I've read this thread from start to finish because I've recently started getting smoke from my 6758 and I'm suspecting that my oil drain is not sufficiently big (that's what she said!). I have a Vibrant flange with the -10 fitting that drops straight down and then into a 45-degree -10 fitting into a bung on the oil pan. FWIW I have eliminated the stock PCV system and have a -10 fitting to a nipple on the cold side of the VC and a similar thing on the hot side - both running to a dual-port Mishimoto CC that is VTA. So I don't think that pressure in the CC is the culprit.

Once upon a time I attempted to DIY an extended oil drain by "Alumiweld"-ing a 5/8 tube onto that AGP flange that curly showed but that ended in a leaking disaster! Now, I'm looking for an extended flange similar to the one that Southeast Power Systems once sold (who seem to no longer exist) to no avail. What I see commercially available are all billet aluminum and seem to have the same ID restriction as a "regular ole" flange has.

I am contemplating something like this (not exactly this, but similar) but I'm a bit leery of clamp-on hoses so near to the hot CHRA. I had a FM kit back in the day that had a rubber oil drain and that failed quickly.

Any other suggestions?

 

Clamp on can survive just fine, especially if the correct hose is used. I'd advocate for push-loc AN hose, blue or black is good to 302f, blue is for higher (250psi) pressure, so it's not necessary. The fluid is only going to be 200-260 max, basically oil temperature. The real risk is the external heat, so some heat sleeve over the hose would be a good idea. Invest in some oetiker clamps and crimpers, makes for a low profile clamp you can slip heat reflective material over. No idea if these are any good, do your own research, but looks like there's plenty of options in the $20-30 range.

 

I love those things, for fittings that will rarely be dismantled (ie hose removed). I wouldn't put them on a radiator hose, but for the hose ends on oil lines they are the way to go.

 

One last question before I commit to this direction...currently, the oil pan has a welded in -10 bung and we all know what a bit*h it is to do ANYTHING with the pan in-car. So...if I was to replace the 45* -10 hose fitting with an AN to hose barb fitting am I just moving the problem from the CHRA, to the pan?

I REALLY don't want to have to drop the cross-member in order to get to the pan (and risk creating a new oil leak).

Sage advice requested...

 

Just use a 45* -10 push-loc fitting, it's a "barb" you can slip any 5/8" hose over, but if you use genuine push-loc hose it doesn't require a clamp.

 

Here's my current catch can setup.

It's -10 from intake to exhaust side valve cover. This creates dyno proven crank case pressure when in boost.

-6 with check valve to VTA 2nd catch can. Was routed to intake manifold to create crankcase vacuum at idle/off throttle, but changed to VTA.


Head was just refreshed with Volvo springs, new guides, couple new valves, and of course adjusted clearances.

My final issue with this turbo is GIANT clouds of smoke when warm, only when pointed down hill. Doesn't take much, I've replicated it with putting the small harbor freight jack under the rear subframe brace and jacking it as high as it'll go. Maybe a 3 or 4% incline. My guess is if I removed the drain and tipped it the same amount, that's when the oil sloshes forward and starts coming out the drain. It's not particularly low, but the front part of the pan is shallow. Friends driving behind me say it smokes some on decel, which I'm guessing is the same thing as the incline. Coming home from Sonoma my friend I was driving with said it smoked a lot coming down the mountain.

Here's a picture of my drain, which is even higher than some other's I've seen.




At this point I barely get to drive this thing, between busy schedules with work, kids, and a really boring freeway only traffic filled commute, I'm barely driving it once a month. Feel like re-hooking up the catch can to the intake manifold to provide vacuum might help, as would an electronic scavenge pump, however no turbo in my mind should puke out the turbine seal just from the drain momentarily backing up. Options are a new EFR turbo or even switch to Garrett with matching kraken downpipe.

 

Well, after all this, she's being kicked out and replaced, sold for parts or scrapped. What's interesting is if I jack the rear of the car up, which produced a LOT of smoke with this turbo, oil doesn't drain from the open fitting on the pan, even with maximum oil in the pan (engine off). I'll keep this thread updated with results. It's a $1200 gamble. Other options were either a different Kraken $500 downpipe and $800 pulsar or $2500 Garrett G25-550. And $500 Kraken downpipe.

 

Go with the Garrett dude.

 

What he said.

 

A bit late for that. New supercore is in, and hopefully this one lasts a while. Between rebuilding the head and the turbo smoking I barely put any mileage on the car this summer, and we've got a week or two of rain in the forecast, which probably won't go away until June or July.

No worries though, this'll be my last EFR, Garrett will be my next choice, probably G series or GTX2867R, the extra ~$800 makes the G-series tough to swallow, but again hopefully I'm not making that decision for a long time.



Idling while warm, no smoke, even while tilted at an angle. It's the little things that matter.

 

Thinking about doing the scavenger pump idea I saw on another thread. Have you taken a look at it, if so, are you planning on implementing it to fix the oil build up in the compressor housing?

 

As described earlier in the thread, nothing fixed the oiling issue until the turbo was replaced.

 

Ahh gotchya, I thought you were still experiencing oil buildup issues up till now.