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Old 11-12-2012, 05:49 PM   #81
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You don't say..

So between fm, clutchmasters, competition, and act which has the better rep and can hold 300.
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Buy the FM2 clutch and call it a day.
That was my response just 4 posts above where I quoted you. My response has not changed and will not change. Put in an FM clutch unless you are planning on using a 949 twin disk.
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Old 11-12-2012, 05:51 PM   #82
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I don't know if this will work, but here is a search for 'clutch' in the suspension and drivetrain section. It has all the answers you need.

https://www.miataturbo.net/search.php?searchid=2565660
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:15 PM   #83
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Well I went with FM level 2.

Also when I picked up some extra things from the shop today, I noticed the vin plate on my oil pan doesn't match the vin of my actual car. I looked and the VIN of the car for the pan and it was done in March. My VIN rolled off the line mid-April. Is it common for these numbers to be mismatched? I bought the car stock with 35,000 miles, dunno if maybe someone had an issue before I bought the car but there was no damage to the underside to suggest that a pan would have been broken and swapped.
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:25 PM   #84
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Also, what's the correct procedure to fully eliminate A/C. Is there a new belt involved? What should be removed all-together? Compressor and lines? Condenser?

I hear the real proper way to go manual steering is to replace with a manual rack. I also hear it can be done by looping some line? Anyone care to explain one vs the other?
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:53 PM   #85
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Old 11-16-2012, 08:05 PM   #86
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Replacement pans have no VIN. Your motor was swapped before you bought the car.
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:00 PM   #87
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Replacement pans have no VIN. Your motor was swapped before you bought the car.
Makes me wonder what happened to engine 1, and how many miles are really on engine 2 if thats the case.
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:18 PM   #88
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Makes me wonder what happened to engine 1, and how many miles are really on engine 2 if thats the case.
Damn that's bad luck. It goes to show that you never know when buying used... But I can't see it being too high mileage
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Old 11-17-2012, 01:05 PM   #89
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I did basically the same engine build and put on a BEGI cast set up with GTX2867 turbo and external waste gate. The car dyno'ed at 290 WHP @ 15 PSI boost. The GTX2867 is so efficent it is amazing.
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Old 11-17-2012, 01:16 PM   #90
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Pretty set on everything aside from rods, pistons, and clutch.

Pistons (wiseco or supertech) (8.6:1 compression either way)
Rods (Eagle, K1, Manley)
Clutch (Comp, ACT, etc.)

Is Boundary Engineering oil pump really necessary?

Give me some input on which rod and piston combo you'd choose of the ones I've listed and why. All are priced similarly.
I would go with a ATI Dampner and not the Boundry Engineering pump. The reason for pump failure most often is related to crank movement. The ATI dampner helps to corrects this issue and is not a "Band-aid". I prefer to fix the base cause then treat the Symptom. If I was targeting 400+ I think i would do both as extra protection.
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Old 11-17-2012, 01:20 PM   #91
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I forgot to mention that below 275HP. I would by a high quality pump and not be concerned. The boundry Engineering pump is a very good product, but costly and does not address the base cause.
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Old 11-17-2012, 02:55 PM   #92
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The ATI damper is more expensive than the Boundary oil pump, and there's no guarantee that the ATI damper will solve the issue. There is, however, a relative amount of certainty that a BE pump will not fail due to standard crank flex at 300+whp. Those of us that race all have Boundary pumps, so take that as you will.
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Old 11-17-2012, 08:30 PM   #93
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BE Pump should be the second item on your "to buy" list.
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Old 11-21-2012, 02:07 PM   #94
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BE Pump should be the second item on your "to buy" list.
Which B pump, there are three of them?
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Old 11-21-2012, 02:33 PM   #95
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Which B pump, there are three of them?
Depends which motor you have and the use of it?

If it is a street car without a VVT head you are fine with a street pump. If you have a VVT head or it is a track car I would suggest the race pump.
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:47 PM   #96
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Since I have an MSM do I still need to tap the oilpan for a return? Isn't there one already in place for the stock turbo that I can use?

I mean use for the EFR, not the stocker, obviously I know that would work. Driver's side of MSM pan

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1.8L build, aiming for ~275whp-5434365587_505a02eb85.jpg  

Last edited by Mazdaspeeder; 11-29-2012 at 11:08 PM.
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:36 PM   #97
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This may seem silly but do I keep my oil squirters? I read somewhere that with the FM Wisecos you have to remove them? I got the non-FM 8.6:1 version.
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:33 PM   #98
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For the SuperMiata damper, do I order without a trigger wheel? Car is a 2004 Mazdaspeed going to run Raverant MS2 enhanced.
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:14 PM   #99
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Just wanted to thank everyone who participated and helped me through this. Engine is complete and I'm getting it friday morning.









I also came across a bit of extra money so I pulled the trigger on a SuperMiata 4T wheel damper. Figure it can only help solidify this new motor.

Also got some other things to prep for more power, again, thanks to a lot of the info given to me here





Finally, through all of this, I found a vin plate on my oilpan. It didn't match the VIN of the car, so I ran a report. Wonder what happened to the original engine too

Attached Thumbnails
1.8L build, aiming for ~275whp-252391_450040025059650_342422484_n.jpg   1.8L build, aiming for ~275whp-27888_450449458352040_1325257572_n.jpg   1.8L build, aiming for ~275whp-261430_450485645015088_1153216270_n.jpg   1.8L build, aiming for ~275whp-526866_450485798348406_863791669_n.jpg   1.8L build, aiming for ~275whp-64672_580784419537_659155202_n.jpg  

1.8L build, aiming for ~275whp-imag1437.jpg   1.8L build, aiming for ~275whp-junker.png  
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:42 PM   #100
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whatever the case, you got a real low mileage motor put in.
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