FTL.. I would love to see this magical timing map.

 

i ran the greddy @ 15psi with the 190hp fuel pump off the charts rich (<10:1)with 550cc(flowed 620cc) injectors at less than 80% duty cycle

 

What fuel pressure? Stock?

Again, datalogs don't lie....we added fuel, it didn't show on the A/F readings. We added again, still no change. That means there wasn't enough flow. That's the fuel pump. When we change it to a 255, we'll see if it goes away. If it is still having that issue, than I'll admit I was wrong. Until then I'm going with the guy with 14yrs experience, and he says the 190 is maxed out.

 

Cant blame you. The walbro 255 is cheaper than a good FPR, but I wonder if there is any relavence in that you're using an OEM FPR. Was fuel pressure checked in any way? Was the eom FPR replaced just in case? If your FPR isnt holding, then the 255 isnt going to help. I'm no expert with turbocharged Miatas by any stretch, I'm just trying to see the easiest and most logical solution first.

I'm looking forward to how this pans out either way.

 

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If your fuel pump was indeed maxed out your pressure would drop off.

I don't think there is any possible way you are maxing out a 190 unless it is failing.

That being said, these things are so cheap you may as well do what makes you happy.

 

Stock fuel pressure for myself... and I'm betting others.

If he says its maxed out... he's wrong. If he says its broken and not working right... that is possible.

You are simply NOT maxing it out.

If you are also just here to post numbers... and aren't really willing to show maps etc... why bother posting? We all contribute here to the general knowledge... its one of the ways that the builds have progressed out of the bandaid/12psi to not blow up phase of turbocharging miatas.

 

Hit the nail on the head. Crazy people come here and learn and ask questions and then turn around and refuse to share what they learned to others.

And agree about the F/P stuff too. It's broke It's maxed out.

 

yep stock pressure, i'm just thinking something is wrong, clogged fuel filter, weak voltage at the pump.....

 

Gotta love the super top secret timing map on the 225hp Miata.

 

You paid for the service of him writting your maps, it's your tune. It's not a disservice to him, hell you gave him credit here for it.
I dont see the need for keeping it a secret. We're just a bunch of enthusiasts with the same desire. Have you used any useful information from this site?

 

i'm taking my ball and going home!

 

I'm posting my dyno results cause I am trying to show that the AEM is a better standalone than the MS. The extra cost IS worth it. If someone wants to buy an AEM EMS, I'll be glad to send copies of the base tune so they can get it running the first try. I'll share the higher boost maps if needed, as well.

Wow...peer pressure approach. Good try.

It's 3/4 deg from knock.

I don't pay him. All work done on my car has been volunteered. So it is still HIS tune. He will not share it unless it is going with a new AEM EMS as a base map, since the AEM doesn't come with a base map for AFM removal.

Let me see, "useful info" from this site:

"Don't waste your money on an AEM, just get a MSPNP."
"Greddy kit sucks, just get a Begi instead."
"Haltech isn't any better than MS."
"Turbo Tony / RM downpipes are well made."

Only correct info I can think of that I got from this site was that the Greddy actuator can't hold boost over 8psi. It started having issues at 10psi for me.

Hell, want a good example of bad info, go read the compression ratio thread. How long has that been going on? I am sure there are still people who still think LC is better for making power on a low boost setup. Can't fix stupid, so I stopped trying.

Go read the thread with the dyno from me just running WG. How many pages before it was accepted that I can make that much power? Hell, I don't even think it was accepted, just was called plausible. Good example of how running crap like MS can make things seem impossible cause you have a GOOD standalone.

 

You're trying to prove the AEM is better than the MS with HP numbers that have been achieved on a stock ECU?

I don't think you're currently in a position to prove anything because you're not exactly pushing the limits of what's possible with any of the above.

 

Wow, you are way too cool for us.

 

I have no idea why you guys would want to run that map.

 

With nearly 2 years of use and 440 posts I'd think you would know the way things work here. I'd say you were a contributing member... but it appears not. It would rather seem you're biting the hand that's fed you. Now you're butt hurt when you know the attitude of this place will feed on you if you're **** isnt in order.

Good luck with your build. Oh yeah, sorry nobody believes you. It's a shame our collected reasoning cant match up to your 14yr tuner who isnt telling you the tune he has on your car.

 

Ha, you come here and wanna tell us MS sucks. That's like coming here and saying dri fting is the only real auto sport. Ok. Prove it. Show us WHY your AEM is making more power. Don't tell us "because I said so neh neh neh". You think you're right then prove it. Support your claim with reason. Not BS. And do so in a professional manner. If you can.

And yeah if you're 3/4 degree from knock I DAMN sure don't want your map. That's way too close to run on a street motor. Get a little oil in the combustion chambers and you'll be knocking. 1/2 octane lower fuel and you'll knock. etc. Why did you tuner setup spark so aggressively for a street car?

 

Because apparently he's trying to sell AEMs.

 

 

Thats what it sounds like to me.