Ugh, more info I left out.

Currently, my factory coolant temp sensor IS NOT FUNCTIONING. I use an aftermarket gauge with a sensor in the upper rad hose and the factory sensor is zip tied to the firewall.

Coolant temps for these pulls were in the 200-210* range

 

And this coolant sensor is connected to the MS, how?

 

 

I was once told that it wasn't necessary to have it operational. Context clues tell me this is not the case and having my MS see a proper, TRUE coolant temp is now on my list of "important **** I need to take care of so that my car doesn't suck."

 

AIT maybe, which doesn't change fuel by a huge amount and most sane temperatures, as long as you tune for it's default -40 reading

Coolant though, has a lot to do with warm up enrichments (were they ever off?) and there's a whole coolant related fuel page to tune.

 

Coolant sensor is definitely needed by the MS to provide the correct amount of fuel. I would get that sensor fixed and hooked up ASAP.

 

I ordered a new temp sensor a while back when a got a wild hair to "tidy up" all my lose ends but once I remembered that the one I had was just zip-tied in the bay because there was no available bung for it it got put on the "next motor" list along with a reroute.

I'll order the reroute **** today.

 

then what I suggest is actually calibrating your CLT sensor so the MS *thinks* your motor is warm so it doesn't inject an extra 22% of fuel during a dyno pull.

I also suggest your fix your AIT and BRO corrections that just so happen to be cancelling each other out. your AIT is pegged at -7% fuel and your BARO is pegged at +7% fuel.

 

Yukon hose and Kia neck ordered, I'm gonna fix it.

Trying to read up on AIT and BRO.

 

Bro.

 

These "rest of the story" threads crack me up.

 

Hey, I don't know **** about this stuff. I've read here and there but most of it is over my head.

Either way, I'm happy to entertain.

 

Well it's not that entertaining, you aren't even fighting with us and telling us that we don't know **** and that your tooner is the best in the world and that we should stop being pussies and race you.

 

oh and btw, im gay, if that matters

 

Well then **** you.

Eat a dick, queer.

 

For serious:

Yukon hose just showed up, I'll have the Sephia neck on Tues. Still need to figure out sensor mounting as I'm way too cheap (poor) to order up a nice Begi unit. :(

Copied Brain's MAT correction table here (Man I hope that's what you were referring to) but haven't burned yet, don't have the car with me.

 

Don't order a BEGi unit, you'll regret that decision if you want to change your thermostat out. Save up and buy the M tuned neck and remote thermostat.

That MAT table should help, but between correcting that and the warm up with a new water temp sensor, expect to completely retune your VE map or ad a lot of fuel.

 

That's not a big deal, we've decided that (obviously) this setup and tune need a lot of work. I was going to put some of it off for the new setup next year (reroute) but clearly I need to take a step back and asses my current setup and tune before even considering changing everything up again.

Spoke with the dyno operator yesterday; $150/hr to rent it out... Gonna have to take him up on that for sure once all this **** is ironed out.

 

that's a bit pricey for a dynojet.

 

Kind of sort of off topic but after looking at that first log it looks like your AE is off. When you blipped the throttle on the first log. it goes lean at about 24% TP probably has nothing to do with your power band but Id look into it.