levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

This is how I currently have mine, my catch can takes several thousand miles before it fills up with enough condensation that it starts to spill out.

That would be ideal for me also. My problem is too much crank case pressure. Now that I'm at 26 psi oil starts seeping past the dip stick tube o-ring after a few WOT runs, even with a brand new o-ring. It's fine under normal driving and my car still holds ~20in of vacuum so I doubt there's anything major wrong. I drilled out the breather side port of my valve cover last night and put in a 3/8 to 5/8 hose barb there and in the pcv side. I will run both to a much larger catch can that has a 2" breather filter on top with 5/8 hose. I still think I need to vent the crank case some how.
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levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

Cspence, does that not happen on your car? Maybe it wouldn't be a problem on a car that dosen't see the track?
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ctdrftna

iTrader: (1)

Well another solution would be to run a vaccum pump

TrackTestedMiata

Im running a Greddy Catch, I have a b6t v/c, im going to try using the port in the vc near the tb and drain into the greddy drain location, that big plug by the alternator.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

here's how real men do it:

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

Brain's examples are the best VTA catch can method, for pretty much all cars. You can port the brether like you did Phil, but the issue is that the actual holes drilled in the adjoining "pockets" in the vc baffles are all pretty small. And there isn't enough meat to make them much bigger.

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

I already have both the pcv port and breather port drilled out to 5/8" fittings. Which is = to -10an. Those are hooked up to a large catch can with a 2" breather. So that should be large enough for up top. I think I'm also going to run a hose from the nipple on the side of the block below the alt to my smaller catch can and let that vent to atmosphere. This should allow the crank case to breathe.

Thoughts?
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Bryce

iTrader: (24)

Do that. FTW. If that doesn't fix it, you've got issues.

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

You didn't connect with what I said I guess. The vented air in the head enters the vc through the baffles at the center of the VC. It then travels through a series of drilled holes to the actual external ports. The drilled holes are only like MAYBE 1/8". No where near -10AN. If you modded the VC like they big boost honda boys with ports directly exposed to the inside of the head and small baffles to prevent excessive oil suction you would eliminate pretty much all of your issues.

I would plug the current holes, have 2 -10AN bungs welded on like in the pics. Run those to a catch can that is VTA. Then on the bottom of the catch can I would have an outlet with a hose that runs to the block vent. This way when you are out of boost the **** in the can would drain back into the sump. There are TONS of OEM turboed cars that do this, works fine and you never have to drain your **** again. Also, its best to have a properly baffled catch can and not fill it with any stuffing or other ****. You don't want any small particles from filler getting into your oil and possibly abrading anything.

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

I got you, guess I'll be taking my valve cover back off.
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thymer

iTrader: (5)

I don't understand the oil catch can thing. I've just got the driver side port on the valve cover VTA with a filter and the 323GTX PCV valve. Never seen a drop of oil. Am I missing something?

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

Ya, you aren't running 26PSI so you aren't getting anywhere near the amount of blowby he is that is pressurizing his crank case.

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

Ok, new plan. Neo and I discussed via IM. What I'm going to do is drill a bunch of small holes into the baffle plates on the under side of the valve cover at the opposite ends of the breather ports. That should really allow the head the breathe and not allow excessive oil to escape.


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thymer

iTrader: (5)

Gotcha, I'm only running 18

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

What Neo said, I had no issues when I was at 20-22 psi. Now that I'm at 26 the pressure is building.
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bbundy

Oil will splash up into those holes and excessive amounts will come out your breather if you do that. Heck it does that even if you forget to put sealant on those plates before you put them back on.

Bob

bbundy

It depends on the weather. 40 degrees and overcast humid where the tailpipe is also blowing steam out till it warms up and mine will fill up within a tank of gas depending on how many cold starts that includes. a bit warmer and less humid and it takes a long time.

Bob

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

**** you're right. I took those plates off once to get a valve cover powder coated and I didn't use sealent when I put them back on. Oil came out of the ports like crazy and that was with my 2554 at 8 psi.
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bbundy

I think the Return spot Cspense is using is much higher than the oil pan it is actually right beside the Oil filter in the block. As far as I can tell this return location was only available as cast in to very early 1.6l blocks and was later removed. I had it in my original 1990 block but not a 1993 and I have seen it in J-spec imported B6t’s but not on all us-spec 323 GTX’s . US spec GTX’s had a pipe cast into the pan that was just capped off.

I had a return tapped into the oil pan just under the alternator. It worked fine until taking it to a track that had a 120mph downhill with a braking zone into a second gear corner. This situation resulted in Oil all aver my engine compartment.

After discovering how much oil slosh there really is in the pan I am also considering installing an Accusump.

Bob

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

That's the same port my block has. I'm definitely going to open that up to relieve crank case pressure.
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