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Assembly started. My oem gasket kit has the wrong oil pan gaskets. Has two for the rear, not one for the oil pump. It’s about 1.5” too long. Also scrounging around for some fittings for the efr.
[QUOTE=Blysccr;1567153]Radium fuel rail
external fpr
10 micron in-line -an filter
-an fuel line/fittings
good screw on hard line adapters
return style fuel system Dw200 DW 300 and ID1050x
radium catch can single setup
ebc
gm flex fuel sensor added to the list.
What’s a good price for 3 mile old FF640’s and a DW200?
Question time- BW recommends -6an oil feed for lines over 18”. Mins is roughly 30-35”.
so I got an adapter but the male end into the turbo is concave. Also the shoulder for the crush washer and O ring is smaller but still covers the washer and O ring. Is that ok?
Measurements are close enough for the sealing on the shoulder...so I'm going to dope it up and send it. Flat (old) vs concave (new) Shoulder comparison
Best way of getting a hold of @18psi ? I messaged him on IG and he said he'd get me on the schedule a couple weeks ago. I may be able to get the motor in the car this weekend and asked to get a base map to check for leaks, bed brakes and break in clutch, so nothing crazy. Don't want to bug him, but you guys know how it is to get the ol project car fired up...
Depends upon your goals. I would buy the Boundary Engineering VVT oil pump and use the stock damper if I was going to keep it under 350whp or keep the stock rev limit of 7200. If you are planning on raising the rev limit or the power level above those I would consider both the oil pump and a damper upgrade. But others will have opinions as well.
Lighter flywheels increase the need for a better damper and billet oil pump gears, in my opinion. It's all about smoothing the pulses of each firing and the rapid speeding and slowing of the crank each firing. A good damper is good for the engine.
Thanks six. Stock valve springs so keeping it at 7200. Oem flywheel. have that boundary sauce. And 350 is what I think should be good for the 6 speed and 245 RS4’s.
My only counterpoint to that build would be consider that when you get it on a dyno for final tuning, which I recommend for that HP level, and find yourself wishing you would have gone ahead and put the dual springs + BE + ATI and not worry if/when it purrs on up to 400 and like a safe 8k. Suggest you fully plan out the cooling for that level as well.
im 100% fine with a safe tune at whatever power level it makes at this point. Need space in the garage.
BE is on the build list.
I have a CSF radiator from Supermiata and a reroute. Good cast water pump. Have hood vents too. Won’t likely be tracking this year If I can get it running a good fun street tune.
getting the remainder of the summer of enjoyment would certainly reignite the desire for this to be fun and probably cross flow, springs and ati over the winter.
Originally Posted by Turbomack
My only counterpoint to that build would be consider that when you get it on a dyno for final tuning, which I recommend for that HP level, and find yourself wishing you would have gone ahead and put the dual springs + BE + ATI and not worry if/when it purrs on up to 400 and like a safe 8k. Suggest you fully plan out the cooling for that level as well.
why are there 100 bolts holding in the half -a$$ cover of the fuel tank? F word
setting up water and oil lines now.
the oil pan temp sensor I welded it hits the motor mount on the plug side. There is like 3/16” before it hits, so the wire for the sensor is at a 90. It has a spring cover and I taped it. Hope that’s fine.
will be welding in the -6 return line bung in the front of the mixer in the coolant system. I removed the throttle body heater and oil warmer so there was an open nipple.
going to be a rats nest with lines. Will be routing as best I can. Need to get bung welded and should be able to finish that.
fuel system from tank to the feed and vapor line in the engine bay is done. Not putting carpet in in case of any leaks. Also got some body trim removal tools coming.
Since removing the emissions stuff, I’m going to have a ton of vacuum ports open on the manifold. Just cap and zip tie?
I’m doing my pan today as well for the smaller gm temp sensor. I would drill hole in the mount for the loom to pass through. The early mount doe not attach to the pan. I made a post in the definitive vvt thread with pictures of both designs.
It was tight to get wrench, but worked fine. No leaks. 1999 with A/C and P/S. [Oh, I thought you were asking for input, but I see you already have it welded in. Will leave this anyway.]
Yes, caps for un-used vacuum ports. I'm low boost, so have not used many ties. Use OEM caps, because the after market ones I've seen are made of crappy rubber and they don't last.
06-06-2020, 10:39 PM
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