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Old 09-24-2010, 08:30 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bittetech View Post
with cylinder 1 at TDC, both intake and exhaust valves should be closed - so, lobes should be pointing outward no matter what.

also, the OP picture is from m.net's garage section, and is accurate (at least in the half dozen timing belts I've done..)

spare connector near the cas looks like the o2 sensor, which would be gone from the wideband install.

My backseat wrenching suggestion - pop the valve cover, doublecheck the cam lobes are pointed outward with cylinder at TDC. Also do a compression test.

(and the first timing belt I did, 180 degrees backwards. Wasn't until I realized I was sucking from the exhaust manifold and wondering why my intake manifold was warm that I figured out how badly I had screwed the pooch)
Exactly how can it be off 180* if all the marks are aligned properly?- Crank mark at 12 o'clock/TDC, cams with I and E correct and the cams pointing out etc...
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Old 09-24-2010, 09:35 AM   #22
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No, it was on stock coil set up with 8.5MM wires, they didn't try starting it on COPS they tried with stock ignition.

Yeah, I brought up the cams being done wrong and they keep insisting they didn't do anything wrong. I will have them take a picture of the cams and I will post it on here. Thanks for all your help guys, and that picture was for reference.
Stop taking it to this shop before they screw something else up.

YOU take off the valve cover.

YOU remove the 14mm cam gear bolts.

YOU take pictures of the cam lobes improperly aligned.

YOU then take the pictures to the shop owner and tell them that they fucked up and that you want a partial refund for work you had to do yourself because they screwed up.
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Old 09-24-2010, 12:09 PM   #23
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My car is currently been there, it has been there for 2 months. I am going over there with my own tools and pulling it my self and will take pictures.
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Old 09-24-2010, 12:19 PM   #24
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My car is currently been there, it has been there for 2 months. I am going over there with my own tools and pulling it my self and will take pictures.
Before you pull VC and stuff, if they are mentioning sporadic ignition stuff... test with oem ignition and then COPs again. I wonder if there is something funky settings wise/wiring wise running the AEM.

The COP setup is for oem wiring harness PnP. The one picture near the CAS wiring showed what looked like some custom wiring?
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Old 09-24-2010, 12:44 PM   #25
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The thing is everything worked before I started pulling stuff off my car, I never touched electrical stuff, only intake mani and the exhaust mani. That picture I showed you before was just for reference and wasn't my car. But they tried with both COPS and Stock and had the same problems, car would try and start would kinda start make a BRPP POP POP sound and that'd be the end of it. They say it's timing, it sounds like timing and the only thing changed on the car to adjust timing was the cams, so that's where my focus is currently. They did mention the spark was all over the place and sometimes sparking, sometimes not which makes me think something in the ecu/tuning. The car HAS been sitting with the battery disconnected for a year, so it IS possible I think that the AEM lost some of it's tune somehow I have read somewhere that this has happened to others.
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Old 09-24-2010, 01:27 PM   #26
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When my exhaust cam was off 120 degrees it would occasionally pop and timing would jump around and be sporadic when I tried to watch with a timing light.
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Old 09-24-2010, 01:52 PM   #27
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Update: Just called and told them basically what everyone is telling me on here; I also asked about the timing light and they said they haven't because they haven't got the car to run.
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Old 09-24-2010, 01:59 PM   #28
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lol at an ecu losing its tune just becouse it is powered down. Thats like a sd card lossing the stored info after sitting for a while in a drawer.
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Old 09-24-2010, 02:06 PM   #29
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Yeah that makes no sense to me as well: you can't just "lose part of a tune".
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Old 09-24-2010, 02:18 PM   #30
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unless they did electroshock therapy on the ecu then it stays just like any other powered down device, the aem ecu is not like a oe ecu that learns etc, and even if it was how long had the aem been learning a few days? And it ran fine at the start of those days right? This tells me the mechanics you are dealing with are idiots and you should set fire to there shop and lock them inside for failing atlife.

If you realy wanted to be mean you would have hustler run an aids train on there wives and moms and make them watch while they burn.
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Old 09-24-2010, 03:35 PM   #31
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in the actual pic of your junk your CAS isnt plugged in.
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Old 09-24-2010, 03:42 PM   #32
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Quote:
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in the actual pic of your junk your CAS isnt plugged in.
He has no COPs or plug wires either ;P
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:32 PM   #33
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i mean it will make noises if it turns over and you still have no spark... but until you get a light on it to verify spark it could be something as simple as that.

my CAS plug has one pin that seems to be a tad loose that needs to be pushed in whenever i reinstall the plug... could be that going over the harness you could plug in a sensor that isnt reading right now.

you should be able to plug the computer into the ems and verify you are getting stat sync and that rules out the ECU.

you should be able to turn the car over to verify that your ign timing between the ECU and the physical engine are the same (i know just changing the CAS oring my timing was off something silly like 9 degrees with very, very minimal CAS movement)

besides that it should be cam timing.
-check to see if you bent a valve... high lift may make your engine an interference engine.
-try checking to make sure that the cam gears are in the same orientation as specified above.
-try moving the intake cam one advanced or retarded and the same with the exhaust cam....just to try and see if it helps at this point

the hot side wont do much to the starting properties.

do you have VTPS on your throttle body, and do you have Idle air control with the new intake manifold?
i would be interested in checking out your calibration to compare your start map to mine...
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:39 PM   #34
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reading this over, go plug your laptop into the ems, set fixed timing at 10 degrees to get your timing sync'd and set your throttle range (with a VTPS). I bet you can get it to start assuming that they installed the cams properly.
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Old 09-25-2010, 09:54 PM   #35
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If you don't mind me asking, which shop did you bring your car to??
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Old 09-25-2010, 11:16 PM   #36
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One 6 Motorsports, http://onesixmotorsports.com/blog/

Yeah, Monday hopefully I get more of a word.
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Old 09-26-2010, 02:50 AM   #37
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I just don't understand how they messed up the cams and gears, it's not that hard. The "I" faces up on the Intake and the "E" faces up on the Exhaust, cyl 1 camshaft lobes are horizontal and face away from each other, and cyl 1 is at TDC. If they got that wrong then wow.

Also feud for thought I have completely lost a tune on my MS after a month of downtime, but that is a different story.

You said the car has been sitting for a year? Do you have new gas in it? Over time hydrocarbons will slowly oxidize when it reacts with oxygen in the air.
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Old 09-26-2010, 04:37 AM   #38
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Check to see if the coils are plugged in correctly and get new gas. Onesix has been around a while doubt they could have messed it up that bad.
If you need help it seems like there are more then a few active IL members that can help out.
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Old 10-01-2010, 09:24 PM   #39
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Just an update, they uploaded my original map and it just cranked and cranked never started or anything. They're going to double check the cams tomorrow, if this doesn't solve the problem the car is going into the garage until next spring. I am so sick of it at this point.

Also, I am using a 5.0 Mustang TPS sensor with a Mustang TB, if that matters?
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Old 10-01-2010, 10:21 PM   #40
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shouldn't as long as they set it up correctly. I am running a ls1 tps on my hydra.
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