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I have another manifold I can use, may go that route. Or considering getting some steel and a steel -an bung and grafting it into the line coming out of the mixer.
FUHHH
@DNMakinson I'm reading your build and see you added a line to extend the return of the fuel system. I'm doing an external regulated system, any issues with the fuel returning out of the port made by removing the regulator, or should it be lowered like you did?
It was tight to get wrench, but worked fine. No leaks. 1999 with A/C and P/S. [Oh, I thought you were asking for input, but I see you already have it welded in. Will leave this anyway.]
Yes, caps for un-used vacuum ports. I'm low boost, so have not used many ties. Use OEM caps, because the after market ones I've seen are made of crappy rubber and they don't last.
The virtue in running the tube down is to not create air bubbles in the fuel. If the return "pees" into the fuel, it will entrap air. By returning at the bottom of the tank, this is prevented.
If you do it how I did, with the -AN adaptor, search. The one listed for Miata on Amazon is not the correct part. Wrong bolt spacing. Somewhere I published the correct P/N.
I’d say coolant return is ok. Routing is tight by the mixer but I’ll wrap with heat reflective stuff and put some extra rubber hose at the contact points.
The oil drain is too low. Should have put it between the ac condenser and the motor mount. Got an -10an to push lock adapter. Hoping that fixes me up.
Cut the red webbing out. The an fitting clears, but the yellow portion is the face of the ac compressor. So I got an adapter hoping that clears.
An to push-lok adapter. Should clear now. Is brass ok?
have to finish engine bay fuel setup- fpr, radium rail, e85 sensor.
getting a bumper bar to clean up the front and make mounting things easier.
had to clearance the motor mount again for the ktuned 3 way adapter. That’s the way to retain oem “oil pressure” gauge, turbo feed, and aftermarket oil pressure gauge. With another port to spare.
have the sandwich plate and my -10 an oil cooler fittings ready to go. It’s going to be close by the passenger tire with 245’s.
will adapt kraken dp to mkturbo exhaust.
Should I add a bung closer to the turbo? Kraken is like 30” from the turbo vband.
probably do an undertray too. Any suggestions?
going to be tough with all the changes to run the car and break the engine in. New turbo and manifold, new clutch, new brakes, new tune, new hoses, new underwear.
1 hour flat. How do you guys combat the tilt to the passenger side right before getting the driver motor mount bolt in the hole? And damn that reroute hangs out far in the back. Glad I got three replacement plugs from Ballenger for the coolant temp sensor.
FYI kraken top mount efr fits in the same place as the mk turbo ic piping and a 3” or so cut on the down pipe mates up to the mk exhaust.
Expensive little b*tch Little bit of stainless welding. First time. No purge. Should hold. Fuel system. Pump to filter to hardline. Hardline to flex fuel sensor into fuel rail out fuel rail with damper to regulator then to return. Oem damper removed and cut up to make the previous picture so that fuel is returned at the bottom. Red hot tungsten through my glove into my cuticle. Not fun.
Slowly chipping away at things. Have a 45° Elbow for reroute May use as well. I understand the benefit of Full hard piping Vacuum lines not hooked up, catch can half removed. Decent shot of fuel setup. Anything glaringly jacked up?
Set fuel pressure at idle to 43 psi? EDIT 55 . With a return system, the base pressure is set with the engine off, but the pump running
Well can’t set fuel pressure for some reason. When I have the tps and the thing under the tps plugged in, the thing under the tps has a high pitches hum to it. Not sure what that is.
qmax coolant reroute, vehicle coolant temp sensor reads about 30° lower than aftermarket gauge. Aftermarket gauge is within 5° of a flir camera reading.
Aftermarket water temp gauge vs oem (on tuner studio) was off by 20-30 degrees. I checked the supermiata reroute with a flir camera, and the camera and aftermarket coolant temp gauge reading was within 2 to 5 degrees. Played around with the settings and now the car and tunerstudio show the same value. On RX7 it was off 10 degrees
Used default BMW E30 settings, spot on. Now my car runs hotter than I had hoped.
Also, trying to read various megasquirt posts for the 01-05 miata with flex fuel and launch control. I cut the white/green wire into the oem connector that goes into megasquirt and put that into the options connector. E85 sensor into pin N is "clutch" but actually Digital switched in. Clutch wire into options pin M Digital switched In 2.
Checked in to see how you were doing - nice to see it on the road! Sorry I wasn't available to assist - been dealing with buying and selling a house and everything else that goes along with it. Hoping to get back in an NC Miata next year.
Checked in to see how you were doing - nice to see it on the road! Sorry I wasn't available to assist - been dealing with buying and selling a house and everything else that goes along with it. Hoping to get back in an NC Miata next year.
Well I'd use on the road lightly. Have some small things to take care of then it should be *good*. No worries man I dig it. If i ever get a weekend and the weather is decent i'll hit you up! good luck with the house and NC
Did your tuner provide a reason for this? My MAC 4 port has played nicely with MS and my EFR
It's worked for him before. The issue is the confusing *** directions from DIY Autotune (moreso on the e85/launch). Plus i've been on spring tension so no need, roughly 250 whp on medium spring. I've got one in the garage if need be.
07-05-2020, 01:58 PM
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