280whp+ Borg Warner turbo set up
08-28-2018, 04:36 PM
#41
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: UK
Posts: 191
Total Cats: 27
You don't seem to have an uprated clutch on your list. At 280whp you are very likely to need it. You also don't list uprated suspension, uprated brakes, wider rims, sticky tyres etc either...
I'd suggest calling one of the vendors on here like Savington@Trackspeed or Emilio@Supermiata (other vendors are available) and asking them for a shopping list of what's needed to make a 280whp car start and stop safely, and what's necessary for a reliable setup - then listen carefully to what they say...
I'd suggest calling one of the vendors on here like Savington@Trackspeed or Emilio@Supermiata (other vendors are available) and asking them for a shopping list of what's needed to make a 280whp car start and stop safely, and what's necessary for a reliable setup - then listen carefully to what they say...
Reply
0
0
08-28-2018, 06:09 PM
#44
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 54
Total Cats: -7
You don't seem to have an uprated clutch on your list. At 280whp you are very likely to need it. You also don't list uprated suspension, uprated brakes, wider rims, sticky tyres etc either...
I'd suggest calling one of the vendors on here like Savington@Trackspeed or Emilio@Supermiata (other vendors are available) and asking them for a shopping list of what's needed to make a 280whp car start and stop safely, and what's necessary for a reliable setup - then listen carefully to what they say...
I'd suggest calling one of the vendors on here like Savington@Trackspeed or Emilio@Supermiata (other vendors are available) and asking them for a shopping list of what's needed to make a 280whp car start and stop safely, and what's necessary for a reliable setup - then listen carefully to what they say...
Powertrix UL w/Swift Spring Coilovers
will be installing a 4 piston bbk to the front and running slotted rotors to the rear seeing as few people hardly change the rears and as for a new clutch I was either think ACT or FM...any suggestions?
Reply
0
0
08-28-2018, 06:10 PM
#45
15x8 6ULs with 225/45 on Toyo Proxes
Powertrix UL w/Swift Spring Coilovers
will be installing a 4 piston bbk to the front and running slotted rotors to the rear seeing as few people hardly change the rears and as for a new clutch I was either think ACT or FM...any suggestions?
2) Gross.
3) Don't use slotted rotors
4) FM, ACT, Supermiata clutch
Reply
-1
-1
08-28-2018, 06:20 PM
#46
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 1,552
Total Cats: 196
15x8 6ULs with 225/45 on Toyo Proxes
Powertrix UL w/Swift Spring Coilovers
will be installing a 4 piston bbk to the front and running slotted rotors to the rear seeing as few people hardly change the rears and as for a new clutch I was either think ACT or FM...any suggestions?
ignore above, i i thought the offset of 6ul 15x8 was more agressive, as compared to 15x9.
225 will fit on a 15x8. but 15x9 is more optimal for performance.
If money is no object, seeing as your list of stuff is already $10K+, then get Xida coilovers, they are THE best miata suspension.
I recommend FM level 2 clutch. i had it and its a very good clutch and will hold onto the upper 300's hp. with a decently light pedal and good slipping feel.
no bbk is needed really, unless you are planning on going to the track. stock calipers/rotors are more than adequate for the street. just put good brake pads. such as stoptech or hawks. street/sport pads.
Reply
0
0
08-28-2018, 06:21 PM
#47
15x8 with 225's is a no no. you need 15x9 6ul for 225 tires. the offset of 15x8 and 225 tires will rub fenders badly. with 15x9 no rubbing on NB miatas and slight roll needed on NA miatas.
If money is no object, seeing as your list of stuff is already $10K+, then get Xida coilovers, they are THE best miata suspension.
I recommend FM level 2 clutch. i had it and its a very good clutch and will hold onto the upper 300's hp. with a decently light pedal and good slipping feel.
no bbk is needed really, unless you are planning on going to the track. stock calipers/rotors are more than adequate for the street. just put good brake pads. such as stoptech or hawks. street/sport pads.
If money is no object, seeing as your list of stuff is already $10K+, then get Xida coilovers, they are THE best miata suspension.
I recommend FM level 2 clutch. i had it and its a very good clutch and will hold onto the upper 300's hp. with a decently light pedal and good slipping feel.
no bbk is needed really, unless you are planning on going to the track. stock calipers/rotors are more than adequate for the street. just put good brake pads. such as stoptech or hawks. street/sport pads.
Reply
0
0
08-28-2018, 06:24 PM
#48
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 54
Total Cats: -7
2. I have had my eyes on these, not to many people running them and most have good feed back. But why gross???
3. Would have unnecessary brake pad wear or?
4. I have considered the SuperMiata clutch and what’s one you personally like?
Reply
0
0
08-28-2018, 06:26 PM
#49
1.15x9 cause of less of a chance for stretch or?
2. I have had my eyes on these, not to many people running them and most have good feed back. But why gross???
3. Would have unnecessary brake pad wear or?
4. I have considered the SuperMiata clutch and what’s one you personally like?
2) Not too many people running them should be a clue, and not in the direction you're headed
3) because it's not the 1950s and we don't need to vent pads anymore
4) Any of those three are good. I have ACTs on both of my cars at the moment, but i'm also not in need of holding power like you are, so my experience with them are irrelevant other than that they're quality clutches.
Reply
0
0
08-28-2018, 08:34 PM
#51
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 54
Total Cats: -7
1) 225s are best on a 9
2) Not too many people running them should be a clue, and not in the direction you're headed
3) because it's not the 1950s and we don't need to vent pads anymore
4) Any of those three are good. I have ACTs on both of my cars at the moment, but i'm also not in need of holding power like you are, so my experience with them are irrelevant other than that they're quality clutches.
2) Not too many people running them should be a clue, and not in the direction you're headed
3) because it's not the 1950s and we don't need to vent pads anymore
4) Any of those three are good. I have ACTs on both of my cars at the moment, but i'm also not in need of holding power like you are, so my experience with them are irrelevant other than that they're quality clutches.
2. True but I’ll take my chances with them and go on from that point
3. Maybe your mistaking them for a drilled rotor (has multiple holes imo those are for aesthetics) for a slotted rotor with a slash like indent on the rotor
4. ACT has some reasonable prices for clutches and SuperMiata seems to be a fan favorite so those are on my radar
Reply
-2
-2
08-28-2018, 08:37 PM
#52
1. Is it cause a 15x8 has a bit of side was play or?
2. True but I’ll take my chances with them and go on from that point
3. Maybe your mistaking them for a drilled rotor (has multiple holes imo those are for aesthetics) for a slotted rotor with a slash like indent on the rotor
4. ACT has some reasonable prices for clutches and SuperMiata seems to be a fan favorite so those are on my radar
2) GL fam.
3) I'm not.
Reply
0
0
08-28-2018, 08:46 PM
#53
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 54
Total Cats: -7
2. Thanks and well I’m hoping I won’t be in for a **** show if I do them you’ll see go on a rant on this thread or new one haha
3. Hmm well then then I guess flat rotors saves me a bit of $
Reply
-1
-1
08-28-2018, 08:48 PM
#54
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 1,552
Total Cats: 196
Why every noob that comes here wants to be different, we tell him he is 
then he wants to be "unique" 
by running parts that no one recommends, and most say to not use?
stock bore, WHY? if building a $3000-4000 engine, what possible reason is there to stick to stock bore size?
Stock compression, at least you agreed is beneficial to go lower.
overpriced trix coilovers that no one runs, cost $1900, same as the BEST miata coilovers the Xida.
then he wants to be "unique" by running parts that no one recommends, and most say to not use?stock bore, WHY? if building a $3000-4000 engine, what possible reason is there to stick to stock bore size?
Stock compression, at least you agreed is beneficial to go lower.
overpriced trix coilovers that no one runs, cost $1900, same as the BEST miata coilovers the Xida.
Reply
0
0
08-28-2018, 08:56 PM
#56
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 126
Total Cats: 38
Sounds like someone watches thecarpassionchannel and is trying to replicate many parts of his build without understanding it.
OP, before you go down the massive rabbit hole and spend $15k on all the goodness I suggest taking your time, upgrade in stages and learn a lot.
First, put a megasquirt on your MSM, with a wideband and EBC, maybe do the injectors and fuel pump, get it tuned and live with it for a little while, you should get 200-210whp on it. No exhaust/intake mods at this time so you limit the potential, but that would be a waste of money if you continue with the plan for a different turbo, never the less it will feel night and day better than the stock ECU.
Then get the turbo (just go with Trackspeed, save yourself some headache), get it installed and tuned, you'll be able to hit 250-270whp on your stock motor if you get it tuned well. Live with that for a little while, do the clutch, do suspension, decide if you need brakes, do all the other fun mods. Oh yeah, maybe do a radiator at this point (again, TSE is your friend).
Then when you get bored, or the motor starts showing signs of wear, do the full engine build. You'll decide your original plan of 280whp is boring and you'll want all of it and end up about 320whp.
If you do the whole thing at once with your current understanding of Miatas and turbos, you're gonna have a bad bad time. You'll sell your car and a pile of parts for penny's on the dollar. OR, give the car to a professional along with a big pile of cash and step away for a few months while they build it (this is a serious and viable option if you have the money!).
OP, before you go down the massive rabbit hole and spend $15k on all the goodness I suggest taking your time, upgrade in stages and learn a lot.
First, put a megasquirt on your MSM, with a wideband and EBC, maybe do the injectors and fuel pump, get it tuned and live with it for a little while, you should get 200-210whp on it. No exhaust/intake mods at this time so you limit the potential, but that would be a waste of money if you continue with the plan for a different turbo, never the less it will feel night and day better than the stock ECU.
Then get the turbo (just go with Trackspeed, save yourself some headache), get it installed and tuned, you'll be able to hit 250-270whp on your stock motor if you get it tuned well. Live with that for a little while, do the clutch, do suspension, decide if you need brakes, do all the other fun mods. Oh yeah, maybe do a radiator at this point (again, TSE is your friend).
Then when you get bored, or the motor starts showing signs of wear, do the full engine build. You'll decide your original plan of 280whp is boring and you'll want all of it and end up about 320whp.
If you do the whole thing at once with your current understanding of Miatas and turbos, you're gonna have a bad bad time. You'll sell your car and a pile of parts for penny's on the dollar. OR, give the car to a professional along with a big pile of cash and step away for a few months while they build it (this is a serious and viable option if you have the money!).
Reply
0
0
08-28-2018, 08:57 PM
#57
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 54
Total Cats: -7
Why every noob that comes here wants to be different, we tell him he is then he wants to be "unique" by running parts that no one recommends, and most say to not use?
stock bore, WHY? if building a $3000-4000 engine, what possible reason is there to stick to stock bore size?
Stock compression, at least you agreed is beneficial to go lower.
overpriced trix coilovers that no one runs, cost $1900, same as the BEST miata coilovers the Xida.
then he wants to be "unique" by running parts that no one recommends, and most say to not use?stock bore, WHY? if building a $3000-4000 engine, what possible reason is there to stick to stock bore size?
Stock compression, at least you agreed is beneficial to go lower.
overpriced trix coilovers that no one runs, cost $1900, same as the BEST miata coilovers the Xida.
Reply
0
0
08-28-2018, 09:13 PM
#58
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 54
Total Cats: -7
Sounds like someone watches thecarpassionchannel and is trying to replicate many parts of his build without understanding it.
OP, before you go down the massive rabbit hole and spend $15k on all the goodness I suggest taking your time, upgrade in stages and learn a lot.
First, put a megasquirt on your MSM, with a wideband and EBC, maybe do the injectors and fuel pump, get it tuned and live with it for a little while, you should get 200-210whp on it. No exhaust/intake mods at this time so you limit the potential, but that would be a waste of money if you continue with the plan for a different turbo, never the less it will feel night and day better than the stock ECU.
Then get the turbo (just go with Trackspeed, save yourself some headache), get it installed and tuned, you'll be able to hit 250-270whp on your stock motor if you get it tuned well. Live with that for a little while, do the clutch, do suspension, decide if you need brakes, do all the other fun mods. Oh yeah, maybe do a radiator at this point (again, TSE is your friend).
Then when you get bored, or the motor starts showing signs of wear, do the full engine build. You'll decide your original plan of 280whp is boring and you'll want all of it and end up about 320whp.
If you do the whole thing at once with your current understanding of Miatas and turbos, you're gonna have a bad bad time. You'll sell your car and a pile of parts for penny's on the dollar. OR, give the car to a professional along with a big pile of cash and step away for a few months while they build it (this is a serious and viable option if you have the money!).
OP, before you go down the massive rabbit hole and spend $15k on all the goodness I suggest taking your time, upgrade in stages and learn a lot.
First, put a megasquirt on your MSM, with a wideband and EBC, maybe do the injectors and fuel pump, get it tuned and live with it for a little while, you should get 200-210whp on it. No exhaust/intake mods at this time so you limit the potential, but that would be a waste of money if you continue with the plan for a different turbo, never the less it will feel night and day better than the stock ECU.
Then get the turbo (just go with Trackspeed, save yourself some headache), get it installed and tuned, you'll be able to hit 250-270whp on your stock motor if you get it tuned well. Live with that for a little while, do the clutch, do suspension, decide if you need brakes, do all the other fun mods. Oh yeah, maybe do a radiator at this point (again, TSE is your friend).
Then when you get bored, or the motor starts showing signs of wear, do the full engine build. You'll decide your original plan of 280whp is boring and you'll want all of it and end up about 320whp.
If you do the whole thing at once with your current understanding of Miatas and turbos, you're gonna have a bad bad time. You'll sell your car and a pile of parts for penny's on the dollar. OR, give the car to a professional along with a big pile of cash and step away for a few months while they build it (this is a serious and viable option if you have the money!).
Reply
0
0
08-28-2018, 09:27 PM
#59
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 126
Total Cats: 38
It's easy to get beat down here if you don't do your due diligence, I'm surprised people have been as nice as they have to you actually. There's been a lot of spoon feeding lately now that I think about it.
I watch Greg's videos too, they're entertaining and I think they contain some useful information. But he's been at it a long time, he researches, he takes chances here or there and is prepared to discover and correct mistakes (IAT on the intake manifold FFS!). He has reasons behind doing what he does and using the parts and it's not always the best way, sometimes it's budget based, sometimes it's sponsor based. He has knowledge and experience to backup his decisions though, so don't just follow what he does without giving it some thought and your own research.
I have an MSM, I'm taking my own advice, it's actually the collective advice of other's experience across nearly 30 years of the Miata's existence. I'm currently running the stock motor and turbo on a Megasquirt with a flex fuel setup for 250whp on E85 (with a bunch of other supporting and unrelated mods). I'm hoping to stay here for another year, then upgrade the turbo setup (TSE is my forerunner). Then do the motor after that. In the meantime, I read everything. I come up with questions that may or may not be relevant to me in the future and I research it. My plans have evolved many many times, yours will too, so my advice to you is: don't rush!
I watch Greg's videos too, they're entertaining and I think they contain some useful information. But he's been at it a long time, he researches, he takes chances here or there and is prepared to discover and correct mistakes (IAT on the intake manifold FFS!). He has reasons behind doing what he does and using the parts and it's not always the best way, sometimes it's budget based, sometimes it's sponsor based. He has knowledge and experience to backup his decisions though, so don't just follow what he does without giving it some thought and your own research.
I have an MSM, I'm taking my own advice, it's actually the collective advice of other's experience across nearly 30 years of the Miata's existence. I'm currently running the stock motor and turbo on a Megasquirt with a flex fuel setup for 250whp on E85 (with a bunch of other supporting and unrelated mods). I'm hoping to stay here for another year, then upgrade the turbo setup (TSE is my forerunner). Then do the motor after that. In the meantime, I read everything. I come up with questions that may or may not be relevant to me in the future and I research it. My plans have evolved many many times, yours will too, so my advice to you is: don't rush!
Reply
0
0
08-28-2018, 09:32 PM
#60
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 1,552
Total Cats: 196
Greg runs the trix coilovers because they were given to him for advertising. Not because they are awesome.
same with his dual plate clutch, which btw destroyed TWO 6 speed transmissions in a matter of weeks.
So dont take his parts selection as gospel
same with his dual plate clutch, which btw destroyed TWO 6 speed transmissions in a matter of weeks.
So dont take his parts selection as gospel
Reply
0
0
