Hey, new to miatas all around, current have a 97 turbo gst and a TT 5.0.. Those turbo kits were both isntalled by a pro but I am going to take a whack at installing it (with help that can install) but piece by piece...
In preperation for the turbo all I really did was upgrade the throttle body to a 1.8+the injectors to a 1.8, I have a 255 fuel pump & adjustable fuel regulator.....thats the preperation..as far as the kit...
I have a 1.6 manifold and downpipe for a t25 turbo. I have my td05 turbo from my eclipse before I upgraded that one.. I have a fmic & piping kit I know I will need the oil lines, gaskets etc.. what I don't know is the turbo to air filter. I know I will need a filter and possible a maf adapter but will that cover where I have to plug in the hoses out of the maf? is the 1.6 already maf? or will i need that. I really know nothing about the miata yet. I need to get power under the hood... I was passed by a civic like I was standing still and that hurts.

 

oh yea, flowmaster exhaust and a super afc/electric boost/tt&volt meters+boost/airfuel/oilpsi/and digital rpm gauge. Z3fenders with a BIG hood scoop. . .not that this stuff matters too much but I can't see how to post a picture yet so ya'l get a visual..flowmaster makes it sound too obnoxious so I may change out that.

 

your volt meter is most likely why you're so low on power, take it off and you'll gain ~50hp.

you need to get rid of the 225 and get the 190lph, a wideband (for some reason I think your 'airfuel' gauge is narrow) oil lines (feed and drain) and something to control your timing. you'll go from the filter to the AFM, to the turbo, not MAF.

P.S. you're going to get flamed for not starting in the newb section, be ready.

 

yeah 1.6's have MAF 1.8's have AFM. Pick up an RX7 MAF

 

read my faq, that'll help get your started.

 

other way around.

 

 

well I'm still not sure, I was basing my order on the assumption that the M in MAF was mechanical, not mass. Thought I had read mechanical somewhere. Oh well i was wrong. Yeah look under brain's FAQ, lots of info there.

 

Well, I was passed by a Civic with a B18C5 and a CRX with a K20 (or K24) engine, mine seemed as if it had only one cylinder running. I even pulled to the side of the road to make sure my car was running "fine".

 

Briggs & Stratton swap Miata?

 

"you need to get rid of the 225 and get the 190lph"

Just curious what the reasoning for that would be?
I've been running the 255 since '04 and have had no ill effects.
reason I ask is that I've heard many people give the same advice, but never a good reason to make the switch.

O.P. ditch the super afc unless you're just using it for the guages. the amount of change it'll make to your map is so very minimal that it's just about worthless. it's not that the afc is not a good product, just not a good product for a miata. there just isn't much head room in the factory computer for adjusting the pulse widths.

exactly what kind of adjustable fuel pressure reg are you going to use? just adjustable isn't quite going to cut it. you need something that is boost referenced somewhere between 5 and 8 lbs of fuel per lb. of boost.

 

most have found, that unless you have a 99-00, it provides to much flow into the rail and overloads the FPR. Instead of maintain fuel around 35-48psi, you may see a static 50-60psi. This will cause you to run rich out of boost.

 

Technically, MAF = Mass Airflow Sensor (1.8), and VAF = Volume Airflow Sensor (1.6.)

This business with calling it an AFM is the root of much confusion. They're both Airflow Meters, it's just that one measures volume (which is temperature and pressure dependent), and the other measures mass (which is not.)


To answer the OP: the 1.6 Miata uses a mechanical VAF sensor, and it is not interchangeable with the MAF sensor that came on in '94.

That said, I wholeheartedly disagree with your entire approach to this. Unless you are completely phobic of computers and wiring, I'd strongly suggest that you sell off your AFPR, your fancy fuel pump, your SuperAFC and your 1.8 injectors, and instead install a proper engine management computer with correctly sized injectors, and leave the fuel system alone.

 

where the mother **** is hustler when u need him?

 

and a tuner toy fuel rail

 

Those are a nice touch, but not necessary.

 

That makes sense. I guess I never ran into any problems because I quickly ditched the factory regulator. I never saw the point of using two so it was replaced with an A/N fitting.