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Old 05-23-2012, 11:23 PM   #21
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Also, you might see a cowl'd miata to take care of some clearance issues. I already plan to redo the front cross bar on the cross member. Plan is to build a tubular bar in front of the cross member and bracing it on each of the sides. I have pictures of someone else doing this somewhere that ill post. I also plan on using the factory kia intake until I get one of the magnus intakes welded onto a fe3 flange. I wish I knew how to weld aluminum, or rather, had the correct gas/ spool to even try.

This post makes me realize it might be time to start a build thread.
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Old 05-24-2012, 11:41 AM   #22
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Have you seen Rob's writeup?
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Old 05-24-2012, 06:12 PM   #23
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yes I have read his build tread several times. As well as every other fe3 swap thread on the internet, miata or not. At least it seems that way, you know? I wish all the pictures in his thread were working, thats my only gripe. Great thread with lots of info other wise.

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Old 05-24-2012, 07:02 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
rob are you using a miata CAS on your FE3?
Yes. I reindexed the Miata CAS wheel for the Mazda FE3 camshaft.

My photobucket acct was mysteriously obliterated. I still have all the photos just haven't gotten them all up on 'net.
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Old 05-24-2012, 09:33 PM   #25
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Deciding what I want to do with my oil pan setup and wondering what you guys think about modifying the front cross member as see in this pic http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...e/DSCF0119.jpg then possibly using a b2200 pan and pick up. I want to do some measuring but I think this maybe a bolt on oil pan option. Id like to get them both in my hand... anyone thought about using a factory pan (probe, b2000, ect?) and modifying the frame around it?

or is the way m2 did it the best option?
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:06 AM   #26
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I think a boxed sub is stronger than the stock. Also a lot more work and much heavier. You won't be able to use any F oil pans as stock- they're all far too deep. If you get the engine under the hood, a stock pan will need 3+ inches removed from the sump. My first build shimmed the subframe and IMO was not ideal- but done for simplicity and the fact that it was used successfully by multiple V8 swaps. DC's swap uses the stock sub and runs the pickup tube to the side of the mains and it all fits under the stock hood. That's the most simple solution. This time around I am sectioning the front sub for clearance and getting my engine almost 1.5" lower and further back.
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:42 AM   #27
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I love how turbo tim did his oil pickup too. If i get to do it again ill try something like that just so i dont have to deal with the super tight clearance of the pan and pickup tube.

Cypres. you may have seen my thread/s I'm using ms3X on my FE3 swap. If you're familiar with tuning / how sensors work / how to properly wire sensors you will have way less problems than i've had. I've been so frustrated and struggled to get this megasquirt set up right but if you consider the money invested and the capabilities of the ms3x compared to other options i think the choice is clear. 90% of the time if i would have just read the effing manual as Brain suggested i could have figured the stuff out on my own.
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Old 06-04-2012, 04:01 PM   #28
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90% of the time if i would have just read the effing manual as Brain suggested i could have figured the stuff out on my own.
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