hustler

iTrader: (6)

daddy has a lift, I just pull the trans.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Dont pull a Loki and drill/tap too far:

TURNS101

iTrader: (10)

It already has a drain???

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

of course it does

miatamania

iTrader: (9)

Yeah. This method sucked hardcore.

miatamania

iTrader: (9)

I touched my pickup, but did not cut through...

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

get taller jackstands, an impact wrench, a few extensions, and a friend.

dropping a tranny is easy, removing the motor, while in itself is easy as well, is more of a pain IMO.


I mean I literally only have to:

remove the DP (5 bolts)
drain tranny
remove the bell housing bolts (11)
remove the slave (2 bolts)
remove the shift **** (unscrew)
remove the shift boots (6 bolts)
remove the driveshaft (4 bolts)
remove the PPF bolts (2)


then it's dropping time. Last time I swapped my clutch out it was 2 hours on the dot, three the week before. Takes me about an hour or two to get the motor ready to pull, and I'm left with a garage full of parts and bolts. In general, to me, it's more of a pita.

If you need to pull the motor to tap your pan, you need a small asain friend or something...

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Might hit the baffle first.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I'm trying olderguy's method of pulling the engine only and leaving the transmission in the car, still attached and properly aligned to the PPF. Got everything unbolted. Everything. Just need to hook the picker up and ****** it out. That will be for tomorrow.

Questions: What do yall use on the oil pan for a gasket. I know Mazda used some fancy **** that's like JB Weld/RTV. Really good stuff that never leaks. And I know RTV will likely leak. So what's the best I can buy as far as sealant for the oil pan?

Also, anyone here reuse the old pilot and T/O bearings? I now know the car has had a clutch put in it before so they aren't the factory parts. Probably ~3-4 years old and 50K tops on the parts if I had to guess. Not planning on changing them unless they're shot when I pull it apart. I know this summer I'll be pulling the engine again anyways for a built motor.

Ordered the oil pan seal things and a clutch alignment tool today, should be here in the morning. Hope to pull the engine, have that fitting welded on to the pan, install new clutch, and put the motor back in tomorrow. Then cut some of the car for the intercooler pipes and work on downpipe. Once all that's done, I'm home free.

NA6C-Guy

iTrader: (1)

You could get fancy and cut your own gasket from that rubber/paper DIY gasket stuff, then coat both sides with a thin layer of RTV. I just used plain RTV, it didnt leak for the whole 10-15 miles I made it

I would never try to reuse t/o or pilot bearing myself. They dont cost much, and I would be super pissed to get it all back together and have a slight rattle or some other kind of noise. Hell, my brand new t/o and pilot bearing is making some noise. I think its the fork, the t/o bearing is rattling loose on it at idle or driving with the clutch disengaged.

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

I used the grey RTV, I forget the designation. I would replace the t/o and pilot bearing especially if you know they are not OEM for the reasons above. I have had non-OEM t/o bearings fail.

Tougelabs

An has an oil pan bung that goes for about 15 dollars. I never came across it till the s2000 setup i just finished for a client. I'll try to find a picture of it, but it made life really easy and so far its not leaking on the s2k

akaryrye

iTrader: (5)

dont forget to support the transmission pat, its an easy thing to forget about, but when the motor is pulled out the only thing holding it up for a second is the spline on the transmission, then when it gets pulled out, whammy! the transmission could just fall out. I suggest having a jack under the transmission so you can adjust it and keep the load off of the drive spline.

curly

iTrader: (25)

+1 on having a non-oem TO bearing fail. At least you can still drive, I had to make it 25 miles home from work by starting the engine in first and shifting without disengaging the clutch.

haha, I have three of those clutch alignment tools. one from the OEM clutch I put in, one from the stupid ebay clutch that blew up, and one from the spec clutch that's in there now.

This should answer your question, looks like hot ****. I used orange rtv and it sealed fine, its ugly though, and this stuff looks better.
Targa Miata

kenzo42

iTrader: (6)

I find this amusing.

NA6C-Guy

iTrader: (1)

Anyone ever had a non OEM pilot or t/o bearing make noise right away? I had a Prelude once that had a problem with the aftermarket t/o bearing making some noise as soon as the install was done and I was driving it for the first time. Same goes with my new ACT clutch. The little bit I got to drive it I could hear some rattle from the t/o bearing. They should supply OEM with their kits if they are that poor of quality. Im going to take my chances with the pilot bearing though. The fit was soooo tight. Im scared to mess with it any more. Its in and straight and seems to be smooth and quiet.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

black RTV.
I'd might as well change the TOB, pilot is more than likely fine.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Done. And it was a bitch.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

dont you hate those cheap *** tapping tools? I always go the socket method too.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I'll tell you what I really hate. When I was in high school in machine shop, I made some tools. Made a punch that had a weight you could lift, then drop, and it made the punch mark. I even knurled the weight and oil hardened the tip. No hammer required and greater precision. Also made a 3 way air splitter for air hoses. And also made a tap T handle like the one in the picture. Only mine was big, beefy, and perfect. Would hold a 1" NPT tap. (3/4" NPT in pic)

And hurricane Katrina took them all away. Yeah, chineese **** sucks.