If you are spinning in 6th, you have snow tires on.
I know of 5 500wtq v8 miatas that hook (2 on "street" tires), and 2 600+wtq turbo v8 miatas that hook, IN FIRST GEAR. There is something wrong with your alignment, suspension, and tires if you are spinning that hard, when FAR faster vehicles have ZERO issues. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1450283)
Stock 6-speed reinforced with thoughts and prayers.
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Temperature, summer tires, humidity all make a difference. I can spin 3rd on dry pavement depending on the temperature. Cars that hook, still get a bit loose sometimes, and it can be a little unnerving at speed. Enjoy that thing, sounds like fun to me.
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Originally Posted by DeerHunter
(Post 1450427)
Yes, except that the gearing isn't much better than the stock 6-speed. The nice thing about the Quaife gears is that they're tall enough to enable you to put ludicrous amounts of power to the ground. The KMiata swap will require changing out the final drive (probably with a Getrag diff) to something lower than even the oft-anticipated 3.3 r&p.
The Quaife gears are beefy and will put up with tons of abuse (I autocrossed for years with my first set, with numerous smoky burnouts aimed at impressing the hoi polloi). It was only once I started tracking that they failed. My theory is that the 5-speed case can't handle the heat, starts expanding and the gears no longer mesh properly. A chipped tooth will inevitably result. I'm considering the KMiata swap, but am reluctant to discard my really cool (and bulletproof) Guru billet differential. Besides, I retired my '93 from track duties and now have an MSM to fill that role. The e30 5-speeds are geared taller than the e46 5/6 speeds, might be a good option for you, especially if you're trying to retain that rear end. |
Contrats, those are some really impressive numbers. I felt like your original goal of 400hp with this build was super conservative, glad to see you absolutely smash that.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1450258)
I'm scared of this one :party:
Motor:
The lower lines are what I will drive it at, 415whp/386wtq and ~84% peak duty cycle. Peak of 265kpa, holding ~258kpa all the way through. ~23psi of boost. At that power level it wants to turn the tires in 4th gear at 90mph on dry pavement. That's it. My goal was 400whp, anything beyond that was gravy. With a usable, safe (lol) 415whp and an Internet Hero-Pull(TM) map at 450whp+, I couldn't be happier. There's nothing further planned for the powerplant in this car. Excuse me while I update my life insurance policy. https://i.imgur.com/dAh1SEjl.jpg? Im in the middle of building my motor now with pretty much the same setup as you. Do you think id be fine with a DW300 or is the 455 necessary. Also is there any reason you didnt do oversize valves or are they just kind of un necessary on the BP6D head |
Originally Posted by themonkeyman
(Post 1450495)
The e30 5-speeds are geared taller than the e46 5/6 speeds, might be a good option for you, especially if you're trying to retain that rear end.
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Originally Posted by thumpetto007
(Post 1450434)
If you are spinning in 6th, you have snow tires on.
I know of 5 500wtq v8 miatas that hook (2 on "street" tires), and 2 600+wtq turbo v8 miatas that hook, IN FIRST GEAR. There is something wrong with your alignment, suspension, and tires if you are spinning that hard, when FAR faster vehicles have ZERO issues. |
Originally Posted by thumpetto007
(Post 1450434)
If you are spinning in 6th, you have snow tires on.
I know of 5 500wtq v8 miatas that hook (2 on "street" tires), and 2 600+wtq turbo v8 miatas that hook, IN FIRST GEAR. There is something wrong with your alignment, suspension, and tires if you are spinning that hard, when FAR faster vehicles have ZERO issues. |
Yeah can't run maximum caster in the back if you wanna hook up.
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1450522)
TSE is working on their own T5 transmission swap project. I am sure when it is to Savington's liking he will swap it into this car if the 6 speed goes.
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I have full confidence savington has no idea what he's doing. he's just a dyno queen builder.
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I heard he flew Hyper out to tune his car
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1450554)
I heard he flew Hyper out to tune his car
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Originally Posted by matrussell122
(Post 1450520)
Im in the middle of building my motor now with pretty much the same setup as you. Do you think id be fine with a DW300 or is the 455 necessary. Also is there any reason you didnt do oversize valves or are they just kind of un necessary on the BP6D head
Valves and headwork would be very beneficial at this power level. It won't make a big difference on torque, but it would probably have pushed this setup north of 500whp. |
Sweet! You are now my most expensive friend:party:
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Very nice, congrats. Glad it all came together so well. Hope to see it in action next fall.
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Sav builds a swagger wagon. :party:
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So Savington, given the nature of what I think this build is - mainly a road car that can be tracked with devastating results - what would be your ideal:
1. road wheel tyre combo, and 2. semi-slick wheel/tyre combo for the track? |
This is strictly a road car. Full interior, all the trimmings, plus a few I've added (traction control and active suspension). In spite of the crazy dyno numbers, my well-developed road race car (Rover) is 5+ seconds per lap faster than Acamas is, owing entirely to lower weight, better aero development, and suspension that's optimized for road course performance. I did several track days in this car in 2016 and early 2017, but it's both slower and less fun than Rover is, so once Rover was up and running, I retired Acamas from track use.
To answer your question, the ideal road wheel/tire combo depends on your goals. I wanted maximum straight-line traction, reasonable longevity, and decent ride quality, so I have a 245/40 Hankook RS4 on a 15x9 6UL. If I wanted to trade ride quality for cornering grip, I would go up to a 15x10. If I wanted less longevity and more grip, I would go to a 245/40 Rival S. For a track wheel/tire combo, it's the same answer - it depends on your goals. On Rover, I use a 245/40 Maxxis RC-1 most of the time, because it's inexpensive, long-lasting, and forgiving. If I want to maximize speed, I swap up to a 245/40 Hoosier R7. Both are on 15x10 6ULs. |
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