Bellwilliam hasn't posted the dyno plot, but he said that without the moderate restrictor they were running, his car went to 280 at the wheels.

OP: screw budgets. Pull your 401k and your IRAs (which you, as a smart young man, have been contributing to right?) and go LS swap. All the torquez!

 

Mark,

Welcome to the forum. You've definitely come to the right place to find the information you're looking for.

Perhaps you can give us some more specifics. You've mentioned low-budget, but not HOW low. You also haven't elaborated on your fab skills or shop abilities.

Have you ridden in a boosted Miata? If you want to know what 250whp in a Miata feels like, come out to Saline on a nice day (if we get one soon...) and come for a ride in my car. If you want to know what 200whp feels like, contact Erat and he may take you for a ride (he's on the outskirts of Detroit and has a very, very well done FM2 car, but he's put it up for the winter).

You're gonna need engine management, and I think MS offers the best blend of affordability and tunability with great support. figure $500 or so for this. You'll need this whichever way you go.

From here, top tier would be an MP62 for your needs. Instant power, and you'll be able to make your power goals. It ain't gonna be cheap though, 2-3k minimum I would think.

Second choice would be a small ball-bearing turbo. You could find a good used one probably in the $4-500 range, then buy a manifold for another $250-400 and fab a downpipe or so. Either way, for the turbo hardwares plus intercooler and stuff you could squeak under $1500 I would think.

Third choice would be a used small journal bearing turbo. This will spool very very quickly, but not quite as quickly as the small ball-bearing turbo. There's a great turbo setup for a 1.6 for sale in the classifieds right now: ARTech manifold, greddy turbo, etc and it's really really affordable. If your budget is low low, I would go this route because you're getting some quality parts for crazy prices, and that's a great manifold.

This is my take on it. Good luck!

 

I'll give you a ride come spring if you can wait.

I'd have to agree with the MP62, if it's in your budget. It's going to be a bit more expensive than a DIY turbo setup.

Now as far as turbo's go, i'd have to suggest a cast manifold with locking hardware. Just completely eliminating as many welds as possible is probably your best bet for reliability. Cast manifold, cast turndown on a gt2554 will net you quick spool. It's not a V8, and you're not drag racing you don't need to make boost at 2000rpm.

Run Megasquirt.

 

are you guys really suggesting a rotrex?

 

No. Somebody did and they have been dealt with accordingly.

 

OP comes in here and says he has VERY modest power goals, wants maximum control, and rock solid reliability when abusing the car on gravel roads and what-not.

Please tell me what about the rotrex doesn't fit those goals.

School me.

 

He also mentioned cost. Rotrex pretty spendy, no?

 

Yeah, and then also mentioned he wants lowend torque (which makes no sense to me since the car is just going to spin/slide like he 1st said).

Its whatever. Just trying to give honest input. A heaton will be just as spendy. The FFS crap is like 4 grand lol

 

Yeah... I think most important question is what his budget really is. If he can't afford even a used SC kit then there's not much point in figuring out which is best.

 

I'm budgeting around 3k, but that has to include an engine rebuild, clutch, possible lightened flywheel. I'm thinking something around 1500-2k would be a good assumption.

 

lol

good luck with that

 

I think it might be doable. You'll need to go turbo though, and used parts. Look at the artech Greddy kit in the classifieds. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but that seems like a super solid, affordable option.

 

Thanks, and to answer you're other question, I can wrench, mild fab skills but have friends who can do it nicer...

 

Turbo+injector in exhaust manifold. Done.

 

yes it can and will do it very well. and if its a rally cross car it needs!! anti lag!!

 

I'd run a FFS kit over a rotrex.

 

If your budget is that modest I would suggest a used manifold, inconel hardware, and an ebay journal bearing turbo of the equivalent size to the 2554. You could pick up the ebay turbo brand new for $200-250. Or you could take your chances with a used gt25 (same size, different name for it) from a Nissan SR20($50-125 depending on quality) and/or rebuild one. Rebuild kits are $40-50 on ebay.

Rebuilding the engine will cost you a minimum of $1800 with forged rods, pistons, Boundary Engineering oil pump, gaskets and machining. A MegaSquirt will set you back $400-800 depending on what and where you get it once you add an IAT and such. Wideband O2 will be $150ish. You will need injectors and they aren't free, either. It adds up quick.

 

Sounds good - but at what HP do I need forged Rods - I thought I would be OK with stock internals if I stayed under 200 - 250 hp ??

 

If you're running the car hard/racing, you'll want forged rods. Why rebuild the engine and NOT put in good stuff? You can get good forged rods for $300...

 

+1. Why take it apart and not put good rods in it. Stock rods seem to be safe to 200wtq, probably ok to 225ish, in mortal danger above that, for street cars. For your intended usage, go ahead and do the rods.