Crimping doesn't? The last time I checked, butt connectors were not flexy.

 

Solder joints stiffen the wire. Crimps don't.

 

Hi, I am planning to put the VVT head on my 94' NA too.
I am worrying if the valve will hit my high CR piston (bought from fm).
Any Idea of how much angle will the VVT tune the cam at most?

 

I solder my crimps.

 

38*, doubled is 76* crank and you are home-free. I ran it on an 11:1 piston.

 

I see everyone here likes my swap solution....lol

 

For my 96 (but 1.6 (Euro car)- we got that over here) I just bought a complete VVT engine with the complete engine harness, instrument cluster, ecu, immobilizer unit etc...

Would that make a difference in how to wire the swap. I would preferr to use the new harness for the VVT enigne...

(I don't have my wiring schematics at hand..)
Are the Airbag and anti-lock brakes circuits separate from the engine circuit?

 

IRRC airbag is independent, abs is almost independent on the 01+ there are like 1 or two wires that go to the ecu for something.

Either way to wire it is going to take some wiring. If you use the 96 harness you'll have to run some extra wires from the stand alone to the engine and rewire the cas to do crank and cam. Or if you do the 01 engine harness you'll have to do some wiring under the dash to make dash things work along with having to switch to a pnp standalone setup for an 01 ecu plug.

 

It's not a good idea. Period.

 

O.k., O.k., O.k. - calm down... I just thought there might be a difference, if the whole ECU will be swapped over...

 

So you are buying a stand alone for a 01+ car?

 

This. You can get the uninsulated crimps and add solder, then add the gooey heatshrink (the regular stuff isn't weatherproof) and you have a perfect mechanical and electrical weatherproof connection.

Unless it's a mission critical connection though that's really too much work. I use the heatshrink butt splices and have experimented with filling them with silicone grease for extra weatherproofing. If I'm splicing more than two wires together I'll grab a larger gauge splice and crimp them all on one end, then bend the crimp against the harness and tape it up for stress relief.

Also, get a ratcheting crimper with interchangeable dies. I've got a set for ECU terminals, RJ-45, and even a set for coax somewheres.

Here is a link to more than you ever wanted to know about wiring and soldering.
Inspectors

 

It's not worth swapping the whole ECU. If you're going through the trouble of swapping a VVT motor, control it with a standalone so you get the most out of it.

 

I already have a standalone for the car - but atm it's still in my 99 because Rev hasn't finished the new Enhanced MS3...

I'll have to look how I do it, because I need bloody TUEV approval for the car over here, and beleieve me - they don't like to see things like hacked harnesses.
I will look into the swap a bit more, when I am back home from holidays and have all my wiring schematics at hand. I even thought about getting a whole car harness from ebay of a VVT car (there is one quite "cheap" now on ebay Germany) and swap it out completely... All of that only because of the TÜV...

Greets
Sven

 

Besides one little ball of random wires behind the intake manifold (and the iat) you wouldn't know that my harness was swapped, heck it looks better done than stock I just used the 94 harness that was in the car and added another 8 wires from the cab including boost control and putting the map sensor in the engine bay. Check the connector witch hunt thread and source all the connectors for the swap.

 

Leafy, my understanding is that we were/are still looking for the proper pins in that thread? Please correct me if I am wrong, I am planning on getting a vvt engine hopefully within the next week or so if everything goes to plan. If we can easily get those correct connectors needed to do the swap, then I wont worry about getting an engine wire harness with the 01.

 

You can do a complete vvt swap into an NA now with all OEM style connectors and only having to do splicing with the CAS wires and the iat from the maf wiring with the knowledge in that thread. The only NB connector in the engine bay we're missing is the VICS, which isnt standard on vvt engines, we know what it is but we cant find anywhere to buy less than 1000 of them.

 

ok cool, Looks like I need to reread that thread in more depth then.

 

I think I can tell the connectors in my sleep, believe me...
Sometimes I think I must be dreaming of them...

 

I just had a look at my wiring schematics for NA and for the 01 VVT and I have to agree to do this all the way you said. (Though I will have to check on how I get this thing TÜV approved)

Everything else would be a wiring job out of hell...

Just one more question - how do you do the ignition wiring on the 1.6 ignitor to the VVT cops...? Is there a how to anywhere?