M2cupcar t3/t4 50trim 2.0L (302rwhp) - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 10-10-2008, 05:58 PM   #1
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Default M2cupcar t3/t4 50trim 2.0L (302rwhp)

Bone stock FE-dohc 2.0L with FE3n cams (not the worst nor the best) on pump gas. I made four runs total at 16psi (what I've been tuning/running on the street). 20+hp and 10+ftlbs gain from runs 1-3. Tried more timing to pick up the top end HP on a fourth run but the torque fell off. Injectors were at 82% on the third run. I suppose I could have played around with the tuning more but I think the engine just needs more air (cams, throttle body - to replace the 1.6 tb ). I'd rather make the same power with less boost, which I know it possible as some of the fwd FEs are doing the same power at 13-14psi with similar turbos.

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Old 10-10-2008, 06:03 PM   #2
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Sa-weet! I bet that's a hoot to drive. Videos! And can you post your timing map?
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Old 10-10-2008, 06:04 PM   #3
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I'd love to have a look at your map too Rob.
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Old 10-10-2008, 06:08 PM   #4
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That looks great.
I hope I can get mine to look like that.

How is that 100ftlbs jump from 3500 to 4500 Sweeet

I may have missed this, but what exhaust are you running? I would think that would spool up a bit quicker than that with a 2liter.
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Old 10-10-2008, 06:15 PM   #5
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I'm sure the 1.6 tb and plenium are choking the motor some. Don't expect to hit the same numbers as a fwd car though even with the same engine. FWD will always have less drivetrain loss vs RWD.

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Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
Bone stock FE-dohc 2.0L with FE3n cams (not the worst nor the best) on pump gas. I made four runs total at 16psi (what I've been tuning/running on the street). 20+hp and 10+ftlbs gain from runs 1-3. Tried more timing to pick up the top end HP on a fourth run but the torque fell off. Injectors were at 82% on the third run. I suppose I could have played around with the tuning more but I think the engine just needs more air (cams, throttle body - to replace the 1.6 tb ). I'd rather make the same power with less boost, which I know it possible as some of the fwd FEs are doing the same power at 13-14psi with similar turbos.
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Old 10-10-2008, 06:24 PM   #6
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I think the strongest run was max advance of 18*. I'll dig up my map and post a screen shot and the file.

I've got an OE Mercedes internal WG with a helper spring and 2.5" exit, then it steps right up to 3" all the way out. I'm running a 200 cell metal cat, 18" glass pack resonator and a "Raptor" turbo style muffler. Exhaust runs in around 360* and back out. Car is very quiet.

The fwd car made 314 @ 13psi with a log manifold, external gate and modern engine management.

Looking at the power curve, I think there's some things that can be done outside the engine (like a the 1.6 TB) to gain some top end. I'm also running half a 1.6 mani welded to the sportage mani, so there's probably some choke there. A mani was on the list before the pull.
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Old 10-10-2008, 06:36 PM   #7
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I think it looks good.
Looks like a lot of fun
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Old 10-10-2008, 06:52 PM   #8
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Good numbers Rob, glad to see you're FI again!
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Old 10-10-2008, 06:53 PM   #9
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This is very odd. what kind of dyno was that?

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Old 10-10-2008, 08:48 PM   #10
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Ive always loved your car. Awesome numbers, any current pics?
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Old 10-10-2008, 09:31 PM   #11
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Wanna trade?!
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Old 10-11-2008, 12:07 PM   #12
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Y8s- it's the dynojet at BalancedPerformance. I think it's the same one Doppleganger used (and the same tuner). Ahhh... our power curves are related, except your's keeps it's chin up on the high end. Where's my cake?

You can definitely feel the load go to the trunk on that torque rise.

It is fun... until the transmission lets go. I need to figure out the driveline before I spend time on improving the high rpm power.

You will drive it at the Inaugural MT East Coast dyno day.

Anybody know what the LINK correction factor is? I'd like to adjust my power curve for running such a crappy ecu.
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Old 10-11-2008, 12:50 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post

Anybody know what the LINK correction factor is? I'd like to adjust my power curve for running such a crappy ecu.
I don't know, you must have one of the rare Links, 'cause everyone knows they suck.

I haven't spent a lot of time tuning (or driving it, damn babies) my Miata since putting the new gear on it. Could you describe your method of tuning the link while on the dyno? How much power did you pick up while on the dyno, over your street tuning?

Jay
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Old 10-11-2008, 02:59 PM   #14
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And then there's the stock 1.6 ign correction factor.

For street tune, I've got a loop near me where I can check for radar on the way out and then turn around and come back, datalogging a run from 1500-7k in fourth gear. Over the last year and half I mostly adjusted the fuel based on the LC1 data. I aimed for 11.5-6 at 16psi. Only on the last two street logs did I bump timing and only by 1/2 degree.

Basically did the same thing on the dyno, but the timing was bump 2* per run and the fuel was adjusted per the tuner's recommendations for a VERY safe tune. So using DLL create a new log file from the NEW menu, click OK and it starts logging. Hit "Q" when done and then open up the log and look at the results tuning accordingly.

The problem with tuning on the street around here is it's hard to find a break in traffic and I fear getting near anybody with a higher speed differential. On the dyno, you don't even have to look where you going.

It took about an hour and half (lots of bench racing) and the gains were 20+hp and 10+ torque. I can't say on the gains for the street over previous because of the parts changes. But the first dyno session way back was what brought to light my high intake air temps.

I think what I did on the dyno could be done in a car, just more difficult and in my case more time consuming.
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Old 10-12-2008, 10:03 AM   #15
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Default ign table and map file

Most of the boosted zones outside of my curve are based on tuning for my curve. I haven't actually gone through and tuned by centering my boost target on each zone row. Tuner did say it's a disadvantage that the LINK's rpm breaks are user configurable. For example, I really have no use for zones 10-25 in row 600, but could definitely use that space further up in the rpm band. Tuning an entire 500rpm block with one figure is adequate, but far from ideal.
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Old 10-12-2008, 10:52 AM   #16
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I also have an above normal drop in torque (compared to other plots around here). I attribute it to my gutted MAF, smallish air filter and OEM cat (that one first). What is your intake/exhaust like?
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Old 10-12-2008, 11:52 AM   #17
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Exhaust is 3" all the way out from the 2.5" exit on the internal wg housing. Includes a 200 cell metal cat, 18" glass pack and a fairly restrictive 3" muffler:


I was going to make a run w/o it but just ran out of time... and it was quite hot. I think the manifold is probably the biggest issue.
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