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Absolutely amazing! I was rooting for you in-person back in February and the transmission issues really sucked. What are you plans on that front?
It doesn't seem the trans issues we've had have been power related, more just poor luck. So, I'm hoping the MV5 that just went in will be OK with the power and will play nicer with the clutch than the last trans did until I can turn my attention to a better solution there. Currently I'm thinking dog box like a G-Force or Jerico. Something that is light, can handle plenty of power, and shifts fast. Sequential is not in the budget, so this will be our peasant approach This also avoids the need to tune flat shift, which the GM ECU can't do anyways. Still, lots to figure out from scratch to make something like that work on an engine that there is no aftermarket for. It'll be a big project if/when I take it on.
It doesn't seem the trans issues we've had have been power related, more just poor luck. So, I'm hoping the MV5 that just went in will be OK with the power and will play nicer with the clutch than the last trans did until I can turn my attention to a better solution there. Currently I'm thinking dog box like a G-Force or Jerico. Something that is light, can handle plenty of power, and shifts fast. Sequential is not in the budget, so this will be our peasant approach This also avoids the need to tune flat shift, which the GM ECU can't do anyways. Still, lots to figure out from scratch to make something like that work on an engine that there is no aftermarket for. It'll be a big project if/when I take it on.
For the love of god please make the trans adapter plate a production item for whatever route you go. I want one!
Hmmm...that transmission discussion...have you considered the BMW DCT for later down the line? Certainly not lightweight though, and I am not sure on pricing/availability at your side of the pond.
Hmmm...that transmission discussion...have you considered the BMW DCT for later down the line? Certainly not lightweight though, and I am not sure on pricing/availability at your side of the pond.
I saw that guy who did that (on Miata motor I think?). It's a cool engineering project for someone who just has to have flappy paddles, but for us weight is King.
Jerico is light, cheap - used are all around, easy to re-gear, perfect for budget mindful race car.
Shifts lightning fast. No need to look further, if bang for the buck, and good solid engineering evaluation are guiding motives.
I run a Tex 101a box in the RX7. Let me know if you need any measurements or anything off it since I have it out of the car right now. I also have the name of a very good, and very reasonable builder here in the Carolinas. I think I was all in for less than what people have into a good T56.
That said, the clutchless upshifts are absolutely heavenly.
Noticed you are running what seems to be a passive pcv system with both valve covers venting to atmosphere. I've been looking into the dual valve Tracy Lewis setup which is quite the opposite of yours. Any specific reason why you went passive vs active with a quality can?
Edit: Aren't the cans also in an area of relative high pressure which would prevent good venting?
I run a Tex 101a box in the RX7. Let me know if you need any measurements or anything off it since I have it out of the car right now. I also have the name of a very good, and very reasonable builder here in the Carolinas. I think I was all in for less than what people have into a good T56.
That said, the clutchless upshifts are absolutely heavenly.
Definitely appreciated. I'm not there yet, we're looking at late spring or summer 2020 before I can turn to that. Have a couple other big projects at top of the list first. But will definitely be looking for info and recommendations when I get to this, I get the concepts of everything that goes into making a universal motorsport transmission work in a specific application, but haven't ever done it before.
Noticed you are running what seems to be a passive pcv system with both valve covers venting to atmosphere. I've been looking into the dual valve Tracy Lewis setup which is quite the opposite of yours. Any specific reason why you went passive vs active with a quality can?
Edit: Aren't the cans also in an area of relative high pressure which would prevent good venting?
To the first half of that... race car. Crankcase VTA is pretty standard for anything that doesn't have to meet emissions requirements. A recirculating setup with check valves and the like is more complication with no benefit for me. Eliminating the PCV also allowed me to open up the right bank's vent substantially, and on a race car the more venting the better.
Not sure on placement of the cans with regards to pressure. I mean yes, that area has more pressure than some other areas. Is that enough to prevent the cans from venting? Would have to test and see, but I suspect it won't be an issue.
So far on the dyno we're seeing almost zero oil in the catch cans, which is good, and we're draining a bit of water - a normal result of the water in the E85 vaporizing. Smells like straight vodka. We didn't taste it
Just skimmed the earlier posts but regarding hi boost cars on corn, we found that the catch can will get a lot of water vapor and ethanol while the engine is warming up. Once hot it drops to nothing. The setup on Vegas requires us to open a tap to drain that fluid off after warm up. Even though we have a drain back to the crankcase enough water buildup in there to prevents oil from circulating so it overflows if we run the car too hard before it's fully warmed and drained.
This is probably an anomaly related to our particular ventilation and circulation system on a BP though.
Not trying to highjack the thread to a PCV one here....
If the crank case is only passively ventilating, wouldn't it be safe to assume that you are not truly flushing the bad vapors out with fresh air as there is never any vacuum applied to the system? You would only be trapping the contaminants/VOC's that are airborne in the small amount of air that comes from the pressurization of the crank case, and not from all of the air within the crank case when vacuum is constantly drawing out contaminated air and replacing it with clean air.
Maybe this is irrelevant like you said becuase "race car" and we change the oil far more frequently than a normal car. The simplicity of a passive system would also potentially save weight, unless it has tanks like yours, which is the same end result.
I have been looking to change my catch can system on the LFX car for a while as i generate about .5oz of oil in my catch can for each 20 minute session. The below pictures are after 3 20 minute runs at Buttonwillow. Looks pretty free of contaminants from a visual point of view, and mainly just oil. Maybe due to high G loading and an inadequate baffle system in the valve cover....
Just skimmed the earlier posts but regarding hi boost cars on corn, we found that the catch can will get a lot of water vapor and ethanol while the engine is warming up. Once hot it drops to nothing. The setup on Vegas requires us to open a tab to drain that fluid off after warm up. even though we have a drain back to the crankcase enough water buildup in there to prevents oil from circulating so it overflows if we run the car too hard before it's fully warmed and drained.
This is probably an anomaly related to our particular ventilation and circulation system on a BP though.
Good to know. I've only been on the dyno so far. Drained a total of about 2-3oz of water/ethanol through a full day (and I mean full, ~10 hours) of dyno tuning. Which sounds like that's about our worst-case scenario because on the dyno we're repeatedly doing warming up, doing a couple pulls, shutting off and the car cools while making tune changes, then start back up and we're back in warmup before next pull, repeat, repeat, etc.
Does anyone have a good way to search for GM parts/numbers, specifically for the LF4 (2016+ ATS-V)? I ask because the usual places like gmpartsdirect.com will let you select the V series of that car, but when you dig in and look up individual parts, it's only showing part numbers for the non-V. Right now I'm having to call our GM parts guy at the dealer and beg him to look it up each time.
08-28-2019, 12:46 PM
This also avoids the need to tune flat shift, which the GM ECU can't do anyways. Still, lots to figure out from scratch to make something like that work on an engine that there is no aftermarket for. It'll be a big project if/when I take it on.
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