jacob300zx

Every new person here asking for build advice should be required to post a picture of a ton of hundred dollar bills or a big boy credit card. This whole thread stinks of an 18 year old kid looking at a playboy...everyone put your spoons up

AlwaysBroken

I don't understand the big deal about going to 84mm pistons. It's the most common size fora reason. That saves enough block for you to rebore two more times before you needa new block. Unless you're stupid at tuning, that should last you like 20 years. And new short blocks are practically free at the pick and pull.

Also, upgrade in stages. Learn megasquirt before you tear the engine apart. You want to havea perfectly running car before you rebuild so that when you put it back together you don't have to worry if your base map is weird or you put the timing belt on wrong.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

1. Extremely minimal measurable power/torque/spool benefit between 83.5mm and 84mm. Like, so minimal you would be hard-pressed to measure it accurately enough to quantify it.
2. 83.5mm and 84mm are available in a variety of compression ratios from a variety of MFGs. At 84.5mm that selection drops dramatically. At 85mm it falls again, and I'd say roughly 30-40% of BP blocks are not appropriate for use with forced induction at an 85mm bore size. So if you bore to 84mm the first time, and your preferred piston isn't available in 84.5mm, you're hosed. Whereas with 83.5mm, every 83.5mm slug is also available in 84mm.
3. If new short blocks are "practically free" at the pick and pull, you should quit your job and buy them to resell, because the going rate for a healthy STD/STD BP crank is $250-300 right now.

1RMDave

It's almost impossible to find a BP where I live, I literally had to buy an na8 to get one.

AlwaysBroken

Wow, I had no idea they had gotten so pricey. That's insane. I used the BP because it was cheap, not because it was good.