Suggestion on EMU adjustments
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Once I get it about right, I'll take it to a dyno and see can I turn for a little more power. Another questions. On the menu where you can select hotwire V, greddy pressure sensor or absolute pressure etc, which is the best to use? does it really matter that much?
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
From the top...
Try setting up the lag times correctly, as shown below. OK, so my .65 and .8 are just guesses, but they're much closer guesses than what I'm seeing in there presently. BTW, what kind of injectors were you running previously that were 280cc/min?

Don't use Airflow anywhere. Use MAP. That's why you bought the thing.

Speaking of which, if you're using a proper Greddy 4-bar, you should probably switch to PSI (or kpa) rather than Volts. Makes like easier.

But even if you're not using a Greddy 4-bar, I can't find any MAP sensor that's not in vacuum at the rows where you're trying to do AFR autotune. (what the hell kind of MAP sensor do you have, anyway?) Only do autotune when you're in boost and when your O2 sensor clamp is active. Otherwise the EMU ends up fighting with the ECU.

And leave the airflow adjust map alone. Do your corrections in the I/J adjust map.
Try setting up the lag times correctly, as shown below. OK, so my .65 and .8 are just guesses, but they're much closer guesses than what I'm seeing in there presently. BTW, what kind of injectors were you running previously that were 280cc/min?

Don't use Airflow anywhere. Use MAP. That's why you bought the thing.

Speaking of which, if you're using a proper Greddy 4-bar, you should probably switch to PSI (or kpa) rather than Volts. Makes like easier.

But even if you're not using a Greddy 4-bar, I can't find any MAP sensor that's not in vacuum at the rows where you're trying to do AFR autotune. (what the hell kind of MAP sensor do you have, anyway?) Only do autotune when you're in boost and when your O2 sensor clamp is active. Otherwise the EMU ends up fighting with the ECU.

And leave the airflow adjust map alone. Do your corrections in the I/J adjust map.
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My map sensor is the $65 dollar one on ebay that I "thought" was the greddy sensor until I got it. the 280, should be 265cc, which is the stock MSM injectors, since they supposely flow around 280 I used that number. I'm having second thought on the sensor I bought, actually would not have bought it if I had realized it was not the greddy one. On the package it say 3 bar map sensor. You want to give me a good deal on the one you have?
I can't see the photos you posted on my work computer so I'll have to check them out when I get home tonight.
I can't see the photos you posted on my work computer so I'll have to check them out when I get home tonight.
Last edited by msydnor; Feb 4, 2008 at 08:06 PM.
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
With the engine not running at all, you should see 1.5vDC / 100 kpa (absolute) / 0 PSI (relative). (I'm assuming you don't live in Denver)
With the engine at regular warm idle, you should see appx 0.8vDC / 30 kps (absolute) / -10 PSI (relative).
Mind providing a link to the eBay auction and maybe a picture of the package and documentation on the sensor?
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Before you abandon all hope, let's try to figure out the characteristics of the sensor you have. A hand-operated vacuum pump would be best here, but we can use the engine if need be. Fire up Ye' Olde logger and tell me what you see.
With the engine not running at all, you should see 1.5vDC / 100 kpa (absolute) / 0 PSI (relative). (I'm assuming you don't live in Denver)
With the engine at regular warm idle, you should see appx 0.8vDC / 30 kps (absolute) / -10 PSI (relative).
Mind providing a link to the eBay auction and maybe a picture of the package and documentation on the sensor?
With the engine not running at all, you should see 1.5vDC / 100 kpa (absolute) / 0 PSI (relative). (I'm assuming you don't live in Denver)
With the engine at regular warm idle, you should see appx 0.8vDC / 30 kps (absolute) / -10 PSI (relative).
Mind providing a link to the eBay auction and maybe a picture of the package and documentation on the sensor?
I'll have to wait until tonight when I get home. I can't get to ebay from work.
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1. With the engine not running at all, you should see 1.5vDC / 100 kpa (absolute) / 0 PSI (relative). (I'm assuming you don't live in Denver)
-9.5 is what it registered the above. I did not see a value for volts. looked around few menus put didn't see anything to switch it to read volts.
With the engine at regular warm idle, you should see appx 0.8vDC / 30 kps (absolute) / -10 PSI (relative).
KPA at idle was -69
This doesn't sound like the info you were looking for. Tonight when I get homw I'll poke around some more. Also, I will be able to see the pictures you posted then. I think I may go ahead and order the greddy pressure sensor. The seller of this product does not know anything about it and no documentation comes with it. If I recall, the package said 3 bar map sensor 5v or something to that affect. At least if I get the greedy piece I'll know what I have and can eliminate any guess work.
-9.5 is what it registered the above. I did not see a value for volts. looked around few menus put didn't see anything to switch it to read volts.
With the engine at regular warm idle, you should see appx 0.8vDC / 30 kps (absolute) / -10 PSI (relative).
KPA at idle was -69
This doesn't sound like the info you were looking for. Tonight when I get homw I'll poke around some more. Also, I will be able to see the pictures you posted then. I think I may go ahead and order the greddy pressure sensor. The seller of this product does not know anything about it and no documentation comes with it. If I recall, the package said 3 bar map sensor 5v or something to that affect. At least if I get the greedy piece I'll know what I have and can eliminate any guess work.
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Another question regarding the map sensor. The MSM has a MAP sensor, I think it's a 3 bar but I'm not sure. Since the boomslang harness I used is for both the turbo and non tubo version, I used the assumption that the harness has no provisions for the factory map sensor. Boomslang recommended get the greddy pressure sensor also. That said, I "T'ed" the vacuum line that goes to the factory sensor to hook in the greddy sensor. Is it possible MAP sensor signal the ECU is recieveng from the stock sensor could be fighting with the MAP sensor signal the EMU is getting from the add in sensor?
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
1. With the engine not running at all, you should see 1.5vDC / 100 kpa (absolute) / 0 PSI (relative)
With the engine at regular warm idle, you should see appx 0.8vDC / 30 kpa (absolute) / -10 PSI (relative).
Also, I will be able to see the pictures you posted then.
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No. There is no provision for a MAP sensor of any kind in the main harness connector of the EMU, only the "option" port on the front.
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Other than KPA what? sounds like muy cheapo sensor may be working properly? I printed the info you have me with the exception of the pictures and had it with me, the logger had the pressure sensor values in KPA. Could'nt for the life of me figure out how to switch to voltage. I deleted the AF adjustment map as you suggested. Unfortunately during the week I work all day and go to school late so I don't have a lot of time to play.
I'll post the link for the sensor I bout when I get home. Can't get to ebay from the work computer either. These government computers are pretty strict.
I'll post the link for the sensor I bout when I get home. Can't get to ebay from the work computer either. These government computers are pretty strict.
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Below is the ebay link for the el-cheapo map sensor. It is a 3 bar 5v
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turbo...2em118Q2el1247
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turbo...2em118Q2el1247
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Hmmm. That's a v-manage they show it plugged into, and the connector is different from the one on the regular EMU MAP sensor.
You're gonna need a handheld vacuum/pressure pump with gauge and just plot the calibration of this thing. Or just bite the bullet and buy the real one.
You're gonna need a handheld vacuum/pressure pump with gauge and just plot the calibration of this thing. Or just bite the bullet and buy the real one.
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I'm leaning towards believing the pressure sensor I bought may be my problem. Reason... At around 5K RPM the car acts like it's hitting boost cut. Very similar to when you hit a certain boost level on the factory ECU (boost sensor). I used the greddy pressure sensor setting for the ebay boost sensor because it came with no information. So I'm thinking the reading are not accurate. I'll find out in a few days when I get my real greddy sensor.
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