Turbo reliability: What has broken? How can you prevent it from happening again? - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 02-01-2010, 09:29 AM   #21
Boost Czar
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,900
Total Cats: 1,792
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nagase View Post
So, what have you broken? How can you stop it from ever happening again?
Beside a motor? not much, I blew out a coupler once. Everything else that has failed or needed repair was fault of my superior mechanical abilities.
Braineack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2010, 09:55 AM   #22
MT Pony Underground
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
Nagase's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,811
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chicksdigmiatas View Post
What they are all trying to say is that if your running 20 psi on a stock engine, your gonna break stuff, 10 psi done correctly not so much. 10 psi with bandaids, you will break stuff. How much stuff you break is up to you. You never did specify what your goals are, perhaps being more open in that area would help us tell you what you need to beef up.
That's not relevant to the question that I asked in this thread. If you're not posting what broke, and how to prevent it, you're not doing it right.
Nagase is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2010, 10:13 AM   #23
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,114
Total Cats: 351
Default

Read my build thread and SavingAIDS' build thread. I'm by no means the fastest guy on here, but I've had my share of reliability problems on the track, but I've been through a few major problems and everything seems to work now aside from the brakes.
hustler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2010, 11:30 AM   #24
Junior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Lisle, IL
Posts: 296
Total Cats: 0
Default

Stock 1.6L clutch started slipping after about 10,000 miles of "nice" driving at 8psi.
Replaced stock 1.6L front brakes with 94+ caliper brackets, aftermarket discs and pads
Getting ready to replace stock 1.6L 6" rearend with 7" 94+ rearend so I can "launch" car
Smoked one stock NB O2 sensor running lean/pig rich with my "bandaids"
Smoked one AFM when re-installing turbo & intake piping (my dumbass mistake, not turbo's fault!)

If I had it to do over again, I'd probably start with a 94 or 95 (1.8L base with bigger brakes & rearend) and immediately install a Megasquirt, big injectors and a wideband. Once I had the MS sorted out and real solid NA tune, I'd do an Ebay Chinacharger with a CSX Racing intercooler kit. YMMV.
sn95 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2010, 11:39 AM   #25
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Lenexa, KS
Posts: 129
Total Cats: 0
Default

My 250k mile Torsen differential after fresh bearings, apparently didn't like being launched after I installed the turbo...kaboom.

Most of the stuff on my car that has broken was just stuff that prob needed to be replaced since it has 262k miles on it, only thing mechanical left that is stock is the transmission and axles.
crnrhrd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2010, 12:02 PM   #26
Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 1,780
Total Cats: 30
Default

My OEM clutch gave in at 8psi. Other than the occasional hiccup, no issues.
Jeff_Ciesielski is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2010, 12:18 PM   #27
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
 
Joe Perez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Delicious and Moist.
Posts: 26,328
Total Cats: 1,926
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nagase View Post
That's not relevant to the question that I asked in this thread. If you're not posting what broke, and how to prevent it, you're not doing it right.
Well, check out the attitude on the new guy.

We don't keep a lot of secrets around here. Folks have turned their diffs into metal salad, bent rods in all three axis at the same time, cracked pistons in half, poked holes in the side of their engine block, etc. I don't think I've seen any cranks which were actually broken in half, but that's about the only thing I haven't seen.

But like Sav said, it's mostly about not being an idiot. If you run a 1.6-size R&P, or if you do drag launches, then you'll break your diff. If you don't do these things, then you won't break your diff. Simple.

Likewise, all the piston / rod / block failures are mostly due to stupidity. Bad tune, inadequate fuel system, too much boost, etc. If you built it to last, and tune it to last, it'll last. If you cheap out or do a hack job of it, expect to see Mr. Rod open a window for himself in your engine.

This ain't a big mystery.
Joe Perez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2010, 01:09 PM   #28
meatbag
iTrader: (50)
 
gospeed81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 7,357
Total Cats: 26
Default

My current motor has some dead *** rings on it, and is chewing through a quart of oil for every tank of gas.

Solution...don't let your dipshit brother borrow your car.

In reality this is mechanical empathy. I know my car, know my tune, and know how hard to push. He didn't...and treated it like his sportbike.

Every other problem was fixed with some datalogging or changing settings in MS.

The first motor in this car died of overheating. Fixes on that are well documented. It now has a PWR radiator, coolant reroute, and some shrouding. Soon to have a hole in the hood.
gospeed81 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2010, 01:11 PM   #29
Boost Czar
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,900
Total Cats: 1,792
Default

shouldn't have blown if the tune was good regardless of abuse...
Braineack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2010, 01:24 PM   #30
meatbag
iTrader: (50)
 
gospeed81's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 7,357
Total Cats: 26
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
shouldn't have blown if the tune was good regardless of abuse...
The only part of the tune I fucked up on was leaving the soft rev limit at 7200rpm.

I though my tune was bulletproof as well...but he admitted to "very high rpm" usage. I'm expecting to see a lot of nice, shiny, blue metal parts upon postmortem.


I hear ya though, and am still scratching my head. To be honest it was a mystery motor anyhow ($150 CL find), and I imagine that the rings were already heading south. As compression gradually got worse, the motor saw higher cylinder pressures for the same load....rendering my previously conservative spark map dangerous.

When he brought it back my OP gauge was dancing around, and there was audible knock where there previously was none. I've dialed boost control back down to 8psi, and the whole spark advance table back 15%. Now everything is fine.


I guess you could say that this could have been prevented with a higher integrity motor, and that we should occasionally run a compression test in order to prevent damage due to detonation. I think the motor went into a nasty cycle of light det>chewed up ring lands>lower compression>more det, and ******** kept wailing on it.
gospeed81 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2010, 02:36 AM   #31
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,086
Total Cats: 30
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealth97 View Post
I had a supercharger for three years... I could see why someone would go back N/A.
(seriously those belts would drive me insane)
Quote:
Originally Posted by chicksdigmiatas View Post
What they are all trying to say is that if your running 20 psi on a stock engine, your gonna break stuff, 10 psi done correctly not so much. 10 psi with bandaids, you will break stuff. How much stuff you break is up to you. You never did specify what your goals are, perhaps being more open in that area would help us tell you what you need to beef up.
Nobody here is retarded enough to **** out a random psi figure and say to stay below that.

Last edited by albumleaf; 02-02-2010 at 03:04 AM.
albumleaf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2010, 02:45 AM   #32
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Southlake,Texas
Posts: 3,251
Total Cats: 17
Default

Update: My alternator bolt backed out today. Damn turbo.
Bond is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2010, 09:08 AM   #33
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 161
Total Cats: 0
Default

When I was N/A had to replace the axles, alternator, timing belt and by then I said what the hell and installed fresh piston rings and rod bearings. A few days later took the cylinder head to a machine shop for some well deserved cleaning now that the engine had been opened, and a new water pump on the works. A few more weeks later and a new clutch and pressure plate with resurfaced lightened factory flywheel, Oil catch can, new sway bar poly bushings and poly mounts.

By then the starter and clutch slave decided to not work anymore. As time passed by the rear struts were useless which one visit to the junkyard made me discover KYB struts in another Mazda.

Since I have gone turbo WITH bandaids, ready or not here it is... An APEX SAFC, Innovate wideband and the low budget DIY Knock sound amplifier, my only problem has been a ghetto worm clamp which has been replaced with T-Bolt clamps, so far car is running fine for about 4 months now at 10 psi.

I do agree that sometimes I do miss the N/A setup, before it felt like a go-kart that I could toss around and felt with much more control on its powerband, now its like a little beast that in two shifts I am already over the speed limit, but still it is a lot of fun to drive as well.

BUT on my first setup I blew two engines with a Rx7 turbine with a swapped turbo housing to .48. It would always blow the piston rings of 1 and 4, and ate up the Stage II Centerforce clutch.

Last edited by psiturbo; 02-02-2010 at 09:34 AM. Reason: JDMPOWELOL
psiturbo is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Another Cast Manifold Corky Bell Prefabbed Turbo Kits 18 11-22-2016 10:01 PM
WTB MP62 (Hotside) (NB2) Rick02R WTB 3 01-03-2016 08:18 PM
ISO 1.6 turbo cast iron manifold cale saurage DIY Turbo Discussion 16 10-01-2015 12:25 PM
Leaky Wilwoods mx592 Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain 1 10-01-2015 01:45 AM


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:17 AM.