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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 11-21-2008, 10:02 AM   #1
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OK, now that I actually started to fab something, I'll start a build thread. Here's the beginning of my manifold. I have started coping two pieces to mate 2 & 3 to the 1-4 runners. Once I get a good fit, I'll mark and open the runners to mate them.

Here's also some pics of what I have accumulated so far. SR20 T25, FM T25 DP, FM 2 1/2" stainless midpipe, resonator and high flow cat. It has a Flowmaster muffler that looks to have been fluxcored on, along with some rice at the tip. This must go.

We have a new ACT HDSS clutch, a used Koyo radiator, AEM UEGO and ATi NB factory fit center mount guage pod. Oil feed line and oil line tap. I still need the -4an to turbo fitting. I went with 2 1/5" mandrel bent mild steel tubing so I can weld most of the run to minimize couplers. Probably going with CXRacing 18x12x3 IC. No pics of the Zoom3, as they haven't shipped yet.

I have a spare complete dropout 99 motor and trans, just in case.
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Old 11-21-2008, 11:14 AM   #2
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Some of that **** looks familiar ;-)

I'm glad that it will finally get to be used. Good luck Stien.
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Old 11-21-2008, 11:23 AM   #3
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Nice radiator....

What length oil feed line is that, and where did you get it? I'm thinking I'm gonna need a 5' line as I don't think a 4' will reach short of running it over the valve cover.

Manifold looks good.
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Old 11-21-2008, 11:28 AM   #4
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Nice radiator....

What length oil feed line is that, and where did you get it? I'm thinking I'm gonna need a 5' line as I don't think a 4' will reach short of running it over the valve cover.

Manifold looks good.
4' ran around the back of the motor fits great. I think mine is 46" and it's a little longer than I like. Fear not.
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Old 11-21-2008, 11:30 AM   #5
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When you get ready to open up that runner for 2 & 3 I would break the tack welds you have for 1 & 2, then with a small pencil die grinder you could get in and fine tune the interal fitment from both sides on that weld-el.
I'm jealous, I want to fab some parts now. I loved doing my downpipe in my apt parking spot.

Is the plan to build this mani to near FM sidemount spec so that downpipe fits or comes close to fitting with minimal mods?

Since you've starting from the ground up and no one likes to do things twice I'm going to suggest going with a T3 60 trim right now. I wasn't happy with my T25, do you really want to limit yourself to like 230 hp? Wouldn't you rather have similar spool to the T25 with the capability of more like 300 RWHP?
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Old 11-21-2008, 11:32 AM   #6
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4' ran around the back of the motor fits great. I think mine is 46" and it's a little longer than I like. Fear not.
That is awesome.
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Old 11-21-2008, 11:47 AM   #7
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When you get ready to open up that runner for 2 & 3 I would break the tack welds you have for 1 & 2, then with a small pencil die grinder you could get in and fine tune the interal fitment from both sides on that weld-el.
I'm jealous, I want to fab some parts now. I loved doing my downpipe in my apt parking spot.

Is the plan to build this mani to near FM sidemount spec so that downpipe fits or comes close to fitting with minimal mods?

Since you've starting from the ground up and no one likes to do things twice I'm going to suggest going with a T3 60 trim right now. I wasn't happy with my T25, do you really want to limit yourself to like 230 hp? Wouldn't you rather have similar spool to the T25 with the capability of more like 300 RWHP?

Couple of things,

The intersection between 2 and the #1 runner will only be about an inch inside of 2, so I will be able to reach it through the #2 runner. If I sharpie around the #2 where it meets #1, I will be able to pretty accurately port match before welding and touch up from the inside of #2 after welding.

I am hoping that it comes out pretty close, but I know I will be "lower" than the stock FM, as theirs steps up and mine will be "straight out" from the head, so I will likely have to do a bit of modding on the DP, but not much.

I will stick with the T25, as I will be limited to about 8 psi due to stock (or near stock) sized injectors because of the Zoom3. SOMEBODY(yeah, you) was going to build me a MS for my NB months ago, but he got busy and said he wasn't building them anymore. That would have taken care of that problem. The Zoom3 was the next thing to a PNP that was available without spending stupid money.

I may try to bump up to 305 Supra injectors after I get it going if I max the stock ones. Stephanie made 208WHP on the stock injectors with the Zoom3. If I could max the T25 and get 230 with the spool of the T25, I'd be thrilled.
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Old 11-21-2008, 11:50 AM   #8
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Nice radiator....

What length oil feed line is that, and where did you get it? I'm thinking I'm gonna need a 5' line as I don't think a 4' will reach short of running it over the valve cover.

Manifold looks good.
I guess I needed to open the box finally to look at the rad. The guy that sold it to me is kinda shifty, so I figured I had better check it out.

The line is supposed to be a 4 footer. Haven't checked. Bought it on the WTS board a few weeks ago for $20. Glad to hear from others that 4' will work.
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Old 11-21-2008, 12:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjernigan View Post
Since you've starting from the ground up and no one likes to do things twice I'm going to suggest going with a T3 60 trim right now. I wasn't happy with my T25, do you really want to limit yourself to like 230 hp? Wouldn't you rather have similar spool to the T25 with the capability of more like 300 RWHP?
Thats a .64/.80 T25. The one you had was smaller.
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Old 11-21-2008, 12:47 PM   #10
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Thats a .64/.80 T25.
I hope that's a good fit for a 1.8. It's not going to be laggy, is it?
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Old 11-21-2008, 12:49 PM   #11
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It won't be bad. You can always go to a smaller A/R turbine is you don't like it.
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Old 12-01-2008, 10:23 AM   #12
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Got #2 and #3 grafted on and the flange welded. I brought it to work to have one of the guys mill the flange. It only warped about 1/16" so I was pretty pleased with that.
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Old 12-01-2008, 11:46 AM   #13
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Looking good Stein. Looks like you're gonna beat me to turboing your car.
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Old 12-01-2008, 04:10 PM   #14
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looks good so far. man i hate doing those #2 and #3 runners like that.
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Old 12-01-2008, 04:13 PM   #15
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looks good so far. man i hate doing those #2 and #3 runners like that.
No doubt. Torch clearance was tight and a LOT of coping just to get them to fit. Your flanges are really nice. Thanks again.
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Old 01-05-2009, 09:36 AM   #16
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Finally bit the bullet and started on the car. I still don't have my Zoom3, so I hope they are close.

Did a quick test fit on the mani/turbo/DP. As I anticipated, there were some minor fitment issues with the DP, but nothing I can't correct.
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Old 01-05-2009, 09:42 AM   #17
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Got the clutch in but I can't get the damn tranny back in. I fought with it for a couple of hours last night.

I tried using my homemade tranny jack mostly, then finally lay on my back with the bell housing on my knees and tail in my hands trying to do it by hand. It won't go the last 1/2". Gave up and called it a night. I'll try again tonight. If anyone has any suggestions, I'm all ears.

I never pulled the tranny from under the car. Just moved it back as far as I could on my ghetto China jack with attachments. Plenty of room to install the clutch.

Also, a couple of quickie ghetto tools that helped.

Scrap parts bearing puller and scrap metal flywheel holder that bolted in place to hold the flywheel while breaking loose and torquing the clutch bolts.
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Old 01-05-2009, 11:14 AM   #18
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I had pure hell getting mine to go the last 1/2" too. I'd clean the dowel pins and their recieving holes and lube them up. You have to get the two surfaces perfectly parallel and then hold the transmission so that when the dowel tries to allign, it's not pushing up or pulling down on the bellhousing. Once you get it nuetral, it snaps together with some wiggling. Also, if you can get say 3-4 bolts LOOSELY started, it will help you get it alligned. As you can push up till the bolts let it jam, then down till the bolts let it jam, and then put it in the middle and that's the middle.
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Old 01-05-2009, 11:19 AM   #19
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oh the half inch tranny gap, how we all hate you!

there are only a few things that will stop the tranny:

1. release bearing against fingers
2. input shaft into pilot bearing
3. dowels around bell housing
4. that @#$%$ bell housing gasket
5. starter
6. several wires and hard lines at the top of the bell housing that fall down between the motor and tranny
7. the angle of the dangle

I'll second the "get a few long bolts in" and wiggle suggestion. just dont use the bolts to draw the **** together or you could end up with bad juju.
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Old 01-05-2009, 11:50 AM   #20
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Nice job on the mani.

DIY SSTs FTW

It seems like every time I try to use a jack to put the tranny in, I always end up underneath it in bench press mode to get the proper "angle of the dangle".
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