Blysccr

I’ll have to get some ordered, thanks guys.

“While I’m in there”....

15x10 Dekagrams
245 40 r15 RS4
xidas

Question I haven’t found the answer to yet- 15x10 and 245’s on nb should mostly fit with fender roll. At what ride height? I’m thinking Xida race and 5” pinch weld height. That should be good (good = minimal rubbing at full lock. May have to remove plastic liners. Won’t be crushing fender with tire at every crack in the road). Will need to look more into alignment specs.

but most of what I’ve seen on “acceptable street ride height” is ground to fender measurements, not pinch weld. So that setup at 5” should be ok? I don’t have many speed bumps but don’t want to have to get out and measure **** to plan my route.

car will be 98% street. Have a buddy that’s a retired race car driver, looking to get back into racing, has a manufacturing company, building a spec e46, building an 07k for his 944 turbo, blah blah blah that’s wanting me to get out to some FATT’s so half prepping for that too.

also keeping an eye out for a kraken mani and dp and efr 62 or 67.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

I liked 5/5.25 F/R for the street with my Bilsteins but my XIDA race seemed comfortable slightly lower. Otherwise they didn't have enough droop capacity for me to believe they would work correctly. I'm at 4.75/5 or 4.5/4.75 now, I can't recall which, but I know it is lower than before.

curly

iTrader: (25)

For 5" pinch weld I think you might want to look at the Xida XLs, but I could be mistaken. I think there's a lot of information on Supermiata's site on pinch weld ride heights and what suspension is best for what ride height.

Blysccr

The races are below 5”, and xl are above 5”.

I’d like to be able to fit 15x10’s on 245 RS4 and am concerned about ride height for the street and fitment. Have an email into Supermiata.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Go with the XL's. I had trouble getting even to 5" pinch welds with my Race setup. I upgraded to the XL bodies because on the street even at 5" stuff was dicey over big speed bumps and such.

You have seen the entrance to my driveway. With the Race's as high as I could get them, getting in and out was a tedious process.

Blysccr

@shuiend problem solved!

Thanks! Hoping to get the motor Tuesday and get back on that project.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

That's what I was thinking. Same valving just longer. And they would still get lower than you want to go if you change your mind later.

Blysccr

Best of both worlds. Thanks guys.

since I may be getting into a little more racing than anticipated I’m also getting an oil cooler. Haven’t done much research yet but from what I’ve seen, don’t jeopardize the airflow to the intercooler and radiator. Best thing to do for oil temp would be to weld another bung into the oil pan sump?

wanted to go with an improved racing sandwich plate since they have a 212° Thermostat option but out of stock and 190$ so going with mocal at 180°. I had a Mishimoto one earlier but was not pleased with the fit and finish. -10.

🤘

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Shoot me an email about an oil cooler.

Blysccr

I really wanted vei dual gauges, but they’re having a sourcing issues and are a few months out. So I got some innovate dual gauges. Seem wayyy too complicated for what I want but oh well.

I am using the oil pressure sender adapter for my turbo oil feed. The sandwich plate I have coming doesn’t have a tap for that- which I’m fine with as I don’t want to slow down any flow there.

my question- does anyone know what ohm the innovate oil pressure sender operates? I obviously have 0 faith in the factory dumb gauge, but it will bother the **** out of me if it’s dead as I pull the oem sender. Was thinking I could tap into the innovate sender. Did some poking around. Looks like the innovate stuff takes an alternate reading every few microseconds. So just going to unplug the factory gauge. Have a SS adapter on the way. This is going to bug me, maybe I'll put the innovate gauge in the oem gauge panel. we'll see.

Also, is there a cleaner less issue prone way to do this? Or am I on the right track?


Still looking for cast top mount for efr and downpipe.
Thanks

Blysccr

****. Should I do upgraded valve springs? 100% NOT raising the rev limit over stock.



Did some digging, going to live with the dash oil pressure gauge unplugged. AHA! http://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com/Oil-...er-_p_612.html

ordered my suspension and sway bars

engine should be done tomorrow. I’d hate to have a badass car with no engine. But at this rate is there a rolling chassis of the month competition?

tbh the timing does work out as I should be able to get my Jeep sitting on its own weight tomorrow. Couple little things are taking forever to get here. Ie 1/8” npt bung for oil pan. Not going to weld that in the car.

Blysccr

**** these are big

Blysccr

Full mk turbo kit Kraken top mount and down pipe. looking for best deals on an efr. Efr on the way

Blysccr

The available time : desire to work : back to work tables have changed plus the motor still isn’t done that’s a whole other sub forum

Blysccr

Question- Do you install the head to the block and torque without the cams or with?

borka

iTrader: (1)

I put my fully dressed head and and bolted it in, so I dont think it metters

Blysccr

thank you

Blysccr

Alright guys. Going to be starting my assembly tomorrow. I have oem torque specs handy.

many tips?

do I put a load of assembly lube in the oil pump?

do I torque anything extra?

Thanks!

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Load of assembly lube in the pump.

Put lock tight on the oil squirters.

Blysccr

thanks Shuie!

*I assume that it is best to replace the EFR boost control solenoid with the MAC valve?
*Does the wastegate actuator on the EFR need to be adjusted/preloaded/etc? I'm waiting on my manifold/downpipe from someone who "stocks everything you need". So hopefully won't wait that long, but idk if it needs clocked or anything yet.
*Waiting for trackspeed turbo mount kit
*gaskets/seals for things like intake manifold, vvt actuator, etc. How important is that to get new? I'll get crush washers but I do have a full engine gasket kit. Have old style headgasket.
*have npt to bsp adapter for oil pressure gauge. Will forego oem cluster gauge for innovate gauge. bandaid solution for now.

Anything I'm missing? Anything else of "while you're in there?"

What are the chances the downpipe will mate with the exhaust and IC piping? With all the other crap I've added in, I probably won't get too crazy with changing the IC right now. fuhhhh

>planning to use napa conventional oil with lucas break in additive. Wire wastegate open, bring car up to idle, and run through the gears and let it idle down to create that vacuum. Per engine builder. (also have to bed brakes and break in clutch). Will do that for 30-75 miles.
>75 miles change oil with conventional, let the wastegate do it's thing but take it easy
>500 miles change again with dino oil and run it decent
>1k miles rotella t6 and let her eat



Notes for my sanity
-finish fuel pump rewire- under dash relay isn't green. just saying.
-extend fuel pump return line in tank
-find screw for pump cover
-put all that **** i took apart back for interior
-get frankenstein bolts for hard top
-secure sway bar end links both ends. Check orientation.
-half *** align with elbj and outer TRE's
-assemble engine
-install temp and pressure sensor pig tails
-verify coolant reroute is tight. Weld on adapter at radiator?
-build new turbo return and feed lines
--heat wrap for that^
-put all the **** back on the engine. torque values handy. get liquid threadsealer
-check pinchweld height
-mount catch can and external FPR --> eliminating strut tower brace to clear up space, hear it's not needed
-e85 sensor (downstream of fuel rail)
-get a race alignment
-make sure vacuum lines are good
-plumb fuel system
-catch can
-head shielding
-under tray?
-clutch line
-heat tape between dp and tranny
-lots of other stuff i'll miss