Follow up for anyone who feels like helping this newb! So I bought new connectors for my NB TPS and IAC, the only problem is, they have all black leads coming from them and I can't for the life of me figure out which wires to connect them too. On the TPS, I know you ignore the red one. Can someone post from top to bottom on the sensor which is which (5v, signal, and ground?)

From the wiring diagram it looks like:

Top: 5V
Middle: Singal
Bottom: Ground

I just want to be sure I am not reading this upside down...

try this

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f477f01b5e.png
​​​​​​got my friend to send a pic of his 99.

​​​​​​Top: green/black (signal)
Middle: black/red (ground)

I have a 1994 Miata race car that needs a new motor. Do not care about emissions or car classing. I have a friend selling a 05 VVT Engine and a Square Top Intake Manifold. Before I jump in and buy the motor I want some validation/feedback that my plan is feasible.

Current engine
· 01 Block / 2000 head with exhaust cam swap
· Toyota COPS firing off of the CAS at the back of the exhaust cam
· MS PNP using IAT and engine vacumn
· M-Tuned Fuel rail with recently cleaned stock injectors and an external FPR on the firewall at 60 lbs

VVT plan
· Use the existing 94 wiring where possible
· Ignition - put the CAS in and the run COPS (trimmed to fit)(have the stock 05 coils if needed)
· Fuel – use the M-Tuned fuel rail and external FPR – square top manifold – stock injectors
· Throttle Body – have the stock 94 – also have a Skunkworks2 that plugs into stock harness – also have the stock 05 – don’t know which way to go yet
· Run the VVT off of the VVTuner using inputs from the front Cam Angle Sensor and the Crank Angle Sensor

Questions – do I need to link the VVTuner to the MSPNP? Do I need to wire the Idle Air Control to the VVTuner? Anything I am missing?

NB throttle cable
 

So I literally ripped out my NA throttle cable and went to install the NB cable I sourced and have an issue.

The end of the cable that attaches to the thottle cable doesn't seem to fit correctly. The metal ball at the end is smaller in diameter compared to the larger metal disk at the end of the NA cable. The smaller ball doesn't seem to catch correctly in the pedal assembly.

What am I missing? Thanks!

NA and NB cables are identical except for the length.

IIRC, there's a green plastic clip that is supposed to sit in between the ball on the cable end and the pedal assy.

***Edit***

​​​​if memory serves, that green clip is what actually attached the cable to the pedal.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...910eebef5e.jpg

Please see pictures. Ends are different and metal ball is too small. My car is a 94. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...59ab6c62ac.jpg

Yeah. The green plastic thing clips into the pedal. The metal ball pulls against the green plastic thing, not directly against the gas pedal.

Cool guess I just misunderstood how it worked.

No, you don't need to link VVT to the MSPNP. They don't know the other exists, and operate as such. VVT tuner will alter VE, so your tune in the MS should compensate with fueling and ignition. VVT tuner is literally just a giant PWM controller, with MAP, CMP, and CKP inputs.

As always, I'd highly recommend taking this opportunity to upgrade to a MS3 Basic, available from Trackspeed Engineering. It's always going to run better when you not only upgrade the ECU, but also integrate the VVT control into the main ECU. This would also allow you to run higher resolution in your trigger wheel, and eliminate the CAS and it's wiring.

As for throttle bodies, you have to switch IAC and TPS pigtails, but I would use the NB unit, since it integrates the IAC inlet, eliminating the plumbing it requires. Much smaller IAC as well for an altogether cleaner look.

Fuel line
 

Can someone please give me a bit more detail on this? Do I cut the 01-05 plastic line, slip over my rubber line and use a oem clamp over it? I just don't want to screw up fuel.

Also on Amazon I see Dorman 800-081 Fuel Line Quick Connector for 5/16 In. Steel to 5/16 In. Nylon Tubing, Pack of 2. Any chance this would work. I don't actually have a 01 line so this would be preferred for sure.

Perhaps not relevant for most on here, but does anyone know the compatibility of the VVT and NA power steering pumps?

I'm an EPAS Engineer at an OEM and have noticed my NA saturates the pump very easily (it can even happen during oversteer correction!). I'm not sure whether the rapid weight transfer of my Supermiata big grip kit is causing this or whether the pump is now tired. My NBFL does not saturate the pump, however hard I try, though it does have softer suspension.

Basically I'm trying to work out whether the NA pump just can't cope with what I'm asking for (and so I need an NB pump?) or whether my NA pump is now tired.

Should probably be is own thread but I don't know that I've noticed difference in similarly prepped cars (all with NB racks) between the pumps. I do also know that even running the higher pressure volvo v70 electric pump it's still possible to saturate the PS but much more difficult.

My thinking behind the relevance was those swapping in a VVT (my NA is VVT swapped, but still NA rack + subframe etc) won't know whether to keep the NA pump or run the NB pump.

If it is such that my NA pump is tired and I just need to replace it fine. But if the NB pump is of a larger capacity and fits, then that would be the one to run if you have saturation issues with the NB pump, but you'd still want to run the NA pump if you don't, since a lower capacity pump should have lower losses and so eat up less power and generate less heat.

The volvo V70 pump sounds a good idea though.... If it frees up power, lets me delete a belt and doesn't saturate as easily, then it's a win win. Are there any documented installs of it? Search is returning nothing for me.

V70 pump detailed somewhere in my build thread.

Hi, It's common enough to have steering 'bind' when rotating the steering quickly, say for example, driving through a chicane quickly. A simple mod can be done to allow increased flow through the pump to resolve this issue. Below the high pressure line on the top of the PS pump is a valve body (not the valve itself as you don't want to increase the pressure). You remove this and open the orifice slightly, using a slightly larger drill bit. This will increase the flow of oil and stop this 'bind'. It will make the steering slightly lighter, but not by much if you don't open the hole too much. I've had this mod done to all my competition MX5's over the years and it works perfectly. Here a pic of the valves from the NA & NB.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0416c60560.jpg

I've been searching for a while now and can't find my answer. I've swapped a few VVT engines, but usually with a full VVT block. I'm currently swapping a VVT head onto my '99 block, how do people bolt the VVT oil hardline on to the side of the block? The banjo is straight thread, the block is 1/8 bspt. On another swap, I've put in a bspt to AN adapter and ran a oil line to the actuator on the valve cover, but I'm trying to keep the stock hard line with my engine.

Whoa. I ran an OE lower VVT banjo on a '94 block for about 18 months, and I'm running it now on a '97 block. I didn't notice any issue at all on either setup. It's sealed with a copper crush washer just like the upper banjo.