A/C.... well the short answer is YES, it can be done. However, the stock K compressor will have to be spaced out a bit, because in the stock location it interferes with the steering column. Factory steering geometry > A/C.

Eventually I plan to make a kit for it, but nothing in the works now.

That's a bit generous, and it depends on the dyno. 220+ with intake, header, and tune is more like it. Throw some cams in there and 240+ all day long.

My integra made 247whp, 192wtq with a k24a2, bolt-ons, and some mild cams. I'm doing the exact same setup in the Miata, but with a bit more drivetrain loss factored in I'm shooting for 230+.

How much longer until you think you'll have more specifics and prices?

lol no.

I'm in for this, looks like I got a new project planned for next winter. See you out at Wangfest this summer. I want a ride!

What suspension are you running? What lap times are you thinking @ Gingerman ?

Sounds good man, and yes there will be plenty of ride alongs this summer.

Right now suspension is Koni yellows, GC springs (440 lb front 300 rear) and big front sway. Little more of a street/track setup, but I plan on keeping it on the car for now, as I was pretty happy with it last year.

Goal is to run the car in TTB, and I think the current track record is around 1:43, which I think I can beat with some seat time and fine tuning.

Did you happen to weigh everything before and after? As in I assume the engine might lose a little weight compared to an iron block BP.

Before the swap, it weighed about 2425 with hard top, roll bar, spare tire, and nearly a full tank of fuel.

Its definitely lighter now, but I have yet to get it on the scales. The front end did sit up a bit higher after the swap, and I plan on weighing it soon. Double the whp while making the car lighter... can't complain about that.

I've been following this build for a few months glad to see you regularly post updates. I'm leaving the Miata for a s2000 but once you get a kit out I think I would get a Miata just for the swap! Can't wait to see this hit the streets!

I wonder what ratio of people that will actually pull out their wallet and buy a kit when its out will be vs all the tire kickers in here. Because it seems like half this thread is saying they'll buy a kit, and we all know like only 2 people actually will LOL

I'm willing to pull my wallet out if it works on track and is reliable. I'm not too keen on spending a few grand to work out the kinks and be a paying beta tester.

I could afford the kit fairly easily, its the engine and associated components that will take me time to collect...

I think you are on the money about people who will actually pick up the kit and do the swap. When doing an engine swap the up front costs are way higher then a turbo. I think that scares a large segment away from doing swaps. With the turbo you can space out purchases and do things in stages.

I'm curious about the oil pan when used with Hoosiers/Aero in a track environment as well.

I'm sure there is a dry sump kit for these engines? But then we are probably getting back to the $$$ point of "Why not just LSx swap?"

But then the LSx have known oiling issues with high grip cars on the track too.

I'm guessing pretty much everything OTD is going to be about $7-8k, but it's for something that isn't proven... or you can drop ship a motor from 949/TSE and buy some IRTBs (if you're feelin' saucy) for the same money, but actually know that it will work.

I think your estimate is a little high based on what I've figured so far but I haven't put every single piece in a spreadsheet yet.

Reasons why I'd do this over a built Mazda engine:
1. A stock k-series is going to make the power of a built n/a engine. Blow the k-series and you can have a replacement from a local junkyard for 1k.
2. The k-series can make race BP engine power with basic parts.
3. As was just discussed, it's lighter.
4. I've owned/driven a ton of Hondas over the years and I honestly can't think of a single one that had a worse engine than the 1.6L that is in my Miata right now. I'd rather have the D16 out of my old CRX than this thing. :rofl:

well lucky for me, my market isn't just people in this thread. I don't need to sell a ton of these things to make it worth my while, and it will definitely take some time for interest to build, as with any product like this.

$7-8k cost for the full swap is pretty realistic, if you do the work yourself.

As far as your list, here is what it comes down to:
spend 7-8k to build a 170-180whp Miata motor
or:
spend 7-8k to swap in a stock Honda motor that makes 220-230whp, and makes 300+ when fully built, with a much better powerband and flat torque curve. and like you said, you blow it up and you pick up another longblock from a junkyard and swap it in an afternoon.

On the race track, engines are consumables. I'm usually having the most fun when those consumables are as cheap as possible.

What year (year of car) can you pull a motor out of? The reason why i ask is for emissions.

2002-2008 includes all the "good" engines that are used for swaps.