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Old 04-16-2012, 11:34 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redturbomiata View Post
so open tours of said lab?
It's not an open lab for regular tours but we just had a handful of guys come though. If we have interested people we may be able to setup another visit.
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Old 04-16-2012, 11:43 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
this community is a few things:

1. cheap

2. skeptical

3. relentless in its mockery

if you can get past those things, most of us are good people with a significant level of technical skill and understanding.
I would go ahead and enumerate number 4 as you had it listed:
4. Most of us are good people with a significant level of technical skill and understanding.

List is quoted for truth.

And for what its worth Dave, arguing with Blaen99 is always pointless, lol.
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Old 04-16-2012, 11:47 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superdve View Post
Just be sure to take a good look at the strap/electrodes after a pull and sneak up on boost. I know the plug is cold and all but I always check to be sure it's cold enough.

Also there is nothing wrong with the AR3923 racing plug but it might not be as cold as you want.
Will do, and thanks. Ordered a set, hopefully they'll be in soon.
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Old 04-17-2012, 02:15 AM   #104
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Back on the oil filter topic.
I had a fram filter fail, it split the cover from the plate. Lucky for me it was in my garage right before I was going to change the oil.
Ps. It was on a ford ranger
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Old 04-17-2012, 03:17 PM   #105
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Originally Posted by blaen99 View Post
Okay, you've got my interest now. Where are your labs located?
They lab is located in Perrysburg Ohio, 60 miles south of Detroit. I would be more than happy to host a group there from this forum or any other anytime you have time to visit. Or, I will even pick you up at the airport and show you our enineering labs one on one as well. The doors are open and we invite you in.
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Old 04-17-2012, 03:21 PM   #106
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Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
Just find some curves. Nobody will keep up with you.

I dig the green Dart though. Have a '66 Sport Fury in the garage.

We crave real data here. Of course, that stuff tends to be proprietary, but I would love a repository of real test data.

The other thing I'd like to know . . . does anyone make their filters in the USA? It would be worth extra to me to buy those -- all else being equal.
Ya think? Apparently yuou havent ridden in a CTS-V. Its kind of like a Miata, with power and brakes, and room for your friends......
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Old 04-17-2012, 03:36 PM   #107
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Ya think? Apparently yuou havent ridden in a CTS-V. Its kind of like a Miata, with power and brakes, and room for your friends......
and it only weighs about one ton more
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Old 04-17-2012, 04:10 PM   #108
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Ya think? Apparently yuou havent ridden in a CTS-V. Its kind of like a Miata, with power and brakes, and room for your friends......
I own a G8 GT (with aftermarket wheels and Michelin Pilot SS tires, tune, headers . . . you get the picture). It is almost exactly like a CTS-V.

Doesn't hold a candle to Miata in the curves. Frankly, very few cars do.
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Old 04-17-2012, 04:33 PM   #109
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I own a G8 GT (with aftermarket wheels and Michelin Pilot SS tires, tune, headers . . . you get the picture). It is almost exactly like a CTS-V.

Doesn't hold a candle to Miata in the curves. Frankly, very few cars do.
The brembo brakes and magna ride shocks make the cts-v very different than the G8. That said, I love watching the Miata's smoke the much more expensive cars at the local track, they are awesome. They remind me of my race kart, speed on the str8's just doesnt matter if you can't carry that speed through the corners. Love seeing them get passes on the straightaways only to see the Miata's show them taillights on the corner exit.
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Old 04-18-2012, 02:10 AM   #110
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Originally Posted by motorking View Post
The brembo brakes and magna ride shocks make the cts-v very different than the G8. That said, I love watching the Miata's smoke the much more expensive cars at the local track, they are awesome. They remind me of my race kart, speed on the str8's just doesnt matter if you can't carry that speed through the corners. Love seeing them get passes on the straightaways only to see the Miata's show them taillights on the corner exit.
Jay's V is fun to thrash around because no matter how bad I punish it, I know that he will do worse! Those 120 degree coolant temps and 6,000 rpm powershifts highlight the durability of the LS1 and that's with a Fram XG filter even. All jokes aside a used 04-07 V is a pretty nice car.
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Old 04-21-2012, 05:03 PM   #111
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Yo, Superdve/Jay, what gap should I run on these XS3922's that you recommended?
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:18 PM   #112
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Originally Posted by blaen99 View Post
Yo, Superdve/Jay, what gap should I run on these XS3922's that you recommended?
Blaen,

If you are running coil packs I'd suggest .028-.030, you may be able to get away with .032-.033 with COP coils as they should have a bit more saturation time depending on the circuit that's controlling them. I'm sure you know this but be careful when gapping to not put any pressure on the small diameter centerwire if you need to open the gap. Finewire plug designs weld the Iridium rivet to a nickel center conductor and side pressure can damage the rivet. So you want to gently pry the sidewire with the "gap opener" feature on your gapping tool vs. some guys who wedge something in between the center and side electrode. To tighten the gap you can rap the sidewire on a hard surface like a butcher block work bench. FWIW, I suggest using a roundwire gauge for accuracy if you have one.

If your setup is big boost, (>20psi), and you need a "racier plug" we have our wild AR3910X's we can send you to try but those are non suppressor and may give you some unwanted EMI.

Dave

Opening gap with cheapie tool. We suggest not using it for too much else as it can give inaccurate readings

Attached Thumbnails
Oil filter Cut away- Fram and Wix-opening%2520gap%2520cheapie%2520tool.jpg  

Last edited by superdve; 04-21-2012 at 07:28 PM. Reason: Added gap opener picture
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Old 04-21-2012, 08:19 PM   #113
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Great, I'll do that! Thanks!
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Old 04-21-2012, 09:30 PM   #114
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BMW/MINI filter not-cutaway:

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Old 04-22-2012, 03:55 AM   #115
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Any thoughts on a fleece filter versus a paper filter?
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:35 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superdve View Post
Blaen,

If you are running coil packs I'd suggest .028-.030, you may be able to get away with .032-.033 with COP coils as they should have a bit more saturation time depending on the circuit that's controlling them. I'm sure you know this but be careful when gapping to not put any pressure on the small diameter centerwire if you need to open the gap. Finewire plug designs weld the Iridium rivet to a nickel center conductor and side pressure can damage the rivet. So you want to gently pry the sidewire with the "gap opener" feature on your gapping tool vs. some guys who wedge something in between the center and side electrode. To tighten the gap you can rap the sidewire on a hard surface like a butcher block work bench. FWIW, I suggest using a roundwire gauge for accuracy if you have one.

If your setup is big boost, (>20psi), and you need a "racier plug" we have our wild AR3910X's we can send you to try but those are non suppressor and may give you some unwanted EMI.
Well, ----.

My AFR's leaned out by close to 1 point with the change in back to back tests (BRK6E vs. your plug). Is this intended?

Color me impressed if so. Granted, this is just idle, but still. Color me impressed.
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:48 PM   #117
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How to cut open an oil filter.


I bought a inexpensive oil filter cutter from Ebay ($38 Shipped)

It is a decent enough tool, simple solid design, with rollers.

Twisted 3 times and the filter can was cut.



It will leave a sharp edge on both the can and the filter mount.



I cut the oil filter that came on a 1.8L BP Mazda engine

Mighty M4612

It has a rubber anti drain back.

I lifted the filter cartridge from the mounting plate.
Nasty as all get out.


Looking around it, I noticed a large rip to the core, This allowed unfiltered oil through the engine.



Also looking into the folds I saw metal flake


Taking my pocketknife, I cut the filter media to remove the tin end caps.


Now the tear on both sides of the crimp.



It also has a tin perforated core.


Now, unrolling the filter media, and looking at the bottom of the pleats, I can see just how much metal flake there is.


At this point bearing damage would be a concern.

The whole engine should be pulled down and all oil galleys plugs and jets cleaned and inspected for metal debris in the oil galleys.
Attached Thumbnails
Oil filter Cut away- Fram and Wix-dscf6129.jpg   Oil filter Cut away- Fram and Wix-dscf6130.jpg   Oil filter Cut away- Fram and Wix-dscf6133.jpg   Oil filter Cut away- Fram and Wix-dscf6136.jpg   Oil filter Cut away- Fram and Wix-dscf6134.jpg  

Oil filter Cut away- Fram and Wix-dscf6143.jpg   Oil filter Cut away- Fram and Wix-dscf6139.jpg   Oil filter Cut away- Fram and Wix-dscf6140.jpg  
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Old 04-24-2012, 10:26 AM   #118
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Bogus - I really do appreciate your photo-taking efforts but am compelled to offer some constructive criticism. Check the setting on your camera and make sure it's in the "auto" mode when the camera is more than 6" away from the subject and in "macro" mode when the camera is closer than 6" from the subject.

I think that will help with the out of focus pictures.
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:01 AM   #119
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The camera was in macro/flower mode on auto setting
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Old 04-24-2012, 10:27 PM   #120
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I find it pretty funny that these purolator commercials are hitting the TV lately.

Almost feels like they've been watching or something. lol

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