sshamrockk

good, now you can plug those number into google.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Not really. The scaling makes it seem that way, but the curves themselves are exactly what I would expect from that setup.

For comparison, his curve is 180tq peak, falling to 130tq at 7k. Rover's BP05 EFR setup makes 205tq and falls to 155tq at 7k. He makes the same torque at 3000rpm and 7000rpm, Rover makes the same torque at 2800rpm and 7400rpm. That's exactly what I would expect given the differences (BP05 EFR vs B6 GT2560R).

If it were an airflow issue, the torque curve would be screwy, or it would make big torque and no power on top.

Sticking with my original guesses - either the motor is dead or the dyno is a mega-heartbreaker.

nitrodann

Good eyes, i never saw the scaling.

Dann

fpscolin

Seems like OEM SR20 T25 to me

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

based on the plate number, that's exactly what it is...


power level makes sense now. that turbo really stinks on a 1.6L. spools slower than larger turbos, then runs out of steam.

HeavyD

My suspicion all along..

Colipto

NISSAN SR20DET S13 GARRETT TURBO CHARGER / Damage Turbocharger 14411-50F00

Somehow i ignored what was said above and looked for myself, found it on ebay

fpscolin

So, do I add rods and an upgraded oil pump while I do my headgasket/timing belt, and send it with a better turbo?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

no, you drive the car and enjoy it.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Dynapacs can also read super low or super high or whatever. They're kind of annoying like that and can even change from generous to heartbreaker during a session as the hydraulic oil heats up. But looks like its a T25 problem. I'm with brain, drive the car and enjoy it, and if you feel like you need to do rods and ****, do it to a 1.8 on an engine stand and not the 1.6 in the car.

codrus

Agreed on skipping the rods.

If you wind up with some money burning a hole in your pocket and want to upgrade the car, look into a real, ball bearing GT2560.

--Ian

thumpetto007

iTrader: (15)

I was juuuuust looking at those... very tempting for 800 bucks.

But so is the efr 6258 for a few hundred more.

fpscolin

Alright, thanks for the advice.

3rdCarMX5

iTrader: (1)

Cheapest 6258 is roughly double @ $1550 on Full-Race. Is there a secret source for cheap efr?

thumpetto007

iTrader: (15)

Well dealer cost is 900, so you gotta know somebody.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

You are actually able to get one for 900? Cause I "know" quite a few people and still can't get a price that good.

If I was buying new, I'd never in a million years waste money on 80's technology. It's just silly.

thumpetto007

iTrader: (15)

Not that good, but close enough to consider getting the turbo.

You are right. I was looking at the garrets, and saying, how are these still so much money? I think the efr is a great turbo to grow into. When I finally get around to building the engine, I'll have enjoyed 220whp at wastegate pressure for a good while on the stock block, and I'll just run more and more boost as I get used to it. seems like people are making into the mid 400's with the turbo, I feel like that will be enough.

codrus

Why would you buy a new 2560? They show up used all the time. Just make sure it's got a Garrett tag on it and hasn't crashed into the housing.

The advantage to the 2560 over an EFR is that (I think) it'll bolt to all the hardware you already have. So no, it's not the baller setup, but it's a decent upgrade from a journal bearing T25 for a lot less money than an EFR.

--Ian

18psi

iTrader: (76)

You just made my point and answered own question

Savington

iTrader: (31)

I buy a lot of EFRs every year and I can assure you that nobody pays $900 for a new EFR.