Is it possible to run engine in without making boost? - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 12-03-2010, 06:56 PM   #1
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Default Is it possible to run engine in without making boost?

The engines in bits waiting for a rebuild and putting an artech turbo system on the engine.
Do i leave the turbo sytem off the car and run engine in for first few hundread miles or can i run engine in with turbo system fitted if so how do i stop it making boost when iam flooring it to seal the rings????
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Old 12-03-2010, 07:14 PM   #2
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You could put the turbo kit on and disconnect the wastegate actuator from the wastegate so that it is in the OPEN position. this will allow MOST of the exhaust gas to bypass the turbo. I did this when I needed to pass emissions and needed to use the stock ecu.
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Old 12-03-2010, 08:24 PM   #3
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Yeah, just don't floor it. I can go days without hitting boost.
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Old 12-03-2010, 08:33 PM   #4
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Depends on the size of your turbo and how judiciously you use your right foot. It's pretty hard for me to keep my gt2560 out of boost while my cars warming up.
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Old 12-03-2010, 08:38 PM   #5
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wire open wastegate, take it easy.
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Old 12-03-2010, 09:17 PM   #6
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I know this has been brought up before, this seems too tempting.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

also
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm

Last edited by musanovic; 12-03-2010 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 12-03-2010, 11:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musanovic View Post
I know this has been brought up before, this seems too tempting.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Welcome to one of the most controversial motorsports pages on the internet !!

Gonna take some time to read this.
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Old 12-15-2010, 12:56 PM   #8
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put the aire filter directly onto your Intake Manifold and let the turbo boost alone and open your wastegate. I think that sounds faire enough....
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Old 12-15-2010, 01:07 PM   #9
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^^^^do NOT do this. you WILL overspin your turbo if it is not plumbed to anything on the compressor side.
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Old 12-15-2010, 01:14 PM   #10
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Sorry, i just realised What i just said, i thought at What someone Here did when he blew his turbo, he removed his Compressor side and the bearing housing and put a plate that fitted the bearing housing. This way, tue Exhaust gas were directly flowing to the downpipe .

Somehow, i think This Will be worthless for What you Wanna do.

Sorry again, i think about What i wrote and it doesn't make sens.
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Old 12-15-2010, 06:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by absRTP View Post
Sorry, i just realised What i just said, i thought at What someone Here did when he blew his turbo, he removed his Compressor side and the bearing housing and put a plate that fitted the bearing housing. This way, tue Exhaust gas were directly flowing to the downpipe .

Somehow, i think This Will be worthless for What you Wanna do.

Sorry again, i think about What i wrote and it doesn't make sens.
You have a thing about capital letters, huh?

That seems way too complicated. Prop open wastgate, stay out of boost. /thread
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Old 12-15-2010, 06:40 PM   #12
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Nothing except a french spellcheker onto my iPhone
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Old 12-16-2010, 12:00 AM   #13
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You can do what I did. EDIT* I fail at life. Ol buddy 3 posts up said it already
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Old 12-16-2010, 08:52 AM   #14
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I said it because I saw it somewhere on this big forum :P
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Old 12-16-2010, 10:49 AM   #15
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If you have an adjustable wastegate actuator, get it to as low as possible. I'd do the motoman style break in, been suggested by a lot of people I know whom are in [email protected] track and engine rebuilding, from one of them me said about 5 or so psi wouldn't harm anything running it through that break in.
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Old 12-16-2010, 08:50 PM   #16
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Check out joe gibbs racing break in oil, and run full boost as soon as its warm, get those rings seated right.
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Old 12-16-2010, 09:53 PM   #17
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I made a chart here, which very mathematically describes the amount of boost at break in with proportion of awesomeness of ring seal.



I don't think anyone has an idea which system is better then another for break in. There are too many variables, too many different ways to machine things, and too many different alloys to consider.

My thought is that there shouldn't be any real difference between FI and non-FI given you've got a good tune on the motor. If you leave the engine at something modest around 6PSI I can hardly believe that if there would be a difference at all between the two you'd see it at 6PSI.

What is more important is to avoid getting a bunch of metal shards into your turbo bearings and relief valve(oil pump). So good oil filter is required! Outside of that, I say abuse it, but I'm a satist...

(I've read about 10 different ways to break in a motor from "all the pros." NASCAR does it on an engine dyno and its excruciatingly harsh.)

Take it for what its worth!
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Old 12-17-2010, 01:33 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtothawhat View Post
Yeah, just don't floor it. I can go days without hitting boost.
Those are sad days.
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Old 12-17-2010, 02:35 PM   #19
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When i worked for The Shop CT we broke in all the shop race cars in buy warming them up then drain the oil once cold then rewarm them up put on dyno then tune them to the max then change oil again and done. never had a problem with any of the motors its also how i broke my motors in.
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