. If there's oil coming from the weep hole at the bottom of the bell housing and no where else above it, it's the RMS. If it's higher up on the bell housing, it's most likely from the valve cover or RMS. Make sure you clean your valve cover gasket surface really well, and RTV the six corners. If you're ever in doubt, brake clean the crap out of the entire engine, so there isn't any evidence of oil. Then go for a drive, doesn't sound like it'll need to be a long drive, and then look to see where it's leaking.
Resealing the oil pan is best done by pulling the engine. Its a fairly simple process, but like the valve cover, can be easily done incorrectly, despite using new parts. The baffle, pan, block, oil pump pickup flanges, and bolts all need to be incredibly clean and free of oil. RTV the entire surface, place your gaskets on each end, place the baffle in, put down another bead of RTV, bolt the pick up tube on, then slowly snug down the oil pan, torquing to spec eventually. One of the reasons I prefer to pull the engine rather than drop the subframe and do all this upside down, is that the transmission will be off, and it's a great opportunity to remove and reseal the RMS plate.
Head gasket is also fairly easy, once you've replaced everything to the point where you can clearly see that there's no oil on the cast aluminum head around the intake or exhaust manifold flanges, you'll see oil on the block below the head. It's not really any easier to do outside of the car, besides having easier access to a few of the bolts.
RMS is fairly easy to diagnose. If there's oil coming from the weep hole at the bottom of the bell housing and no where else above it, it's the RMS. If it's higher up on the bell housing, it's most likely from the valve cover or RMS. Make sure you clean your valve cover gasket surface really well, and RTV the six corners. If you're ever in doubt, brake clean the crap out of the entire engine, so there isn't any evidence of oil. Then go for a drive, doesn't sound like it'll need to be a long drive, and then look to see where it's leaking.
Resealing the oil pan is best done by pulling the engine. Its a fairly simple process, but like the valve cover, can be easily done incorrectly, despite using new parts. The baffle, pan, block, oil pump pickup flanges, and bolts all need to be incredibly clean and free of oil. RTV the entire surface, place your gaskets on each end, place the baffle in, put down another bead of RTV, bolt the pick up tube on, then slowly snug down the oil pan, torquing to spec eventually. One of the reasons I prefer to pull the engine rather than drop the subframe and do all this upside down, is that the transmission will be off, and it's a great opportunity to remove and reseal the RMS plate.
Head gasket is also fairly easy, once you've replaced everything to the point where you can clearly see that there's no oil on the cast aluminum head around the intake or exhaust manifold flanges, you'll see oil on the block below the head. It's not really any easier to do outside of the car, besides having easier access to a few of the bolts.
Basically my entire engine is covered in oil, and the subframe, and the trans. Like that when I got it. Can I just go crazy with the brake cleaner or is there anything I need to avoid getting it on? Sounds like a 2-3 can job... I'm off on Thursdays and Fridays so that will be my mission, to find leaks and replace any seals I can within that time. I could have my car down from Thursday to Sunday and just take the wife's car but hopefully I wont have to. I've got more research to do!
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09-03-2018, 11:29 AM
#102
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You can usually buy a box of 6-9 brake clean bottles at the auto parts stores, you'll need it all. Grab something to catch the fluid and please dispose of it properly. Start at the top and work your way down, otherwise you're wasting brake clean. Only thing you want to avoid is vertical cavities, which the only one I can think of is the spark plug holes, and harness connectors. Feel free to check the plug wire boots first, if they have oil on them, the only real source is a valve cover gasket. But really you want to start at the valve cover gasket seam and go down from there. Don't forget the bell housing top, sides, and bottom. My guess is your smoke is something burning on the exhaust (only thing truly hot enough to burn oil). The subframe isn't too important, as you're looking for oil that's on the head/block/bell housing. Then go for a ~50 mile cruise and see where the oil has reappeared.
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09-03-2018, 06:20 PM
#103
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Join Date: Oct 2017
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For what it's worth, i just buy cases of brake clean online for the best deals. 2 bucks a can and 12 of them is always nice. As they said above, just start from the top down and go to town. my miata was so insanely greasy i literally couldn't see the steering rack. after maybe 8 cans of brake clean most of my block is oil free.. until it starts leaking again for whatever reason.
my 1.6 has never stopped dripping oil no matter how many seals i replace and how many leaks i fix LOL.
my 1.6 has never stopped dripping oil no matter how many seals i replace and how many leaks i fix LOL.
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09-03-2018, 06:52 PM
#104
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I ran to Generic Automotive Parts Store #1 and got three cans of cleaner. I'm going to order some more via Amazon. I'm going to get the engine real good and trans best I can. My jack is currently being borrowed...
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09-05-2018, 07:33 AM
#105
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I found the leak I think. Looks like it's coming from my...
Everything. I took pics but I'm too depressed to upload them right now. The pan, sub frame, ac lines... everything remotely close the engine was absolutely drenched in thick, fresh oil. I had to add another 1/2 quart too.
I'ma try and borrow a hoist and stand a pull the engine next week and replace all the seals. I'll do the heater core hoses, Reroute, clutch, engine mounts, oil filter relocation, intake mani cleaning, O2 sensor, and general engine bay cleaning. If I have extra time (I won't) I'll probably do some dress up as well. I've never pulled an engine and I'm a bit nervous...
Everything. I took pics but I'm too depressed to upload them right now. The pan, sub frame, ac lines... everything remotely close the engine was absolutely drenched in thick, fresh oil. I had to add another 1/2 quart too.
I'ma try and borrow a hoist and stand a pull the engine next week and replace all the seals. I'll do the heater core hoses, Reroute, clutch, engine mounts, oil filter relocation, intake mani cleaning, O2 sensor, and general engine bay cleaning. If I have extra time (I won't) I'll probably do some dress up as well. I've never pulled an engine and I'm a bit nervous...
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09-05-2018, 07:42 AM
#106
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I never pulled an engine until I pulled my buddies 1.8 with him. Honestly very easy with some basic tools and en engine hoist. Don't forget to remove the shift turret assembly and to drain all the fluids before you make a mess.
My 1.6 likes to really leak from the cam seals despite being freshly replaced. I kinda just accepted it and leave some cardboard/plyboard in my driveway to catch the couple drops it leaks.
Have you considered just doing a 1.8 swap if you're going through all the work to pull the engine already? Certainly will gives you an HP bump and a better engine to boost in the future. The ONLY reason i boosted my 1.6 is because it was very healthy overall otherwise i would have swapped right away.
My 1.6 likes to really leak from the cam seals despite being freshly replaced. I kinda just accepted it and leave some cardboard/plyboard in my driveway to catch the couple drops it leaks.
Have you considered just doing a 1.8 swap if you're going through all the work to pull the engine already? Certainly will gives you an HP bump and a better engine to boost in the future. The ONLY reason i boosted my 1.6 is because it was very healthy overall otherwise i would have swapped right away.
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09-05-2018, 08:41 AM
#107
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I have... haven't found any around without buying a whole car and I can't afford a whole car. Honestly, my wife would flip if I dropped $300-$400 on an engine right now... she's baby crazy (two months to go).
I'm hoping I won't have to buy a hoist either but I haven't found one to borrow yet.
Right now I'll keep pouringmoney oil into it, try to keep the oil psi below 60, and rpms below 3k. So far I've got one work buddy, who knows even less than me about pulling an engine, that said he can help and that's it. None of the local miata BROs seem to eager to help. I'll try and take a bunch of pictures... wish me luck guys
I'm hoping I won't have to buy a hoist either but I haven't found one to borrow yet.
Right now I'll keep pouring
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09-05-2018, 01:24 PM
#108
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https://did-it-myself.com/removing-a-miata-engine/
Awesome guide. You'll want all of the tools listed except the thread chaser kit. Don't skip the load leveler.
Awesome guide. You'll want all of the tools listed except the thread chaser kit. Don't skip the load leveler.
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09-05-2018, 02:29 PM
#110
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Only things I saw that I did different than that was I left the alternator and intake mani brace on, as well as the cas and coil pack.
Also, you can pull the manifold and downpipe out together as one piece. Mine are welded together since they didn't want to seal.
And don't forget the ground by the dip stick.
Also, you can pull the manifold and downpipe out together as one piece. Mine are welded together since they didn't want to seal.
And don't forget the ground by the dip stick.
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09-05-2018, 10:37 PM
#111
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I probably will take the CAS off but yea Ima leave the DP alone... in other news my wife boss approved a budget of $500 "on a new engine".
BUT honestly, i think I'd be better with another diff instead. I'm hoping to pick up a torsen. I know it will be tough for that price but honestly anything I can pick up will better than my 1.6 open diff. I'm going to keep my eye open for a deal on either one but I'm moving forward on my original plan of doing the maintenance on the original 1.6, if I happen to be able to grab a 1.8 for a steal i will but id have to be a steal of a deal.
I still have to find a hoist either way (or buy one
)
I'm going to research and make sure I have everything ready and on hand. I'm going post a follow up with all the parts I'm planing to use and we'll make sure they all check out (mostly the re-route stuff)
BUT honestly, i think I'd be better with another diff instead. I'm hoping to pick up a torsen. I know it will be tough for that price but honestly anything I can pick up will better than my 1.6 open diff. I'm going to keep my eye open for a deal on either one but I'm moving forward on my original plan of doing the maintenance on the original 1.6, if I happen to be able to grab a 1.8 for a steal i will but id have to be a steal of a deal.
I still have to find a hoist either way (or buy one
)I'm going to research and make sure I have everything ready and on hand. I'm going post a follow up with all the parts I'm planing to use and we'll make sure they all check out (mostly the re-route stuff)
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09-06-2018, 01:33 PM
#114
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I have a separate checking account from when I was OTR but we are watching our pennies right now so it wouldn't do me any good... most of this money is cash I've got from doing computer/cell phone repair on the side (its hard paying for parts $20 at a time >_<).
I found a local place that has an engine hoist for rent for $25/5 hours and has a 2" ball hitch so i wont have to worry with a trailer. I'll just buy the harbor freight engine stand and either keep it or re sell it when I'm done.
I want to make sure I have everything right for the re-route: (remember 1.6)
I have this already: Skou reroute spacer
Hose: https://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...353998_0_10495
Kia neck: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Kia...75.c1#viTabs_0
Tstat block off: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mazda-Miata...e/223060659345
I have a new Tstat I just installed last week and I'll get another new gasket. It looks like though with that spacer I'll need to block the extra npt hole. I'm not really sure what I have on the stock set up though. Basically can anyone one confirm these will work for the 1.6?
Seals and Gaskets:
cam seals: https://www.autozone.com/internal-en.../73589_0_16574
crank seal: https://www.autozone.com/internal-en...ont/226778_0_0
valve cover seal: I already have CAS o-ring, rear main, and oil pan gasket. (all felpro except cas oring which is duralast)
also this: https://mossmiata.com/upgraded-shifter-rebuild-kits
I'm not sure if im up to doing the valve guide seals. When I did the timing it didn't look like the cams would be difficult to remove but I'm still nervous about trying to change them.
If I do/am convinced to do them i guess:
https://supermiata.com/Supermiata--v...s-miata-1.aspx
Think this puts me near the $300 mark >_<
plus hoist $50 hoist rental (two days), $50 engine stand AND eventually (very soon I'd hope) another $300 to buy everything to finish the turbo install... Looks like no torsen or engine in my near future...
Let me know if everything looks alright guys and I'll start ordering stuff so It'll be here by next week...
I found a local place that has an engine hoist for rent for $25/5 hours and has a 2" ball hitch so i wont have to worry with a trailer. I'll just buy the harbor freight engine stand and either keep it or re sell it when I'm done.
I want to make sure I have everything right for the re-route: (remember 1.6)
I have this already: Skou reroute spacer
Hose: https://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...353998_0_10495
Kia neck: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Kia...75.c1#viTabs_0
Tstat block off: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mazda-Miata...e/223060659345
I have a new Tstat I just installed last week and I'll get another new gasket. It looks like though with that spacer I'll need to block the extra npt hole. I'm not really sure what I have on the stock set up though. Basically can anyone one confirm these will work for the 1.6?
Seals and Gaskets:
cam seals: https://www.autozone.com/internal-en.../73589_0_16574
crank seal: https://www.autozone.com/internal-en...ont/226778_0_0
valve cover seal: I already have CAS o-ring, rear main, and oil pan gasket. (all felpro except cas oring which is duralast)
also this: https://mossmiata.com/upgraded-shifter-rebuild-kits
I'm not sure if im up to doing the valve guide seals. When I did the timing it didn't look like the cams would be difficult to remove but I'm still nervous about trying to change them.
If I do/am convinced to do them i guess:
https://supermiata.com/Supermiata--v...s-miata-1.aspx
Think this puts me near the $300 mark >_<
plus hoist $50 hoist rental (two days), $50 engine stand AND eventually (very soon I'd hope) another $300 to buy everything to finish the turbo install... Looks like no torsen or engine in my near future...
Let me know if everything looks alright guys and I'll start ordering stuff so It'll be here by next week...
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09-06-2018, 02:52 PM
#116
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changing out the keeper tool to this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/KD-Tools-KD...r/401586340371
the one i linked above is apparently for "larger" valves and this one is for "smaller" 4mm to 7mm
the one i linked above is apparently for "larger" valves and this one is for "smaller" 4mm to 7mm
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09-07-2018, 05:31 AM
#117
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changing out the keeper tool to this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/KD-Tools-KD...r/401586340371
the one i linked above is apparently for "larger" valves and this one is for "smaller" 4mm to 7mm
the one i linked above is apparently for "larger" valves and this one is for "smaller" 4mm to 7mm
Being broke was my first motivator to learning car maintenance and repair. Then a few years later I acquired a lot more tools, experience, and a much larger turbo for my Ford Fiesta. It took a few years, Rome wasn't turbo'd in a day.
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09-08-2018, 10:46 PM
#118
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Location: MS Gulf Coast
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The engine pulled is being postponed another week... but for a good reason. A friend of mine came through with a favor. I will have access to a complete lawn mower shop. As unexciting as that sounds, they also works on tractors, so they have a lift, several hoist, a ceiling crane on a track, a trans lift different, types of jacks, engine stands, and a ton of pneumatic tools.
TL;DR If I wait a week I'll have access to a full shop.
This week I'll try and get MS ready (still have to finish the harness) and rebuild the turbo. This way it won't feel like wasted time and hopefully stay motivated.
Still on the fence about doing the valve guide seals...
TL;DR If I wait a week I'll have access to a full shop.
This week I'll try and get MS ready (still have to finish the harness) and rebuild the turbo. This way it won't feel like wasted time and hopefully stay motivated.
Still on the fence about doing the valve guide seals...
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09-09-2018, 11:08 AM
#120
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I need a deal like that. I'd be happy with a 1.8 open diff deal right now though lol. A member here offered me a good deal but I'm having trouble finding the shafts/axles local and or reasonably priced. I'm keeping my eyes open though...
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