MS3 PNP and NB swap CKP/CMP
 

I have a 97 NA chassis with the NB motor. I followed this thread for conversion of the CAS to separate NB Crank and CAM sensors.

Since I will be using a MS3Pro PnP for 96-97 model, the manual shows the jumpers for J3/J4 as determining the proper setting for the CAS/Crank VR Select. I am confused whether I need to change the default for the fact that the car is running separate CKP and CMP sensors now. Please help, new to MS. Thanks.

Guys,
I am in a middle of engine wiring into early NA8 chassis.
the thing is that car have 4 wire coils connectors....If I follow this:
1994-1997 coils:
+12v:
94-97: Blue OK
99-05: Black/White OK

trigger cyl 1/4:
94-00: brown/yellow OK
01-05: brown/white OK

trigger cyl 2/3:
94-00: brown OK
01-05: black/yellow OK

ground:
94-05: black OK

I am now left with Black/White cable from both coils on NA8 harness but there is no wire left to connect it on VVt loom. I guess 4th wire is for tach signal, but do I really need it or it is controlled somehow by FM221 ?

Also I found strange that Black GND wires on VVT loom is thickier than 12V wires. Is it possible that EU harness got different color coded wires ? 12V wire on NA8 loom is thickier than grond wire.

See attached picture for refference. Any help much aprreciated
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c270093172.png

That "extra" wire is tach signal, my 95 doesn't currently have a functional tach but I've got a Racepak so it hasn't bothered me yet...

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...054ec2689.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5ce908fb1.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5c3fc095e.jpeg

To add to this, because I didn't see it elsewhere in the thread. the NA8 valve fits on a EUDM "Square-top" manifold without modification.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...73b0ddfc47.png

Every time you quote a picture, or quote the entire original post (fucking seriously?), a kitten dies. Stop doing it.

Question about 12v power. Would it be possible to tap into the extra 12v power at the modified ignitor to power the VVT solenoid? Since the power source of the ignitor is no longer being used, I figured this would be more reasonable than taping into the injector power harness unless there's something with the ignitor power source that makes it undesirable to use for this application.

Igniter power source is shared with the coils, so it's definitely still used. You could share it with the VVT solenoid if you wanted to, though.

Loom swap
 

Hi is it possible to plug the complete engine loom off a 1.8 vvt engine into the blue multiplug under the dash on a non vvt car
i have a mk2 1.8 on a 1998 that i want to install a 2001 1.8vvt into i have
the complete engine/box and wiring loom from the 1.8 vvt ready to go in, i just need to know if it will work
any help would be welcome
cheers
mat

Read the thread, that's covered and it's stupid.

hi all

I have completed the VVT swap in to my 93 MK1 all went well apart from I have no rev counter, Im using the motorsport electronics ME 221 ECU, their guide to the rev counter issue which is caused by cutting out the ignitor and wiring up coil packs
there is a solder bridge in the ECU that needs linked which I have done, then a link wire from pin 2i on the ecu (Blk/wht) wire to the blk/wht wire on the rear of the cluster which I tried but still unable to get the rev counter to work

anyone got any ideas or a work around ? or will I have to install aftermarket rev counter ?

ive been thru the entire thread and tried all that's been suggested earlier and still no luck with this Tach, can any one shed any light or other ideas how to get this working ?

I have two sets of motor mount brackets for my swap. On the left is the VVT (NB2) brackets which attach to the oil pan on the lower side and on the right is the NB1. Are the VVT much better or preferred?


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e38bd1c7ae.jpg

Unfortunately you are using an ECU that has literally no trust.
Some people have done this a few times though so they may be well enough versed to help but it is whether those particular people see this.

Hey folks. Still early into my 93 VVT swap project but, have a couple of questions that I can't seem to find the answers to with google. When it comes to fueling can I opt to use an aftermarket fuel rail like the Radium unit paired with a 1.6 fpr or would that still cause interference issues and I'm stuck going with an aftermarket fpr? At the moment I can't find a 99-00 fuel rail to save my life.

Also, my VVT motor didn't come with anything alternator related. Bracket, bolts, etc. I know the bracket between the 1.6 and 1.8 are different but, can I reuse all the mounting bolts from the 1.6 onto the 1.8?

Thanks in advance.

Thanks to the info in this thread, my son & I swapped a 2001 motor into a 1990. And it runs...! :)

But....the upper radiator hose is in the way of the intake (stock 90 brass end-tank radiator). Is this normal?

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...28ef031161.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ecc34e9c84.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3178ce2246.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...17f0657ea5.jpg

Sorry for the newb question, but i have an early NA8 with a 2 plug speeduino ECU. i note that NBs have a 3 plug ECU. would i have to change the plugs at the ECU end or get a new ECU or are all the changes done at the engine end to get everything to work?

This thread has been very helpful. I'm almost done with my swap into my 1990 and am having an issue that I hope I can get some help with.

I have everything wired as described in the first post and am using a PNP Megasquirt from DIYAutotune. I am not getting any spark. I'm reading the below diagram for the '01-05 coil plug as trigger on top, ground, 12V.

Using the test outputs in MS I see 12V across the power wire and a 5V pulse on the trigger. However, I cannot hear the coils cycle when testing and a connecting timing light will not pulse when attempting cranking. I've purchased a new set of NGK coils that are acting the same.

What am I missing here? Is there some sort of setting I need to use in MS that I am not?

EDIT: I do have RPM synch.

Thanks

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c1c4ced09a.png
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bd1658d6ec.jpg

OK, stupid issue, fixed it myself.

Decided to test one of the old coils on the bench and it worked fine. Tested one on the car providing external power, worked. Pulled the ground pin out of the tester and gave a lead to a known good ground, worked....

That means I did something wrong in the wiring... I had the VVT engine factory injector harness but not the coil harness. The harness I made to connect to the car I made the same style as the factory, splitting the engine and car halves.

Pulled the top half of the intake to get to the harness...... and see the ground that I made EXPECIALLY for the coils, so that they would have an independent ground strap to a transmission bolt, dangling on the back of the engine. Just contact was giving it a good enough ground that when I tested 'no load' everything worked, but putting the coil load made the ground fail. Hooked the ground up and coils pasted testing.

I searched and didn't see this mentioned anywhere so I figured it might be helpful for someone in the future. I haven't started the car yet, but I verified pinouts with Sav's post (#607) based on pin position. Car starts and runs with this wiring.

Engine to Transmission Plate
 

I'm swapping a 01 VVT engine into my 96 Miata that has a 6 speed trans the previous owner installed. Will the engine to transmission plate that came on my stock 96 1.8 motor work with the 01 VVT engine? I did not receive the engine to transmission plate with my built 01 VVT engine.

Thx in advance,
John