So, how does it work?
:D

not in yet waiting for wastegate flanges

Update?! :o

Nicely done miatamike. That turbo is huge like my johnson. It reminds me of the s cover turbos minus the anti surge. It's even got the baby bell mouth. Really cool, man. I can't wait for the 25psi #s. I'm so hot for you right now. Is it wrong?:makeout:


You need to get out more!:giggle:

http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/4954/im000502z.jpg

DIY FTW!

http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/6928/im000508.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Getting a new motor built to hold up to 40psi then i will have new numbers. the engine is getting fire ringed so there will be no chance of lifting the head, plus a lot more.

shhhh but on 25psi it made 4XXwhp then the head shit the bed no clue why tho so now new motor build good for 40+psi. like i said above the engine is getting fire ringed, custom L19 head studs, custom pistons, Carrillo rods, port and polished head, shim under bucket tappers, 1mm oversize valves, and supertech valve springs. Thats all off the top of my head but i told my builder to not leave out anything. oh also i am going to do a pull with the stock intake cam and then drop it the jdm mazda intake cam witch is the same as doing the intake exhaust cam mod so we will have numbers to show how much of a difference it really makes.

Keep that L19 well oiled and don't expose it to moisture before you install them.

the who motor is being put together a machine shop that does nothing but high end motors.

What kind of head/block work is done and HG type - from you keeping your HG from blowing out at 40psi?? Or are ARP (L19?) studs just that good? Just wondering if you've done any type of O-ring on the block. Man, this is crazy - seriously making me think about running slightly higher CRs. 9.5:1 + 40psi = TOTAL ANNIHILATION

edit to add: Just read fire-ringed above... is that the same thing at machining an O-ring groove in the block deck?

Damn dude, there's going to be so much trick stuff in that motor it will be like a rolling magic show. You should be getting some sick HP numbers with it. Hope you got money left over for tires.:giggle:

Are you still on the stock drivetrain?

yes... the drivetrain... all this power through a stock trans/diff?...

Are you actually going to put any power on the ground or just spin every gear?

LOL, screw the gears! How fast are you planning on spinning the earth?:giggle:

Maybe it will be fast enough so we can travel back in time and rule the world with our turbocharged Miata army!

Cry havoc and loose the dogs of war...fags!

the head is going to be ported and polished, then there going to put a steel ring in the head then cut a groove into the block so the ring pushes the HG into the block for a perfect seal. Need the l19 studs to help make sure it stays down. my new comp is going to be 9:1.

thanks and no i have a 6 speed a 3.6 lds rear, the reas is not in yet tho.
answered above:crx:

in for new numbers :X OH MY

Ended up selling the the car to buy my new 13b turbo miata but ended up making 437whp and 348wtq before rings or head went bad. but sold it with a new built uninstalled engine to go along with it.

How much boost did you make those numbers at?

You made those numbers using that older FM2 manifold, correct?

20-23psi
we ran more boost and less timing trying to be safe but didnt last long as i think my HG went or rings or head.
yes and its a begi manifold modded for the tial back housing that was a .82A/R.

Oh, ok. The FM/Begi were the same back in those days. I have the same manifold but it came with a external wastegate mount on the bottom. Pretty much the same thing that you did but they called it the FM3. I was worried about being able to put down over 400whp with that manifold design, but it seems to do the job just fine:)

Those numbers you put down were serious. I'm sure you will enjoy the rotary just as much.