Here's some quick snaps during my build.... Let me know what you have in mind, and we can discuss options.

 

Back to what this thread is about.....
I am so interested in seeing this series become a reality.
It is this example wholly on my reasoning for my current build.

 

I want to cut two of those slots on the passenger side of the rad opening for my oil cooler. Then, drop my **** off for paint with the new hood and continue to win at life.

 

Mine will have to be enlarged depending on the oil cooler I finally decide upon.
Matt Andrews is my inspiration, and his car is the perfect example.

 

Ray_sir_6 and Machismo, where did you get your hood pins? Somone drilled the holes on my brother's hood and then took the pins off.

Speaking of, does anyone in DFW with a good hood, want to trade for a perfect hood with hood pin holes professionally drilled.
Hit me up.

 

Vatozone....I'm too cheap for the Sparco units when it comes to just a pin.
I tried the flush mounts at first, but the curvature of the hood at that location was a no go. Prolly operator / installation error.

 

Newbsauce has a set of the aerocatch flush mounts that look pretty good installed. Just don't buy the sparco flush mounts...he did and bought a new windshield along with his aerocatches.

 

nah they were Bride ones that failed...

 

Really? I thought I remembered them saying sparco...Guess you've seen it a lot more than me though.

 

I want the kind that have the swing pin on them.
I'm not pickey I'm just a tipical guy who wants to fill the hole.LOL

That and I don't want a wire on the paint, or a kid taking off with the pins.

 

look into aerocatches then, you can lock them so noone can open your hood w/o they key either.

 

Thanks

 

should I get pins for my FM hood? Why is the standard latch not good enough? I'll get those groovy, black flush mount looking ones.

 

Supposedly it's not good enough for fiberglass or CF hoods, I've never seen a stock latch fail though FWIW. The black flush mount ones are the aerocatches mentioned above, just don't get Bride one's

 

I have still have my OEM latch as well.....never can be too safe. I've seen a few failures from pins and I'm not that hardcore for weight abaitment.
If were just a skinned panel w/o hinges, I would be all over the Aero's and a few more of 'em.

 

This thread is pretty much hijacked.

 

Remember that huge hole in the top of mine? I overheated during one session at BW. I'm in the market for a vented hood and a reroute.

 

Reroute is actually a free mod. It requires only the cheapest of supplies and some super common tools:
-a smallish wrench
-pliers/screwdrivers for hose clamps
-some of that super gray gasket sealant stuff
-a big length of radiator hose
-some wire to run the temp sensor to the front of the engine
-some hose for the heater core
-a barb fitting and some caps for the little thermostat stalk hoses

That's it.
A) remove thermostat and heater core/temp sensor housings
B) peel back sheathing on wire and clip the temperature sensor wire. Splice in some wire to make it long enough to reach the front of the engine bay
C) Put thermostat and thermostat housing on back of engine, seal with gasket sealant. When it is firmly attached, route radiator hose from there to radiator. The fit under the throttle body is tight but don't be a ***** about it. It's definitely doable.
D) Put temp sensor housing at front of engine, sealing the surface with gasket sealant. That gray stuff is awesome. Attach your super-long wire that you extended from teh back of the engine bay to the sensor. Zip tie the wire off to the side so it doesn't snag on anything.
E) attach heater core hose to temp sensor housing.
F) detach both of the little hoses on the "thermostat stalk" that no longer houses the thermostat. Use the little hose barb to connect them to each other. This will cause the pump to draw water directly through the intake manifold from teh back of the engine, right next to the new thermostat location. Seal off both of the stalk hose barbs.
G) You are done, have a beer.

This is my setup and it seems to work just fine so far. Engine heats up promptly and doesn't overheat even with both fans disabled.

 

Forgive me if this makes any sense, but with all this talk about limiting the boost to keep things even, I havent heard a damn thing about tire or wheel size restrictions.

ways to edgeup/cheat the competition...

LSD/gearing choices
clutches
tire selection (DOT slicks/shaved street tires)
rim selection
"creative" weight removal
uprated bushings
uprated brakes
painted CF body panels
heavily decked head and or block


powdercoated stock color but uprated:
struts/shocks
sway bars

just a few thoughts. either way, creating rules for a series will bring out the most ingenuitive people. Vague rules make for vague control.

 

That on top of the fact that "limiting boost" one is hard to do...you can always turn the **** on an MBC when no one is looking, plus different turbos can make drastically different numbers on the same boost..You would almost have to have the same mani-dp-turbo-wastegate setup and ban any form of boost control being on the car period.