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Old 02-11-2013, 03:58 PM   #21
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if someone did the stats, I have a higher post count in threads with pictures than without...


probably 10:1-20:1


i also derail threads to talk about myself and my shortcomings.
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:00 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
If you don't move the thermostat to the back of the engine, you MUST keep the bleed line at the water neck for proper thermostat operation.
Ah. Understood. Edited old post with new information.

To the OP, if you want to spend less on parts and still do a reroute there are people on here doing spacerless reroutes. The cheapest way to get out of this is to try and adapt your 1.6 neck, but it might be easier to just buy a 1.8 neck from someone who has deleted theirs. IIRC I saw some on one of the used parts sites in the $20-$30 range.
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:00 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
if someone did the stats, I have a higher post count in threads with pictures than without...


probably 10:1-20:1


i also derail threads to talk about myself and my shortcomings.
46k posts
just sayin
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:14 AM   #24
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ok so upon further research i have decided to do the re route. there will be no better or eisier time than now when the motor is on a stand...i found parts to do it cheap..there is this fitting..Ford F1CZ 8597 A | eBay
this is from the back of the head of a ford escort 1.8 gt. it shall replace the 1 line fitting that is there now that feeds the oil cooler. now the small nipple will feed the oil cooler and the larger one will be plumed to the heater core...then i can thrown a stat in the head and put my 1.6 housing over it...the 1.6 housing will hold the temp sensor and i can run the coolent line down the hotside to the radiator. the front has been tapped and plugged and the small lines now bypass the neck to the mixing manifold. front thermostat removed and capped off also...total money spent $55 with hoses..now the only issie i have left is i needed to remove the egr crossover tube to fit all this behind the head. the block off plates with shiping is crazy....maybe i can offset that by selling the tube? or should i just cut the tube and have it welded at each end? i dont think im missing anything.
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:39 PM   #25
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Neat. I always wondered if you could just buy those separate nipples. You'll need a hose with a pre-formed 180* bend in it, or you'll kink it going from the nipple to the heater core. You could also use a spring inside to reinforce it.

Someone over on M.net is using the stainless flexible gas pipe from the hardware store for his EGR pipe. He claimed that the tube just screws onto the header fitting (probably only 94-97 and 01+ headers) and that he used a compression fitting on a cut piece of the intake side of the tube to join it together.

EGR Hard Line simple Fix - Coolant reroute - MX-5 Miata Forum
Proflex CSST

The EGR tubes on my Camaro and my S10 were essentially large bore heavy wall versions of the same. It should work fine, but YMMV.
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:32 PM   #26
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I recommend that you test fit as much as you can on the engine stand. Much easier to take care of conflicts there. Even with my simple reroute, I ran into some conflicts that would have been a PITA to remedy after putting the engine back in.
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Old 02-12-2013, 03:06 PM   #27
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when my motor was out i cleaned the back wall and bent that lip in with all the calking on in. Could have been a bad move by me but with that thing bent in and no coil pack, there is a decent amount of room back there. I was worried about being able to change my thermostat but i'm not anymore! It'll be even better when I upgrade my ms and can remove the cas from the back.

note: the lip im talking about isn't in the way of anything specifically but I could see catching tools and knuckles on it.
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:18 PM   #28
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I was thinking I could find a hose at the auto stouter that was close enough but the spring idea is also a good suggestion....don't think ill bother with the egr there is no emissions here....and I got a super thermostat that is designed to stay open if it fails..so I won't get stranded anywhere and I won't need to rush to fix right away...peyote down here sometimes run with no thermostat at all but I thought this was a better choice...snag Tire it might be a pita to change if it fails.....
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:37 PM   #29
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IIRC there was a reason not to get Stant's SuperStat thermostats for the Miata.

https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...rmostat-66774/

I'd keep the EGR hooked up, but I also live in a pollution controlled city. It's one of the only emissions systems to actually work (the others being a cat, vapor canister, and the PCV valve) and does increase MPG's at cruise as well as reducing NOx. It also makes your intake filthy, but I've been told that the cause of that is cheap gas and poor maintenance/burning oil.

Sooner or later the gub'mnt is gonna push the EPA standards nationally, and by removing emissions equipment for convenience you're just another "evil street racer" driving a "gross polluting vehicle" that they love to make examples out of.

Now if we were talking about deleting an air pump (80's-90's vehicles) and installing a proper catalytic converter that didn't require an oxidation step, then I'd be all in with you about removing that crap.
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