Specifically came here looking for answer to this. I bought the FM 1.8 swap kit and already modified my coil to work on a 99 motor ( which turn out to have crank walk ).

FM site says their coil bracket is not compatible with VVT unless you relocate the feed line .. which doesn't seem that difficult IMO .. so for discussion sake lets assume I can do that and mount the modified 1.6 coil pack if needed.

The FM guide says verbatim "You must reuse your 1.6 coils, as the 1.8 coils aren’t compatible with the 1.6 electronics.", though I'm sure Andrew's wiring guide in the OP works as well.

To complicate things a bit further, I have a 1.6 COP setup I stumbled into from a part out car. Not sure any details on these ( brands / ect ) just know it worked well on a built 1.6 I drove for about 45 min home.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...515fdd61ff.png


Which method is preferable between the three ? Currently I'm leaning to going with the 1.6 modified coil setup for ease of install.

Second question ..

I also wanted to use the 1.8 TB + VTPS. However, I already have the 1.6 TB mounted to the intake manifold with the FM adapter. Would it be easier to try to get the car started first with that 1.6 setup first and then swap over to VTPS as a seperate projectafter car is running ?

I'm already going to try using the VVT wiring vs the 1.6 CAS to get the car to start initially. Worried about changing too many things at once and end up chasing my tail if it doesn't start.

Not sure about the coils since I'm still using NA8 coils on my VVT swap, but the tps is very easy to set up in tunerstudio. This vehicle does have a variable TPS. You should calibrate it properly from TunerStudio in the ‘Tools’ menu. Choose ‘Calibrate TPS’.
-Make sure the engine is off and the key is on
- With your foot off of the throttle, click the ‘Closed Throttle ADC Count – GET CURRENT’ Button.
- Put the throttle to the floor. With your foot fully depressing the throttle, click the ‘Full Throttle ADC Count – GET CURRENT’ Button.
-Click close.

Thanks. I think I'll use my NA6 coils as well then to keep things as simple as possible to just start it. Afterward we can wire in COP or NB1 plugs if needed.

NB2 coils are the only ones that will fit the narrower plug wells of the VVT valve cover without some work. If you don't mind razor blading plug wires it shouldn't be a problem to run remote coils. My homework has led me to understand Toyota COPS won't fit.

You can get an idea what will be needed in this video:

Yea, I just finished installing Toyota COP on my VVT swap. Ive been running 1.6 coils with most of the boots cut so they fit. The COP took milling out the holes and removing alot of the plastic and secure bracket from the Coils themselves. Heres what it looked like while I was finishing the wiringhttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b7d120e026.jpg

Silverstorm, could you post up a pic of where your NA8 coilpack is mounted ? I'm having a hard time finding a good spot for it because with the CAS in as well. Going step by step and just trying to get the car started with CAS before playing with VVT sensor wiring.

I had the same train of thought: Just get it running. Soooooo... I literally unbolted the coils from the mount and they're just sitting on the back of the head. The car runs like this but it does have a strange issue where it sounds like the coils aren't firing intermittently for about 30 seconds after start cold or hot.

If you are going to mount them like that put some insulator(i just cut pieces of rubber and zip tied it) around the connections on the coilpack. I had a few times where it would arc to the head and would loose spark to the plug, which was a terrifying find. Also secure them so they dont move as they will arc to any ground, even if you just use zipties. I ran mine like that for about 2000miles and didnt have too many issues

Cool thanks for the pic. I'll try that and insulate them well. Won't be driving around with it much. Mostly just want to get it going and then start work on VVT / turbo / E85 and then everything will go to Trackspeed for tuning. :)

Got everything hooked up and started it yesterday with my NA6 coil and CAS. Ignition timing was just set to 'middle-ish' so it wasn't running great.


I didn't set ignition timing afterward because it was kinda late at night already when I got back around to it and the car is LOUD ( no exhaust ).
I figured just leave the CAS alone and work on wiring up the VVT coils.

My donor harness is a 93, so .... pretty straight forward .. so I thought.

Step 1. Cut off the igniter and connector in one swoop, leaving enough wire to re-connect in case.

Step 2. Connect the wire on the harness side per Andrew's first post ( white -> brown / yellow & red -> brown & yellow/blue -> black/white ) with spade connectors in case I get it wrong I can switch.
One thing that did concern me here was the red / white wires was in a shielded sleeve. The wire shielding was twisted and grounded to that black wire. I had to cut open the shielding a bit more to expose enough of the red / white wire. I did accidentally nip some strands of shielding going to that black wire. Not sure how significant that is.

Step 3. Tape off the unused +12v ( blue ) and unused ground ( black ).

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...54551c4009.jpg

Step 4. Cut off the connector to the NA6 coil pack.

Step 5. Connect the wire on the harness side to the NB coil loom ( white -> brown ) ( red -> black / white ) ( blue -> black / white .. there's two of these .. I wired them both to the blue assume each one brings the juice to each coil ).

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e1522505e3.jpg

Surprise surprise car doesn't start again ...


It catches for a split second and die almost as if no gas .. but .. I didn't mess with gas except to add in 2 gallon of fresh 91. Checked for gas leak there was none. Fuel pump heard priming with key on. Made sure AFM plug is connected. I sprayed some starter fluid into the manifold and it seems to run for a split second longer. Wasn't able to try continuously spraying starter fluid while cranking because I was by myself. Any ideas ?

I'm kicking myself right now for not just saying f' it yesterday and just set the ignition timing at night.

Just did a bit more testing .. spark plug is firing. Plug is not wet but cylinder smell like gas. I've been playing with ignition timing via CAS for the past 15-20 min with making minute adjustments and attempting to start the car but its not really working.

Okay, after much research, I was able to find this thread ( https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...athread-80666/ ).
Pretty much exactly what I'm experiencing. VVT will start but will immediately die.

Quotes from the other thread:

This would have been useful to me in the original post because I was under the assumption that I didn't NEED to wire in my MS3 before trying to take out the CAS and switch over to VVT wiring. Would have saved me quite a bit of time and frustration yesterday. I literally was going to either (1) put back the 93 wiring or (2) tow to a shop if I wasn't able to figure it out today. :)

Wired up my 01 throttle body for which included NB VTPS and IAC valve over the weekend. That turned out to be pretty easy ( as Savington said in the OP ) but the actual wiring direction took me quite a bit of Googling to find the info so figure I'll include here for others to reference.

Source:
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.php?p=3119113&postcount=2
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...2/#post1198162

Also wired up my NB coils. I had expected to need to make some changes in TS to my spark setting, so I found Braineack's settings. However, these proved unnecessary as my car started up just fine with "NA" settings. It seems to be more hesitant to rev than with the NA coil setup but started and idle the same. I did try Braineack's settings for fun and the car didn't start so I reverted it .. then moved on.

Next up was attempting to wire in the NB crank / cam sensors. This is my problem dejour. Car refused to start again after this. I'm using the OEM NB 4 teeth wheel and checked that the crank sensor is 1 credit card away from the teeth.

Here's what my log looks like .. does it look like my sensors are working ? Is there some settings I need to change in TS to set it from using CAS to using NB sensors ?
Let me know if you need the graphs to show different fields. There's a bunch of options and I'm not sure which one is helpful. This was the default.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ee60651423.png

Did you wire the NB sensors to MS through the CAS plug? If so I think you have to change some jumpers around in your MS. Yes you need to change settings in TS, couldn't tell you what since I haven't done it yet.

Thanks. I'm looking for settings to change now. My latest attempt was with ignition table.

Spark mode changed from 4G63 to Miata 99-0.
Ignition input capture changed from Rising Edge to Falling Edge.
Source ( https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...1/ ).

However, none of that work. My MS won't even grab a composite log and right now I'm not sure if that's a defective MS or if I have a wrong setting in there somewhere.

[rant]
What pisses me off the most about this situation is Reverant and MS Labs. I'm not normally a person to call out a business publicly but I feel like this is something that must be voiced. I've tried to be very very very patient with them.

Back in June, before sending a small fortune to a some random person in Greece, I made sure to ask if I needed future support, maps / ect, if he could provide it. Sure, no problem. Now I've ran into issues since 2 months ago ( August 5th ) and messaged him for support. Got one reply after 9 days ( and TWO follow up email from me ) saying he's on vacation and to reach him next week. Sure, no problem! Next week I reach out and again and have since never heard back from him. That was Aug 14th. Since then I've sent him maybe 4-5 emails begging for the promised 'support'. I've reached out on FB. The entire time I see his profile login into this forum daily so I know he get messages alerts. I see the FB chat I left him being read and ignored. I have gone as far as to request just a courtesy reply, even if it is to say that he's not going to help me, so I could set my expectation and no longer waste my time asking. Nothing. Dead silence for 6 weeks now. He's won. I've given up on his support.

As an MS noob, I can't explain to you guys how much I regret buying my MS from him vs spending a bit more for the DIY pro version where I can call them up for support or even going for Braineack's MS3X where he's at least been TRYING to help me ( a non customer ) with some of my issues.
[/rant]

Good news! After tinkering more with the settings ( timing ), I was able to get it to sputter to life though it still sounds like sh!t and back firing a lot. The better news is I was able to grab a composite log. Not sure why changing timing would affect that, but I'm not complaining.

Here's my spark setting & composite log if any of you MS experts wants to take a look and help ( please ? :bowdown: ) .

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c7e094edac.jpg

Is there an acceptable range of trigger angle / offset ? I'm able to get the car started ( though runs like crap ) with seemingly random values from 2 to 39 though adjusting that value it seems to have a random correlation to where the timing gun shows my mark.

Not an expert by any stretch of the imagination, but your settings look the same as mine. I found that my timing gun only works correctly if I keep it at zero degrees and not try to compensate for the 10 degrees of offset. Mine is an MS3 rev unit with a Mk2.5 VVT engine in a '94 Mk1 car. Have the same problem with contacting Reverant, not happening, and I have bought 2 ECU's from him. Very disappointing.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...08bfadab5e.jpg

Thanks for posting that. After so many misfire / backfire cranking attempts, I decided to leave the tuning to those who knows better. I hooked the CAS back up and the car starts perfectly. Confirmation at least that timing is the only major issue right now. I'll drive it around with the CAS until I get an appointment with TSE.