Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1163882)
And you'll basically need to replace the oil pump in order to get the crank trigger on a 94-95. IIRC the boss is there so if you're a fucking judo master with a hand drill you could drill and tap it maybe.
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Are you sure the hole in the pump for the sensor is not threaded? I'm like 99% sure mine was threaded on my 94 pump.
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I just went out & scraped the crap of mine. It looks tapped. I couldn't get an M6 to start in it though.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4a76fe48b1.jpg |
Before I posted that I checked my 94 block, it wasnt threaded. The 97 block I have is threaded, well duh because there's the VR crank sensor there for OBDII cars. It should only be original non-OBDII car oil pumps that lack the thread.
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It's a '94 block. The pan sealant sure looked factory when I pulled it, but I guess the oil pump could have been replaced some time in its life. I guess the moral of the story is check first.
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Maybe I'm getting the split wrong? Maybe it was a mid year 94 change.
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When you say the boss wasn't tapped, do you mean there was just a flat boss with no hole, or did it look like the one below. That's about the best shot I could get, and I still don't see threads. Like i said, I couldn't get an M6 in there, so there could be threads buried down in there.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...21f7da5a75.jpg |
Mine was flat, undrilled. From your picture it looks like you could run an M6x1.00 tap in the hole and it would work.
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Tonight or tomorrow I'll go out to the garage and check the few oil pumps I have.
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It's cool finding the little variants in mass produced things.
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Along this same line of thinking, if I'm going to integrate crank sensory into a '94 block, I need to add a timing wheel. This is gonna change the stackup thickness of all the things bolted to the nose of the crank. Would I need to replace the pulley and/or boss with a NB specific equivalent? I have to think that something's thinner to accommodate for the timing wheel.
Edit: this answered my question. Boss changed in 96 when crank position wheel was introduced. http://www.planet-miata.com/index.ph...ch-item&idn=89 |
Originally Posted by wackbards
(Post 1376924)
Along this same line of thinking, if I'm going to integrate crank sensory into a '94 block, I need to add a timing wheel. This is gonna change the stackup thickness of all the things bolted to the nose of the crank. Would I need to replace the pulley and/or boss with a NB specific equivalent? I have to think that something's thinner to accommodate for the timing wheel.
Edit: this answered my question. Boss changed in 96 when crank position wheel was introduced. *Planet-Miata.com - Your #1 source for Mazda Miata new and used parts and accessories. Correct you need the 96 or new boss. |
Tap the hole, I bet it's the right diameter for m6x1 threads. Start tapping it, once it bottoms out, grind the tap flat on a bench grinder. Then tap the bottom of the hole. Kinda ruins a m6x1 tap, but it's still useful for chasing threads and if you're careful creating new ones. Plus they're only about $10.
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The hole should be drilled correctly for M6x1.0. We had to do this on some of the very early BE pumps (like 6 years ago) before Travis started tapping them all at our request.
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Originally Posted by curly
Tap the hole, I bet it's the right diameter for m6x1 threads. Start tapping it, once it bottoms out, grind the tap flat on a bench grinder. Then tap the bottom of the hole. Kinda ruins a m6x1 tap, but it's still useful for chasing threads and if you're careful creating new ones. Plus they're only about $10.
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Yes if you can find one that'll work. Generally when you add coating, different tips, or other features like spiral flutes and what not the price goes up.
$1.60: https://www.walmart.com/ip/WESTWARD-...&wl13=&veh=sem $17.22 https://www.zoro.com/osg-spiral-poin...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds |
Bottoming M6 taps are ~$7 at McMaster
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I do not understand the purpose of a spiral point plug tap. A spiral point tap is made the way it is to propel all the chips forward, generally used in through holes only. Using one in a blind hole will lead to tears.
Regardless, the second tap Curly posted is not a hand tap and should not be used as such. It's made for highly rigid tapping machines, it'll break if you look at it funny. When you grind the point off a tap you need to be sure it's done perfectly perpendicular to the threads, it's possible to have too many thread starts with a three flute hand tap if you grind the end off at an angle. It will shred stuff, quick. I do not like doing it, at all. I'd just use a normal tap and find a slightly shorter bolt. 1.5x bolt major diameter is plenty of engagement for something like that. |
Bottom taps aren't special or exotic. They are right next to the starter and plug taps for the same price. Grinding a tap flat with out the proper end chamfer is also stupid as it always leaves the last tooth or 2 super thin, and it usually breaks off in the bottom of the hole once it starts taking a chip load.
USA made M6x1 bottom tap for $7 shipped |
Exotic bottoming tap just sounds dirty.
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