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Old 01-05-2009, 05:03 PM   #21
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looking good stein..my mani is coming out really similar to yours, though I had to point mine at a 45 degree angle for turbo to clear....I keep staring at yours, and CANNOT figure out how the hell yours points straight to the side and still clears the car. I guess my turbo is that much bigger? looking good man
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Old 01-05-2009, 05:16 PM   #22
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looking good stein..my mani is coming out really similar to yours, though I had to point mine at a 45 degree angle for turbo to clear....I keep staring at yours, and CANNOT figure out how the hell yours points straight to the side and still clears the car. I guess my turbo is that much bigger? looking good man
I don't know if you noticed, but I angled "inwards" the two outer els. They aren't 90*, more like 75-80* They swoop in and then turn back out. I took off about 3/8" of the "inner" edge of the #1 and #4 els.

From inner edge of the flange to inner edge of the other flange is less than 4". If you did straight 90 into 90, it would be about an inch longer.
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Old 01-05-2009, 05:25 PM   #23
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we took off exactly the same amount off #1 and #4 as you, otherwise it doesnt match up at all. we used your mani build pics as guidance/step by step instructions
then we measured, it was exactly 4" from head flange to turbo flange, and my turbo is about 6" in diameter from flange to other side, and no matter what we could not get the measurements to allow us to point the header straight to the side.

oh well, I wont waste your time since yours fits just fine lol....if you're ever bored or what not, can you measure the diameter of the whole turbocharger from turbo flange to its other side? I'm really curious whether you were able to do what you did because the turbocharger is much smaller and clears the car.
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Old 01-05-2009, 05:40 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by y8s View Post
oh the half inch tranny gap, how we all hate you!

there are only a few things that will stop the tranny:

1. release bearing against fingers
2. input shaft into pilot bearing
3. dowels around bell housing
4. that @#$%$ bell housing gasket
5. starter
6. several wires and hard lines at the top of the bell housing that fall down between the motor and tranny
7. the angle of the dangle

I'll second the "get a few long bolts in" and wiggle suggestion. just dont use the bolts to draw the **** together or you could end up with bad juju.
I agree with all of your suggestions and I disagree with the "don't use bolts to draw the **** together."

If you have about a half inch gap left, the trans is straight and nothing is interfering, put a tranny bolt in the 3 o clock and 9 o clock position and pull it the rest of the way in. I've done it many times with zero issues.
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Old 01-05-2009, 05:43 PM   #25
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I agree with all of your suggestions and I disagree with the "don't use bolts to draw the **** together."

If you have about a half inch gap left, the trans is straight and nothing is interfering, put a tranny bolt in the 3 o clock and 9 o clock position and pull it the rest of the way in. I've done it many times with zero issues.
Is it just that tight in the pilot bearing? I can't imagine that the input shaft wouldn't just slide in. I know that the splines must be engaged in the clutch disc to get that close.

I'll be trying again tonight.
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Old 01-05-2009, 05:47 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
we took off exactly the same amount off #1 and #4 as you, otherwise it doesnt match up at all. we used your mani build pics as guidance/step by step instructions
then we measured, it was exactly 4" from head flange to turbo flange, and my turbo is about 6" in diameter from flange to other side, and no matter what we could not get the measurements to allow us to point the header straight to the side.
Hmmm...I guess I just got lucky. I just made it and hoped that it would fit. It is only a little T25, so it clears the inner chassis by about 1/2".

I only have to make one (or two) cuts in the stock DP to move it to where I need it. Waiting on that until I get the tranny back in and the rest of the FM exhaust in to see where the flanges end up.
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Old 01-05-2009, 05:52 PM   #27
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Is it just that tight in the pilot bearing? I can't imagine that the input shaft wouldn't just slide in. I know that the splines must be engaged in the clutch disc to get that close.

I'll be trying again tonight.
Check and make sure your pilot bearing didn't pop out. When you try it again later tonight, make sure the trans is straight and line it up with the holes. If the trans is slightly off, rotate it.
Lightly lube the input shaft and make sure the clip on the back of the throwout is fully in place.

Just two weeks ago, we had a customer car in the shop. One of the trans bolts had snapped in half and it made it a bitch and a half to get back in. Once we got it aligned, I pulled it in with a couple of bolts on the sides and two on top. I also had help, though.
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Old 01-06-2009, 10:14 AM   #28
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Thanks for the help guys. Just needed to know that I was on the right track. Installed the two dowel pin bolts, leveled the tranny up and it drew right in.

Got the FM midpipe, resonator and muffler installed so that I could start modifying the downpipe. at least the PO that did the hack job on the muffler had the hangers in the stock positions. I was pleasantly surprised to see that I was within 1/2" of the DP being right where it needed to be. I cut the downpipe, bolted the top half to the turbo and the rest to the midpipe and am in the process of modifying it to fit. As it sits now, the "down" part of the downpipe passes about 1/4" from the steering column. Is that enough clearance?
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Old 01-13-2009, 10:52 AM   #29
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Minor update. I got the DP to fit this weekend. Had to cut and reweld the first section at a different angle and add a 1" section to the lower portion. Everything fits fine with about 1/2" clearance on the subframe. I just need to pick up a gasket for the DP-to-midpipe joint and exhaust is done.

Installed the IC that I got from Prospero. It was a bolt-in fit. I was very pleased. It had aluminum brackets welded on that mount to two of the tow hook bolts. Very clean install.

Laid out the charge pipe routing and ordered the silicone couplers, t-clamps BOV, etc from siliconeintakes.com this morning.

Installed the Koyo that I got from patsmx5 last night. It really was a drop in fit. Really nice construction. I had to modify both fans a bit for clearance. Notched for the upper radiator hose on the AC fan and lower corner to miss the PS cooling loop. I also had to flatten the tab and add a hole to the radiator upper supports to fit.
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Old 01-14-2009, 09:45 AM   #30
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Gasket for flange wasn't in stock, so couldn't finish the exhaust last night. It will be in today, so I worked on a few other things.

Got the turbo clocked to work with my mani. Built a spacer for the outlet neck as it was hitting the WG can. Fabbed a flange for the inlet side of the compressor. That's about it last night.

All hail the mighty homemade double barrel wood stove! It was 0*F last night with a 40 mph wind. Shop was a toasty 75*F.
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Old 01-14-2009, 10:02 AM   #31
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looking great man...any pictures of the whole engine bay? like from the top? I want to see how everything is looking with the dp connected and the intercooler piping connected
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Old 01-14-2009, 10:18 AM   #32
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looking great man...any pictures of the whole engine bay? like from the top? I want to see how everything is looking with the dp connected and the intercooler piping connected
I hope to get some tonight when I get the turbo and DP back in. Props for siliconeintakes.com. Placed my order at 8:00 yesterday and had a tracking number on my shipment by 8:24. I should see them tomorrow. Then I can start on the charge pipes. I have it pretty well laid out in my head. This IC is kind of a funky shape for the inlet and outlet. After I got in mounted I saw why. They took advantage of a gap between the PS lines that I hadn't seen. I kept looking inside the engine bay. The "In" line will go out through the fender along the frame and into the IC from the outside. It will be pretty clean. The "out" side is two 90's and a straight pipe under the radiator. Also looks like it will be pretty clean to do. I don't know who made the IC. I got it from Prospero here: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t29643/ In the pic it is upside down. The "In" side is the elbow pointing down. The "Out" side is the long straight but it runs along the bottom in front of the radiator. The long tube positions it perfectly for a simple 90* elbow under the radiator and another 90* up to the throttle body.
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Old 01-14-2009, 10:22 AM   #33
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cant wait for pics. I just might have to copy your routing

either that or I'm going to get crazy and do the over-the-radiator piping I was planning all along
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Old 01-14-2009, 10:24 AM   #34
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Revised my description a bit for clarity. It is going to be clean without having to cut the car, other than one hole in the fender. No notching in the structural areas.
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Old 01-14-2009, 10:32 AM   #35
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[QUOTE=Stein;349029]Finally bit the bullet and started on the car. I still don't have my Zoom3, so I hope they are close.
QUOTE]

looks good, i am curious to see how the Zoom3 works, like you, i am going that route too
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Old 01-20-2009, 01:17 PM   #36
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IC charge pipes and intake are DONE. Well, done again, as I forgot to weld in my BOV valve nipples in the air inlet and IC pipes before priming them the first time. Everything fits as planned, other than I lost my cruise control. Filter is up by the clutch master cylinder. Cool air FTW. Yeah, I know, pics or it didn't happen. The paint is drying as we speak. Will be assembling tonight and will take pics. If it (primer and paint) doesn't hold up, it's off to the powercoater I go.

Oil pan is tapped. Waiting on one gasket from Tuner Toys for oil drain (the one in the kit was wrong) and an oil feed fitting from ATPTurbo. Still a list of piddly little things but the big stuff is done. Still waiting on my Zoom 3.
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Old 01-22-2009, 09:40 AM   #37
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OK, lots of pics of the IC charge pipe and intake setup. It's not done because some idiot (me) can't count and order the right amount of T-Clamps.
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Old 01-22-2009, 09:45 AM   #38
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wow man, that is a very interesting way you routed your ic piping. I honestly have never seen it done this way before. lookin good
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Old 01-22-2009, 09:51 AM   #39
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Thanks. I was kind of married to the "over the top" discharge due to the clocking of the turbo with wastegate and a side mount compressor housing. Obviously, the SR20 T25 was designed to top or bottom mount.
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Old 01-22-2009, 09:54 AM   #40
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when did you place your order for a zoom3 man? seems like it takes them years to get something out to people..
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