Yeah, G has a treadstone big momma ic and one of TSE's rads, I was doing pulls and it would just plummet afterwards. REally impressed me considering how hot these cars usually like to stay

 

I can usually do 2x the number of pulls in the same time period with my radiator vs. something like a Koyo. On NA cars with a TSE rad, I've had to turn the dyno fan off between pulls. Small radiators suck

 

Is the KOYO for the NA/NB a smaller unit than stock? For the NC, it's fully aluminum and 38mm thick, versus the plastic-endtanked ~26mm thick stocker. I've had excellent luck with mine so far, although I'm on an NC running 12psi at the moment. I've seen the crossflow units and have wondered if the stock water pump is up to the task...

 

Soooo...

After fixing the dumbass timing problem where it was pulling timing as the IATs went up, I did a flat interstate pull in 1 to 1 gear at ~19psi. RyanG was helpful enough to drop it into VD. My car had been weighed recently so we had a good idea of that value. The car was fully warm since I had been driving around for a few hours.



Equipped as follows- 93 octane, FM iron log manifold, GTX2867R, 3" downpipe with sharp dogleg, full 3" exhaust with HKS Hi-Power muffler, 2" hotside intercooler piping, ebay intercooler of unknown dimensions, 2.5" coldside piping, Skunk2 throttle body, DW700 injectors, MS1, 949 Supertech 8.4cr pistons, Brian Crower forged rods, Supertech light double springs, titanium retainers, '94 head ported by Miata2fast.

This dyno pull is about 3psi more and with more advanced timing than the 262hp 252tq pull I did on the dyno at Daytona.

Places to improve- 99-up head, tubular manifold, better downpipe, better intercooler, cams, water/meth injection.

Things I have but not installed- Devil's Own water injection kit, Artech is building a tubular manifold and downpipe as we speak.

 

Much better. and with the parts you're going to install should be well over 300