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Old 09-19-2012, 03:49 PM   #21
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MX5Race, can you please post your VVT engine MAP for N/A.

Thanks,
-Raj
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:35 PM   #22
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I've done what you're describing.
I have a butchered 1.6 harness with 94 harness transplanted over it. I don't remember why I originally did it, but it's been like this for almost 2 years now. Works great. Kind of ugly. Still way better than other cars I've seen.

Anyways, it's a pain in the ***. It's definitely doable, but there are issues:
- 1.6 harness is not sequential. if you want to run sequential, you need to add wires
- VVT has extra sensors which means - add more wires. A good amount of wires
- Soldering in that area is a major, major pain the ***. I hate soldering under the hood. And there are at least 20 wires to solder in order to join the harnesses.

You mention that you want to create "the best possible combo"... well, that would be MS3 with MS3x and a custom wiring harness. Possibly with fuse box relocated to the interior.

I also recommend skipping cops and going straight to LS coils. Same initial price, better coil.
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:47 PM   #23
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splicing harnesses sounds like zero fun.

just run the extra wires you may need or steal from other sources, such as the unused AFM wires or charcol solenoid and such.
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:48 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redrider706 View Post
MX5Race, can you please post your VVT engine MAP for N/A.

Thanks,
-Raj
Don't have access to my tuning laptop to upload it, but I have it posted on www.MSruns.com • Index page
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:58 PM   #25
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Splicing a 2001 engine harness into an early chassis is the worst possible way to tackle this project. Use your OEM engine harness and add the wires you need for VVT, cam/crank, and sequential injection.
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:43 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet View Post
- Soldering in that area is a major, major pain the ***. I hate soldering under the hood. And there are at least 20 wires to solder in order to join the harnesses.
One of the reasons that I'm not a fan of soldering on a car at all. The connection is brittle and it will break eventually in a vibrating car. If I need to connect things I'd rather run a new wire all the way to an oem connector and re-pin it. If thats not possible I'll try to use the same style as the OEM connector as a splice, failing that, weather pack.
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:56 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
One of the reasons that I'm not a fan of soldering on a car at all. The connection is brittle and it will break eventually in a vibrating car. If I need to connect things I'd rather run a new wire all the way to an oem connector and re-pin it. If thats not possible I'll try to use the same style as the OEM connector as a splice, failing that, weather pack.
Not as brittle as my turbine wheel or brake rotor, apparently!
Seriously, I drove about ~22000 miles with this harness in 2 different cars without failure. Use a good soldering iron, good solder, good heatshrink, cheap heat gun
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:00 PM   #28
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Saying it will fail eventually, puts the eventually on the same level of all molded plastic parts will fail eventually. It might be a really long time but it will happen, eventually. Though speaking of solder, the spark fun iron is amazing, and their special blend solder has to be the best flowing non-lead solder I've ever used.
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:43 PM   #29
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why would you use non-lead solder? gonna slap an RoHS sticker on your car? lol...

WES51 or bust!
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:45 PM   #30
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f that.

40-Watt Pencil Iron - RadioShack.com



it's funny cause it's true.
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:46 PM   #31
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Looks similar to the spark fun one, except the spark fun one has a metal case, a better holder, a better iron, and only costs 40 bucks. And I use non-lead solder because its impossible to find leaded solder, and to be honest this stuff flows better than most leaded solder.

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Old 09-20-2012, 02:57 PM   #32
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I'm taking the 2001 fuel injector harness I bought and adding two wires for sequential on my 1991. It seems pretty simple and gives me a pig-tail to solder in, not bad. I still need a 99 TPS piggy if anyone has one.
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Old 09-20-2012, 03:43 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Looks similar to the spark fun one, except the spark fun one has a metal case, a better holder, a better iron, and only costs 40 bucks. And I use non-lead solder because its impossible to find leaded solder, and to be honest this stuff flows better than most leaded solder.
that's a pretty baller station actually.
and lead solder - McMaster-Carr

bought like a 2lb spool ages ago and been using ever since.
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:49 PM   #34
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Vehicle electronics are ROHS-exempt.
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:00 PM   #35
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That is what I used to use. It kicked ***.
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:03 PM   #36
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:20 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Don't be hatin. I repaired circuit boards for a living, so work wanted me to have a good station. I really do miss it, the weller I have now just does not do it. then again the tips for the Pace sometimes cost more then my current weller.
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:50 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MX5RACER View Post
Please do not cut and splice the entire harness. The easiest way is to use the existing harness from the car and adapt it where needed. I transferred all the sensors, like coolant etc. over from my old block. You should splice the the Cam and Crank sensors into the CAS wiring. You will also have to splice in the throttle position sensor unless you did that previously. You can de-pin the idle valve connector so there is no cutting and splicing there.

To change over to the Toyota COP's, you will need to open the spark plug holes on the valve cover. To get them tied into the harness on the car you can gut your ignitor unit and wire into it. You can also just de-pin the ignitor unit harness and use an 8 wire plug from the '01 harness, like the fuel system connector, and wire the other side of the connector to the COP's.

How are you going to control the VVT? I am using the VVTuner from DIYAutotune. This will need sensor inputs from the Cam and Crank sensors. I wired all of them from the DIYPNP and used the pass-thru in the VVTuner to bring them back to the DIYPNP.

Please feel free to contact me.

Also, if you need a good start-up map for N/A, let me know and I will send you mine.
The plan is to use VVTuner to control the VVT. Are you running toyota COPs? Got any pictures? I know the holes on the valve cover would need to be modified, but do the mounting points for the factory coils need to modified as well? Did you convert to sequential injection or wire for batch? Lol sorry so many questions. Thanks in advance
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:57 AM   #39
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Well gosh guys....I didn't think splicing the harness from the 02 was such a bad idea..... but it appears all the veterans have chimed in. Sucks...cuz I just spent an hour and a half labeling my cut 02 harness wires....Oh well I guess.
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Old 09-21-2012, 04:10 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
That is what I used to use. It kicked ***.
Which one is that? I have an ST115 and an ST50 with three different handpieces (TD100, SX90 and TP100) and I would love to have all three active at the same time with more deskspace available.
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