scored a toyo racing radiator for 150$
just needed some TLC




cleaning it and sanding it down






it looked good but....i hate shiny metal...so..




removed my crappy slimfan and replaced it with the OEM fan..but first..it needed to be cleaned




as i said, cna't stand shiny stuff..so it'll be getting the black out treatment




final product

 

replaced the BOV because it was fluttering..but again..to shiny..so blacked out it is





cleaned the wheels with oven cleaner....i could not believe my eyes...grime just basically fell off




day pic


moved out into a new house..with a garage
first thing to move in was the baby


new torsen...i heard is a pain to install but i've done worse....

 

some updates:
decided that if i was ever going to go on a long trip, i should have a radio.
so i installed an AMP


swapped suspension from NA to NB with tophats. it raised the car quiet a bit but it rides so much better on non-blown shocks




removed the plastic lining on the doors and cleaned the goo


proof that the car is not always parked:


500 miles on the break in


further cleaning the wheels

 

wasn't happy with my control plate and the loctaion of the start button
so switched things a bit

 

windows would be really slow coming down and going up. figured they needed cleaning


the guides were gone, so i went i bought some of the spacers to fix it



assembled spacer:


rmeoved the stupid tinted window as well


small video of how the siwtches work

 

decided to roll back the miles to match my engine break in miles.
don't worry, i wrote down the current mileage somehwre safe

small step by step
remove cluster
remove cluster clear plastic (has to come off with black bezel)
remove 4 screws holding the gauge (two are big, two small)
rmeove the niddle
rmeove the trip numbers
remove the rod keeping the plastic tabs from turning
with a flat head, bend back where the middle rod is being held.
somehow rmeove the al the numbers

play around with them until you figure out how to turn them back.
it took me a min but i figure dit out..just too hard to explain.
put back together.

 

taking her out for a spin..

 

time to build a heatshield
being that i am so ****ing cheap and love DYI, i decided to do the license plate mod.



final product


then, fuel pump failure. doesn't turn on


turne dout to be wiring issue. the plug overheated and stopped making a connetcion.
thank god for AAA, otherwise it would've been a dumb expensive mistake.


you can not see it, bu the RED on the left connector wa smelted inside.


fixed that and got my pressure back up...plus my blood pressure down


has a random awesome guy make me a shiftknob.

just gotta figure out a way to make it weighted,

looks cool tho..actually..looks awesome

 

Isn't ODO rollback, um, highly illegal?

Depleted uranium maybe? Heh, neat **** though. I wish I had access to a lathe and the time to do that kind of stuff.

 

only illegal if:
1. i sell the car and claim it has 1000 miles.
2. i sell the car and state it has less miles than it does.

i wrote down the actual mileage in the cluster so if you remove it you'll be able to add both and get actual chassis mileage.
i also highly doubt anyone will believe me when i say my car has 1000 miles

 

Its not illegal in Texas if the car milage is labeled EXEMPT which most if not all NA miatas here are because of age.

 

Similar here in Florida. Most if not all NA's nowadays are mileage exempt around here.

 

Thanks guhys, I appreciate the edumication. Note to self: Do not trust mileage on cars that have been registered in FL and TX

 

In TX always always always get a leak down or at least a compression test before buying a car.

 

Many states work the same way... Over something like 10 years old in TN, the mileage is marked EXEMPT (or similar) when you transfer the title for a sale. This applies even if the mileage is known to be accurate on the speedometer.

 

tackling my fuel issue, i decided to rewire the pump with thicker wire.
this is the wire that took a crap:


the blue wire is what will be replacing

Stock: 16AWG
New: 12AWG
drilled two holes to pass the wires through. i will be installing little grommets to protect the wire


the grommets:


since the wire wasn't thick enough to fill the hole and i dind't want to use any kind of glue or epoxy, i opted to wrap a piece of heatwrap around the cable to make it thicker.
i should'vd gone for smaller grommets or thicker wire but this is what i had to work with so whatever






i opted to install these butt connectors. i kept them this way as to never be able to connect them backwards

 

 

hanging out with a friend's boosted NB with the mazdaspeed setup


decided to wrap the switchboard in black vinyl


this is my idea for the doors.
i won't be installing door cards but i want the armrest
i will be painting it black as well as the inside of the door black.


the limited slip install crusade










cleaning the bolts


playing with backlash and understanding how it works

 

finally finished my torsen install and out i went.
paid version of MS to help me tune!


fixed the door cards and cleaned them up a bit.
wrapped the black arm rest in vinyl






then went out for a drive

 

installed AEM gauge in the clutser