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Old 12-03-2015, 03:15 AM   #1
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Default NB2 intercooler routing suggestions (paging 18psi)

Hey All,

I've looked at many a intercooler photo, and it seems that routing on the 2001+ with A/C and P/S is the hardest. People seem to like 18psi's handy work, but those photos have since expired.

The intercooler I got has 2.25 inlets (despite advertising as 2.5). Is there any downside to changing diameters multiple times? The turbo outlet is 2.25, and some people go with 2 inch on the hot side, then the TB is 2.5. What if I put 2.25 as far as I could go on the hot side and then reduced to 2 inch if the fit is too tight before bumping up to 2.25 before the intercooler, then starting with 2.5 at the TB and reducing to 2.25 where I need to for fitment? Or just make my life easier with a 2 inch kit and the appropriate reducers?
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Old 12-03-2015, 04:37 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nigelt View Post
Hey All,

I've looked at many a intercooler photo, and it seems that routing on the 2001+ with A/C and P/S is the hardest. People seem to like 18psi's handy work, but those photos have since expired.

The intercooler I got has 2.25 inlets (despite advertising as 2.5). Is there any downside to changing diameters multiple times? The turbo outlet is 2.25, and some people go with 2 inch on the hot side, then the TB is 2.5. What if I put 2.25 as far as I could go on the hot side and then reduced to 2 inch if the fit is too tight before bumping up to 2.25 before the intercooler, then starting with 2.5 at the TB and reducing to 2.25 where I need to for fitment? Or just make my life easier with a 2 inch kit and the appropriate reducers?
You shouldn't have any trouble doing 2.25" all the way on an NB2. Use the holes behind the headlights.
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Old 12-03-2015, 05:59 AM   #3
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Narrower plumbing definitely makes routing easier.

What you want to avoid is downsizing in the chain from the turbine outlet to the TB, that'll throttle your airflow.

ie. If your turbine outlet is 2.25" and your intercooler barbs are 2.25", keep the hotside plumbing 2.25". For the coldside use 2.25" and a hose reducer elbow from your TB to the 2.25" coldside plumbing.
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Old 12-03-2015, 10:18 AM   #4
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I fit 2.5 behind the headlight, just needed a tiny bit of massaging.

2.25 all the way on both sides is totally fine, no need to make steps or change diameter several times
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Old 12-03-2015, 11:37 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
I fit 2.5 behind the headlight, just needed a tiny bit of massaging.

2.25 all the way on both sides is totally fine, no need to make steps or change diameter several times
Could you repost your routing photos? The left headlight has a hole that could just be enlarged, and I'm guessing you put a hole in the other side in the same place?
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Old 12-03-2015, 12:58 PM   #6
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Yeah, when I'm home.
nope, the cold side is "traditional" routing. I saw no reason to hack a hole when it's so easy to route as is.

I just enlarged the dr side hole and mimicked MSM routing with larger piping
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Old 12-03-2015, 03:07 PM   #7
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Old 12-03-2015, 03:12 PM   #8
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Old 12-03-2015, 03:13 PM   #9
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Thanks! I've got the same tires, and had the same wear on the front

18psi - is "traditional" routing on the cold side straight down from the TB, under the sway bar, and a 180 around the rad? Or something else?
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Old 12-03-2015, 03:16 PM   #10
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You don't have to do a 180 around the rad. I just did a 90 coupler to a 45* pipe, and it drops it right under the TB.
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Old 12-03-2015, 03:18 PM   #11
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Would I do either routing again? I don't know. Hot side makes more sense than cold side. Both may require a custom wastegate actuator bracket. I bought one online that did the job in the end. This one:
Garrett Actuator Wastegate Bracket Fits All GT25R GT28R GT30R GT35R GT40R GTX T3 | eBay


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Old 12-03-2015, 03:34 PM   #12
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