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Old 10-01-2010, 11:03 PM   #41
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They haven't touched anything on my ECU, they don't mess with that stuff and refuse to touch anything in my ECU.

Would this make a difference in starting? I was under the impression that TPS was more or less an on off switch and would only matter during WOT?
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Old 10-02-2010, 12:32 AM   #42
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Have you taken off the valve cover yet. I'd bet money on that. Take a pic and post it.
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Old 10-02-2010, 12:47 AM   #43
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It is being taken off first thing tomorrow morning, I will have an update then I can bet money they installed the cams on the exhaust stroke when the engine was TDC and made the cams 180 degrees off.
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Old 10-02-2010, 05:06 AM   #44
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jothawhat just for ***** change the firing order of your coils for me, and try it. oh nvm only do this if the cams are realy fubard. i forget to move to the next page before i posted
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Old 10-02-2010, 01:51 PM   #45
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Just an update, they claim valves are closed in cylinder #1 lobes facing outboard, the cam gears match the picture I posted previously 19 teeth etc, all at TDC I am going to take pictures of this now. If the cams are installed perfectly I don't know what the hell the problem is.
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Old 10-02-2010, 02:47 PM   #46
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Look the cam gears can look perfect as in the original picture and a Cam can still be off. It is possible to put the cam gear on in 3 different places on each of the cams. So you can have the Cam Gears correct and the actual cams off by either 120 or 240 degrees.

I still say remove the cam gears from each cam. Then make sure the knock pin is pointing straight up on each cam. Then put on the cam gears correctly. If all that is done and you still have the same problems then I am at a loss. Although it could be the after market cam's knock pin is not in the right spot. Highly unlikely, but possible.
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Old 10-02-2010, 03:48 PM   #47
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Right cam lobes on cylinder 1 point right, left cam lobes point left. If this is correct, and your timing is identical to the pic earlier your timing is correct. When you post a pic I'll tell you in 3.5 seconds if it is correct.
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Old 10-02-2010, 04:19 PM   #48
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Name:  cams.jpg
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Do you have fresh gasoline??
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Old 10-02-2010, 04:22 PM   #49
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Here are the pics, tell me what you think.





Edit: I have not changed the gas out of the car, I think that will be the next step...But then again that doesn't explain the erratic spark
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Old 10-02-2010, 04:24 PM   #50
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If cylinder 1 is at Top Dead Center, then that is 100% correct. Those cams are massive .
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Old 10-02-2010, 04:39 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtothawhat View Post
Edit: I have not changed the gas out of the car, I think that will be the next step...But then again that doesn't explain the erratic spark
If you mean the popping you were getting at first, it could be there are still enough intact isooctane molecules to ignite, but not enough for a full, complete combustion. It would be good to fill with premium, run the fuel pump to circulate the old fuel out of the rail, and see if that works. If you already have a lot of old fuel in the tank, you can disconnect the fuel "in" line at the rail, run the pump, and drain a few gallons. If that doesn't work then I'm out of ideas. Good luck
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Old 10-02-2010, 04:41 PM   #52
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So here is the run down, when the first map was in which was a start up map the spark was all over the place it would backfire from the manifold and from the exhaust. They uploaded my last map into the car yesterday, very little backfiring just would crank and crank but would never start.

Massive Vacuum leak?
Bad CAS?
Just needs to be tuned, maybe too much overlap on the new cams?

These new Kelfords have about 1MM more lift than the last cams I had, and are 272/272 in duration compared to 264/264. These cams are a lot bigger and a lot more aggressive than the last ones also. I just called them once more and they stated even with the fuel in it being old it should still start.

They (the shop) keeps insisting it is electronically related, which I am starting to think after the cams look to be installed correctly. Maybe this is something that can just be corrected with a proper tune? It is supposed to be tuned the in 3 days, so I am on pins and needles.
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Old 10-02-2010, 04:55 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cococarbine3 View Post
If cylinder 1 is at Top Dead Center, then that is 100% correct. Those cams are massive .
Agreed.

Stick a long screwdriver in cylinder 1. Crank it over by hand and wait till the screwdriver reaches the top before it goes back down. This is top dead center. If at TDC your marks up top still line up it is not your timing.
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Old 10-02-2010, 05:06 PM   #54
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It is at TDC, I checked the mark on the crank and verified. Could it just be the tune? I mean, I changed the whole exhaust side, and the whole intake manifold and TB/TPS and added a massive cam?

Also, could the injectors being in the wrong order cause the car not to start? I did install the injectors and chances are they're not in the correct order. The mechanic said this wouldn't cause the car not to start, but just an idea?


EDIT: They did do a compression test and all the cylinders are very low 50-60 psi in each cylinder, does that mean a timing problem? Car seemed to run fine last year and was very strong. I started taking stuff off of it last year, he said it might be sticky rings since it was setting for a year.

Last edited by jtothawhat; 10-02-2010 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 10-02-2010, 05:40 PM   #55
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Injector order does not matter.
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Old 10-02-2010, 06:14 PM   #56
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your compression test numbers with mega cams will be crazy low since there is so much overlap.

Change the cranking out rpm to a higher rpm and check your timing compared ecu to the engine. set your tps range and then try.

Seriously.

ps, this is the first thing that is says to do in the AEM manual... so having changed both of these things i would assume this to be your issue... doing this only takes 10 minutes once your hooked up
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Old 10-02-2010, 06:30 PM   #57
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Can you explain the timing compared to the ECU and Engine a little further? Do you mean, check the timing with a gun and compare it to the ECU read out? What do you mean by setting my TPS range? Even without touching my TPS range it should still fire up, correct? I just want to make sure it is able to be tuned on the 5th. It seems that it isn't a mechanical issue, which is good news.
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Old 10-02-2010, 11:17 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowihss View Post
Right cam lobes on cylinder 1 point right, left cam lobes point left. If this is correct, and your timing is identical to the pic earlier your timing is correct. When you post a pic I'll tell you in 3.5 seconds if it is correct.
Is this the same on the 1.6L motors as the 1.8L motors? Only reason I did not suggest just looking at that was because I was not sure.

Also have you reloaded your tune from last year on the car? I do not think the bigger cams could cause the tune to be so far off that the car would not start.
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Old 10-03-2010, 03:31 AM   #59
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if your tune has a flood out mode and your ecu thinks its 100% th then no... it wont start.


Set stat timing to 10 degrees, make sure the engine says 10 degrees with the timing light,


you can change the base timing in the ECU coarse or fine. make the engine say 10 degrees with static timing at 10 degrees.
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Old 10-03-2010, 04:26 AM   #60
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Good to go, I will have them do that Monday first thing. What exactly is a flood out mode? Thanks man
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