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Motorsport ECU vs Performance ECU & Engine Detonation

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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 02:44 PM
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Ok, so to change it its actually really simple, just change the values in the chart. If the values in the chart don't correspond to your ADC delete the *COLUMN, and input the new data. I believe all the ADC values are /10 and RPMs are /100. You are very close to CPU in the 1280. Not a lot of GUI there for wholesome feeling. I love it though, all these boxes in advanced mode calculate in real time when the thing is running so you can see everything! I can also completely trace calculations, no more mystery box. Everything is here.

** You can change the table name in advanced mode and it will autopopulate the UI correctly. So if you don't like the fact it says 2-bar, change its name to 2.5-bar.
Old Dec 19, 2010 | 02:54 PM
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Good stuff.

I'll tell you what may make me switch Racelogic type of traction control, because it's >$750. Racelogic it takes 4 wheel ABS sensor inputs, and has 5 levels of traction control, race, dry, wet, girlfriend, and grandma, plus off. The 5 levels are all configurable. My beef with it is it takes control over the injectors, and its drivers can't do peak and hold. The Adap could use an anolog input as a % slip ****, and one could use a 6-way rotary switch with 5 resistors to set it.

http://www.racelogic.co.uk/index.php...ontrol?start=5

Play with the software:
http://www.racelogic.co.uk/_download...ction_MKII.zip
Old Dec 19, 2010 | 03:07 PM
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Even the 440 ecu and 420 ECU has 4 wheel traction control now. Both of these ECUs support a POT adjustable slip angle and a huge variety of different configurable options.

With the 1280, you could definitely do different levels of traction control and traction control with any number of analog or digital inputs. Space shuttle level traction control. With a 1280 in the Miata you could even feed all those spare outputs to light up high current LEDs as you switched the digitals on

We did a similar thing for a rally car driver. He had a need for a POT with notches on his fuel trim. So he could ratchet up or down fuel trim quickly in his car and not run off a cliff. He did the same thing with ignition timing. Basically setting each notch at a certain degree of timing pull. A little old school, but handy if you just need it!

Really you don't even need the 1280 to do what your asking though. The 1280 goes above and beyond a firmware based system. If you asked us to we could get it to act exactly the way you want. It would also have the selectable drop downs, but a 420 with different maps would work!
Old Dec 19, 2010 | 03:16 PM
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Traction control controlling the injectors? Why does that seem like a bad idea?
Old Dec 19, 2010 | 03:20 PM
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Yea we can do spark or fuel or both, half cylinders, full cylinders. Completely configurable on the Adapt.
Old Dec 19, 2010 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Reverant
Traction control controlling the injectors? Why does that seem like a bad idea?
If you selectively cut cylinders while O2 is running closed loop, it would be a bad idea. If not, and you cut whole injection cycles, you're good.
Old Dec 20, 2010 | 01:11 AM
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I'd think you'd definitely want partial cuts though, that could be a little violent mid turn :X
Old Dec 20, 2010 | 01:17 AM
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That's why the Racelogic has 4 configurable misfire patterns - 4 levels of how much to cut power - e.g. every 4th cylinder, every 3rd, every 2nd:
Attached Thumbnails Motorsport ECU vs Performance ECU & Engine Detonation-racelogic.gif  
Old Dec 29, 2010 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB
That's why the Racelogic has 4 configurable misfire patterns - 4 levels of how much to cut power - e.g. every 4th cylinder, every 3rd, every 2nd:
I talked to Andy about this and these were his points:
  • The Racelogic system is slow to react because the time between when you inject and when the cut takes place is a full engine revolution apart. This can be a noticeable delay.
  • The Adaptronic system is very fast acting, and can be ratcheted on and off exactly when it needs to be because ignition cut and retard happen on the same engine cycle and determine power output directly.
  • The Racelogic system cannot be leaned out to reduce power safely. You have basically power control in 25% increments (1 cylinder drop is the minimum)
  • The Adaptronic system can be ignition retarded to give you EXTREMELY fine control over the engines power output. 0-100% range in 1% increments all the way to 100% based on engine retard and spark or fuel cut.
  • The Racelogic system is external and does not automatically inform the ECU that it needs to go into open loop mode.
  • The Adaptronic system is done in the engine management so the closed loop fuel system is aware its being cut. This means it will automatically kick into open loop on cut. No additional wiring needed!

That's a pretty tall list of advantages, and the E1280 gives you alot more then just traction control!
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 03:19 PM
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One difficulty I see is setting up an external **** for "grandma / girlfriend /wet / dry / dorifto"

The Racelogic btw can be setup to drop every 6th/7th cylinder whatever (even on a 4 cyl).
However there are only 4 or 5 cut patterns you can set up afaik.
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 04:26 PM
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I just set up the MS3X last night for launch control (it doesn't yet support traction) and you can pick the X and Y for "cut X sparks from Y events" as well as fuel cut rpm independently. It works nice at cut 6 of 7 for me--a 4 cyl like jason says.

It also has a "variable launch" that lets you use a 0-5V input (say, via a pot) and lets you pick the 0 and 5V RPM limit. Why can't you do that for grandma/dorifto?
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by y8s
I just set up the MS3X last night for launch control (it doesn't yet support traction) and you can pick the X and Y for "cut X sparks from Y events" as well as fuel cut rpm independently. It works nice at cut 6 of 7 for me--a 4 cyl like jason says.

It also has a "variable launch" that lets you use a 0-5V input (say, via a pot) and lets you pick the 0 and 5V RPM limit. Why can't you do that for grandma/dorifto?
Yea, a pot would be easiest. You could use an indexable pot for definite positions. You should be able to load presets into the software with if/and conditions and setup each individual mode. Not too complex I wouldn't think, but I would definitely be there to help with the element setup if you needed it.

My brain has been destroyed just recently by creating 3D models and their corresponding 2D drawings from excel codes and functions automatically for engineers that need to build things like OSHA handrail. I spent about 2 months building nothing but if(,,) code and thankfully the element builder in the 1280 software works almost exactly like this. If it can be "if thened" I'm pretty sure I can make it happen.
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 05:51 PM
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if("if, then", happen) ?
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 05:54 PM
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if(condition,if true,if not)
Old Jan 5, 2011 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by TravisR
So specifically, I know there are quite a few 400WHP cars out there. What are you doing to keep the motors together? Are you looking at EGT, WBO2 per cylinder? I've tuned quite a few, but only one in that power range and it made me a little nervous to be honest. At ~400 there is just something uneasy about the whole tuning process. On most tunes I can send them away with full confidence, yes you will enjoy this car for thousands of miles and have no problems. On that 400whp engine?? Who the hell knows? Cylinder pressures are off the map, EGT's are searing even with good tuning, and usaully they are turning a fair amount of RPM.

Any insight would be appreciated.
400hp on a Miata motor is very easy.... and is common for most import 4 cylinders with forced induction. Lately I have been playing with the Honda K20 (much better engine that ours) and I have say that 500 is normal for stock untouch engines.

Keep your timing conservative and the knock away and you will be just fine. You will need forged pistons and rods in the Miata motor to do 400hp.
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