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Old 02-17-2013, 09:38 PM   #21
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You suck at crimping. Solder introduces a stiff joint in an application where vibration is the norm, which is why even high-end motorsport harnesses are all crimped.
Crimping doesn't? The last time I checked, butt connectors were not flexy.
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:07 PM   #22
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Crimping doesn't? The last time I checked, butt connectors were not flexy.
Solder joints stiffen the wire. Crimps don't.
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:29 AM   #23
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Hi, I am planning to put the VVT head on my 94' NA too.
I am worrying if the valve will hit my high CR piston (bought from fm).
Any Idea of how much angle will the VVT tune the cam at most?
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:53 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
You suck at crimping. Solder introduces a stiff joint in an application where vibration is the norm, which is why even high-end motorsport harnesses are all crimped.

I solder my crimps.
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:56 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by oprso View Post
Hi, I am planning to put the VVT head on my 94' NA too.
I am worrying if the valve will hit my high CR piston (bought from fm).
Any Idea of how much angle will the VVT tune the cam at most?
38*, doubled is 76* crank and you are home-free. I ran it on an 11:1 piston.
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:30 PM   #26
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I see everyone here likes my swap solution....lol
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:12 PM   #27
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For my 96 (but 1.6 (Euro car)- we got that over here) I just bought a complete VVT engine with the complete engine harness, instrument cluster, ecu, immobilizer unit etc...

Would that make a difference in how to wire the swap. I would preferr to use the new harness for the VVT enigne...

(I don't have my wiring schematics at hand..)
Are the Airbag and anti-lock brakes circuits separate from the engine circuit?
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:18 PM   #28
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IRRC airbag is independent, abs is almost independent on the 01+ there are like 1 or two wires that go to the ecu for something.

Either way to wire it is going to take some wiring. If you use the 96 harness you'll have to run some extra wires from the stand alone to the engine and rewire the cas to do crank and cam. Or if you do the 01 engine harness you'll have to do some wiring under the dash to make dash things work along with having to switch to a pnp standalone setup for an 01 ecu plug.
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:29 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaphod View Post
For my 96 (but 1.6 (Euro car)- we got that over here) I just bought a complete VVT engine with the complete engine harness, instrument cluster, ecu, immobilizer unit etc...

Would that make a difference in how to wire the swap. I would preferr to use the new harness for the VVT enigne...

(I don't have my wiring schematics at hand..)
Are the Airbag and anti-lock brakes circuits separate from the engine circuit?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
I get the idea that your plan is to somehow splice the cut '01 harness into your factory harness at one point, using the VVT fusebox and 6-speed wiring. This is a terrible, terrible idea, and it will create a TON of unnecessary work. Don't do it that way, no matter how much you think it's a good idea, and no matter how much others have told you to do it that way.
It's not a good idea. Period.
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:51 AM   #30
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O.k., O.k., O.k. - calm down... I just thought there might be a difference, if the whole ECU will be swapped over...
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Old 04-04-2013, 02:11 AM   #31
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O.k., O.k., O.k. - calm down... I just thought there might be a difference, if the whole ECU will be swapped over...
So you are buying a stand alone for a 01+ car?
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Old 04-04-2013, 02:52 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
I solder my crimps.
This. You can get the uninsulated crimps and add solder, then add the gooey heatshrink (the regular stuff isn't weatherproof) and you have a perfect mechanical and electrical weatherproof connection.

Unless it's a mission critical connection though that's really too much work. I use the heatshrink butt splices and have experimented with filling them with silicone grease for extra weatherproofing. If I'm splicing more than two wires together I'll grab a larger gauge splice and crimp them all on one end, then bend the crimp against the harness and tape it up for stress relief.

Also, get a ratcheting crimper with interchangeable dies. I've got a set for ECU terminals, RJ-45, and even a set for coax somewheres.

Here is a link to more than you ever wanted to know about wiring and soldering.
Inspectors
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Old 04-04-2013, 03:21 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Zaphod View Post
O.k., O.k., O.k. - calm down... I just thought there might be a difference, if the whole ECU will be swapped over...
It's not worth swapping the whole ECU. If you're going through the trouble of swapping a VVT motor, control it with a standalone so you get the most out of it.
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Old 04-04-2013, 04:04 AM   #34
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I already have a standalone for the car - but atm it's still in my 99 because Rev hasn't finished the new Enhanced MS3...

I'll have to look how I do it, because I need bloody TUEV approval for the car over here, and beleieve me - they don't like to see things like hacked harnesses.
I will look into the swap a bit more, when I am back home from holidays and have all my wiring schematics at hand. I even thought about getting a whole car harness from ebay of a VVT car (there is one quite "cheap" now on ebay Germany) and swap it out completely... All of that only because of the TÜV...

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Old 04-04-2013, 09:42 AM   #35
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Besides one little ball of random wires behind the intake manifold (and the iat) you wouldn't know that my harness was swapped, heck it looks better done than stock I just used the 94 harness that was in the car and added another 8 wires from the cab including boost control and putting the map sensor in the engine bay. Check the connector witch hunt thread and source all the connectors for the swap.
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Old 04-04-2013, 12:24 PM   #36
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Leafy, my understanding is that we were/are still looking for the proper pins in that thread? Please correct me if I am wrong, I am planning on getting a vvt engine hopefully within the next week or so if everything goes to plan. If we can easily get those correct connectors needed to do the swap, then I wont worry about getting an engine wire harness with the 01.
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Old 04-04-2013, 12:27 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gryff View Post
Leafy, my understanding is that we were/are still looking for the proper pins in that thread? Please correct me if I am wrong, I am planning on getting a vvt engine hopefully within the next week or so if everything goes to plan. If we can easily get those correct connectors needed to do the swap, then I wont worry about getting an engine wire harness with the 01.
You can do a complete vvt swap into an NA now with all OEM style connectors and only having to do splicing with the CAS wires and the iat from the maf wiring with the knowledge in that thread. The only NB connector in the engine bay we're missing is the VICS, which isnt standard on vvt engines, we know what it is but we cant find anywhere to buy less than 1000 of them.
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Old 04-04-2013, 12:52 PM   #38
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ok cool, Looks like I need to reread that thread in more depth then.
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Old 04-04-2013, 12:55 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Besides one little ball of random wires behind the intake manifold (and the iat) you wouldn't know that my harness was swapped, heck it looks better done than stock I just used the 94 harness that was in the car and added another 8 wires from the cab including boost control and putting the map sensor in the engine bay. Check the connector witch hunt thread and source all the connectors for the swap.
I think I can tell the connectors in my sleep, believe me...
Sometimes I think I must be dreaming of them...
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:17 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
It's not worth swapping the whole ECU. If you're going through the trouble of swapping a VVT motor, control it with a standalone so you get the most out of it.
I just had a look at my wiring schematics for NA and for the 01 VVT and I have to agree to do this all the way you said. (Though I will have to check on how I get this thing TÜV approved)

Everything else would be a wiring job out of hell...

Just one more question - how do you do the ignition wiring on the 1.6 ignitor to the VVT cops...? Is there a how to anywhere?
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